Mar 18

Getting away from it all in Queensland

by in Australasia, Outdoors, Sustainable Tourism, World Travel Blogger

When writer and entrepreneur, Martin Dunford and his family went travelling round Australia, they discovered a haven of natural beauty in the heart of Queensland, Australia.  In our latest World Travel Blogger article, he describes some of the highlights of that trip.

Before we arrived at Rose Gums, Queensland we had thought there was only one kind of kangaroo. In fact there are several and, as Peta has promised, we are lucky enough to see several musky rat kangaroos the morning after our arrival at the rainforest.  They emerge from the bushes to feast on the corn she has put out for them, before being chased off by the omnipresent brush turkeys that roam everywhere around the compound. Afterwards, we sit on the terrace and watch hoards of rainbow lorikeets fight it out for food – a gloriously colourful sight that keeps my daughters rapt with attention.

Rainbow lorikeets - Rose Gums Retreat

Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat is an eco-friendly place in the heart of the rainforest in tropical Queensland's Atherton Tablelands – a mixed highland area an hour inland from Cairns that varies from dense rainforest to green rolling pasture to bare outback sprinkled with banana groves and orchards. Peta and John bought the 230 acres that makes up Rose Gums almost 20 years ago, replanting much of its indigenous plant life and building themselves a dream home in the process, the first of the stunning treehouses that hide among the trees at Rose Gums.  It's beautifully done, the houses comfortable yet rustic and close up to nature. They're also well spaced out; indeed you could come here and barely notice any other buildings at all.

Peta proves to be a knowledgeable and genial host, pointing out the best walks and chances to spot wildlife in this Queensland area. We are on a quest to spot platypus, and go off in search of them our first morning, following a well-marked path down to a creek, where we swim in crystal clear waters below overhanging trees.

Martin at the creek

We are disappointed on the platypus front – not just that morning but every morning; but perhaps we had been a little spoilt on a previous trip, when we witnessed a multitude of the little critters happily splashing about in a highland creek at the fabulous Yungara park to the south of here.

No matter: the rain-forest walk we do is gorgeous , the canopy alive with life and movement as we tread carefully along the path like pith-helmeted explorers of old, desperate for a glimpse of a snake or exotic birdlife.

Tree canopy

We catch a glimpse of a large grey monitor lizard on the path in front of us, but he's gone in a flash as he clocks our approach; down by the water there are turtles and enormous frogs, and something slithers up the bank as we approach – who knows what? We shush each other and the excitement builds as our eyes try to pierce the dense forest undergrowth and see deep into the muddy waters; but as Peta reminds us, although Aussie wildlife is fabulously abundant, most of it was hunted by the Aboriginals for centuries, some species to the brink of extinction, and most creatures don't hang about long enough to discover whether we're friend or foe.

Rose Gums Retreat, Australia - by Martin Dunford

Our lodge is, in any case, reward enough, its balcony facing a magnificent stage-set of forest birdlife, which we fixate on over drinks early evening, accompanied by the constant call of the well-named whipbird and chattering kookaburras. We never see either of these, but the host of other birdlife more than make up for it – honeyeaters of myriad colours and varieties feasting on the flowers that overhang our treehouse, blue-chested drongoes, red-faced king parrots and shrieking white cockatoos – the unruly hooligans of the rainforest – before the cicadas raise the volume to number 11 just after dark – an extraordinary loud and rhythmic sound that we mistake at first for a kitchen alarm.

The immediate area is full of interest, too – we swim in the clear waters of volcanic Lake Eacham, afterwards spotting the amethystene pythons that bask on its banks, snakes that we spot from a boat-trip on nearby Lake Bureen, along with forest dragons, erect and alert on overhanging tree branches, more turtles, ranks of cormorants arranged on logs, and big black eels which emerge from under the boat hoping for scraps of food.

Australian waters

Afterwards we repair to the balcony of the elegant boathouse for a cream tea of scones of jam – a peculiar juxtaposition you could only find in Australia. Nearby are one-horse towns like Yungaburra and Malanda – large villages, really, which cluster around vintage hotels, and where we come across the extraordinary sight of Yungaburra's magnificent Curtain Fig  – actually a majestic turpentine tree, strangled by the tendrils of a strangler fig years ago, in its full triffid-like glory.

The platypus remain resolutely in the burrows, but who cares? We have our treehouse to go back to with its glorious views and, as we stroll up to our front door, our resident big-bottomed bandicoot scuttles by in shy, silent greeting ….

Martin Dunford is one of the co-founders and the former publisher of Rough Guides, and now works as a writer and independent consultant and investor. Find out more about his digital travel busines Cool Places.

Other articles you might like about Australia include Sunrise at Uluru, Aboriginal Bush Tucker Walk and Best Beaches around Sydney.

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7 Responses to “Getting away from it all in Queensland”

  1. From Zoë Dawes:

    What a magical place to escape the hurly burly … Looks like Martin managed to see a lot of wild-life in spite of not catching a glimpse of the quirky duck-billed platypus 😉

    Posted on March 18, 2013 at 12:45 pm #
  2. From Linda ~ Journey Jottings:

    The variety of wildlife in Australia really is wonderful!

    The whip bird that Martin talks of is a fairly small, hard to spot little fella, but the full whipping sound is made by both the male (the initial whooping rising sound) and then answered by the female (with the two whip whip sounds) at the end 🙂

    Posted on March 30, 2013 at 11:29 am #
  3. From Zoë Dawes:

    Thanks for that info Linda. Must say, having visited Australia for the first time last year I do hanker to revisit. Martin’s article gives yet another reason to go to your fascinating country.

    Posted on April 1, 2013 at 11:19 am #
  4. From Charli l Wanderlusters:

    We had a wonderful time explore Queensland last year. Our favourite spots were hiking through Blackdown Tablelands National Park, digging for sapphires in the outback town of Emerald and scuba diving on the Great Barrier Reef. There’s just so much to discover and such a wealth of environments to explore. The Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat looks spectacular. Luxury in comparison to our ageing motorhome!!

    Posted on April 6, 2013 at 7:10 pm #
  5. From Zoë Dawes:

    Thanks for sharing your tips – definitely lots to see and do in that part of Queensland by the look of it …

    Posted on April 7, 2013 at 10:33 am #
  6. From Kate Dircksen:

    Exactly what is the most important snake, I would like to find out for homework?

    Posted on November 20, 2013 at 9:58 pm #
  7. From Zoë Dawes:

    Hi Kate. I think the deadliest snake in the Northern Territory is the King Brown. There’s also the ‘Death Adder’ and Western Brown. We saw the King Brown in Crocosaurus Cove Reptile area but didn’t see any snakes whilst out in the Bush, thank goodness! Hope this helps with your homework. 🙂

    Posted on November 22, 2013 at 9:43 am #

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