Quirky Traveller's Tales

Author Barry McCann is a writer and expert on the horror genre, tradition and folk tales.  He appears regularly on BBC Radio sharing quirky tales of mystery and imagination in Cumbria and Lancashire.  Here are some of his favourite stories from the Lake District.

The shires and counties of this country are rich in their local folklores. Legends and superstitions shaped by the local landscape and centuries of colonisation by Teutonic, Scandinavian and Norman settlers with the traditional legends accompanied their cultures. The Lake District is no exception. Its large, imposing landscapes have nurtured stories of giants, while more hidden corners are a breeding ground for sightings of elves and fairies. And the ancient stone circles across the region add a further mystique to local superstitions. Yes, witches and ghosts walk here too.

You can already enjoy a literary tour of the Lake District courtesy of our very own Quirky Traveller, but how about supplementing with a folklore tour of the region. Dare you walk Souter Fell where, in 1774, Daniel Strickland witnessed a ghostly army of Jacobite troops marching north. Or take a libation in Kendal’s Angel Inn where, in 1745, attempts by marauding Scots to kidnap a child were thwarted when an angel appeared between them and their intended victim.

For the really brave, try counting the rocks that make up the stone circle that is Long Meg and her Sisters. Legend hath it that they were originally witches performing an infernal ritual when locals used the power of the saints to turn them into stone. It is said if you count the stones, you will never arrive at the same number twice. But if you do, beware! For that will cancel the spell, releasing Long Meg and the girls to make their mischief again.

On a lighter note, I have enjoyed an expedition to Thirlmere Lake and contemplated the rock known as Clark’s Loup. So called, as this was where the suicidal Clark leapt to his watery grave after his dutiful wife advised him that drowning was far more pleasant than hanging himself. A preferred leap can be enjoyed at Derwentwater, where the sister of the wicked Lord Derwentwater chose death over capture. Known as Lady’s Rake, she is said to have jumped from the precipice after setting fire to her brother’s castle and destroying his ill gotten gains. Either that or she escaped to London, depending which version of events one prefers.

If  traversing the Shap Fells, then be vigilant of the shadowy figure of a giant upon a mighty steed, galloping like the devil. For this is none other than Uther Pendragon, father of King Arthur. Unlike his heroic son, Pendragon was a cannibalistic tyrant who founded his kingdom in Mallerstang. Heaven would not admit his wicked soul, perhaps neither would Hell. For he now rides the Fells, perhaps in search of Pendragon Castle; once the seat of his power but now a scanty ruin. But beneath its foundations there is said to lie a great treasure. The sleeping King Arthur and his Knights awaiting their call to battle, perhaps?

These are but a few of the many legends that colour the Lakes; many more await uncovering. So why not take yourself on a magical mystery tour of this lovely area and discover some for yourself?

This article is sponsored by Barry McCann, writer, editor and broadcaster, specialising in short stories, reviews, features, talks and, more recently, travel writing.  Barry is the editor of Parnassus, MENSA Art & Folklore Correspondant on BBC Radio Cumbria. Follow him on Face Book and read his Blog ‘Writing Without Tears’

If you enjoyed this article you may like to read another of Barry’s quirky posts ‘Going Underground in Seattle’ and ‘The Padstow Obby Oss’

Picture the scene…middle-aged couple, two monsters children, busy working lives, and never any time to be together. Not even date nights.  Such is my life.  And then … a surprise birthday gift. Vouchers for GilpinLodge, a luxury country house hotel in the heart of the Lake District.  My mind was made up.  No flitting this on just dinner, oh no, I wanted the full Monty and all parents’ dream, a childfree night away!

Needless to say, it took flipping ages to find anyone stupid willing to have our darlings for just one night’s sleepover. So six months later, we’re booked, sleeping bags and pyjamas delivered (not for us) and we’re outta here!  To make things even better, we received a call earlier from Gilpin to say we’d be getting an upgrade to a junior suite. Oh the excitement. So what if the journey was only 30 minutes from home? We still felt like tourists.

There was no gleaming glass-fronted behemoth when we arrived. Just a secluded house set back behind the mature garden. This was far from a typical overnight experience. It felt like someone’s home.  A grand one, mind.  We were welcomed and checked in though it didn’t really feel like checking in. The suite was a delight. A massive bed that was just asking to flopped upon – so we did. A large living area with French windows looking out, not just at countryside, but at … llamas.  Not what you’d expect in the Lake District. But that’s Gilpin all over. Uniqueness and details. We made tea and were happy to find delicious homemade biscuits to go with it. Feet up and just relax.

A thought came to us. Best work up an appetite for that evening’s gastronomy. So off we zoomed down to Bowness and the Old England Hotel and its spa and pool. A quick swim, a pause to admire the view of Windermere from the water plus time in the steam, dry heat and ice rooms. Then it was back to our suite for a sleep. All this relaxing was exhausting. Or perhaps it was just our bodies telling us something?

We dressed smartly for dinner and made our way smartly to the bar for an aperitif. The bar was unstuffy and has an unusual walk-in wine cellar so guests can explore their ample and tempting collection. In the past I’ve felt a bit self-conscientious in similar hotels. Not here.  Here we felt at ease. It was like being with friends. We made our choices and treated ourselves for the recommended wine with our courses. Never done anything like that before; naughty but hopefully nice.

The dining room was spacious so we didn’t have to whisper for privacy or shout to be heard. And the meal was heavenly… Gilpin’s chef has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants previously so we knew we were in for some great flavours – Cumbrian rarebit soufflé, Celtic scallops, local pheasant, wild mallard – all mouthwatering. With wines to match, expertly poured and explained by sommelier Ziggy. We could have finished the evening with coffee and petit fours in the comfy lounge. Instead we climbed under our duvet and slept like logs!

We woke late, no little feet bothering us this morning. Breakfast was magnificent as expected and we were sad to check out. But for that shortest of breaks, the weight of the world was no longer on our shoulders and we floated off to the car park without a care, ready to face modern life once again.

 Alex McCoskrie is a freelance marketer specialising in tourism. Visit his website AMPM Professional Marketing and follow  him @AMProfMktg on Twitter

“The first thing which I remember as an event in life was being taken by my nurse to the brow of Friars Crag on Derwentwater.”  Victorian art critic and philanthropist John Ruskin described this view as one of the three most beautiful in Europe.   Friars Crag is a one of the most popular places to visit in the Lake District, and it really is easy to understand why.  It’s a small and perfectly-formed promontory floating out above one of Cumbria’s loveliest lakes, Derwentwater.

A short, easy stroll to Friar’s Crag from Keswick town centre takes only 15 minutes; no problem for pushchairs and wheelchairs.  Wandering by the shore, huge swans demand to be fed and graceful old rowing boats wait to be taken out for a ride. The Crag may be familiar to Arthur Ransome fans as Darien, the children’s lookout point in ‘Swallows and Amazons’. It’s said to have got its name because monks used to leave from this point to get to St. Herbert’s Island where a hermit lived. There are old trees and a seat to give protection when it rains.  On a bright day the sunlight glitters across to lake in a shattering of diamonds.

There are stunning views across the lake to Derwent Isle, once owned by the very eccentric 18^th century entrepreneur Joseph Pocklington, who used to hold mock battles and horse races on rafts around the lake.

Regular ferries taking passengers around the lake; Brandlehow Woods can be seen across the water; it was the very first property acquired by the National Trust in the Lake District. Canon Rawnsley, vicar of Crosthwaite and one of the founders of the National Trust, ensured that this area was not developed. On his death in 1920 Friars Crag, Lords Island and Calf Close Bay were given to the Trust as his memorial. A plaque, unveiled by Ruskin, commemorating this is set into a wall beside the Friars Crag Path.

The curiously named Catbells undulates in the distance; the name is believed to come from the Old Norse ‘Cat Bields’ meaning ‘shelter of the wild cat’. It’s one of the Lake District’s most popular easy walks – on a summer’s day a steady stream of hikers can be seen wending their way along its spine.

Through the overhanging pine branches, the end of the lake shimmers in the mist towards the Jaws of Borrowdale, a rocky ravine leading into a beautiful valley of white-washed villages, high passes, majestic mountains and yet more lakes, tempting the visitor to explore yet more Lake District delights …

One of the highlights of this year was showing world-class bloggers Keith Jenkins,  of Velvet Escape and Simon Falvo of Avventurosa, around some of my favourite places in the Lake District. Here’s Keith’s account of that trip …

Imagine green rolling hills that stretch to the feet of massive, boulder-like mountains. In the valleys, tranquil, finger-like lakes extend for miles, their forested shores occasionally interrupted by quaint settlements, grassy meadows and striking patches of daffodils. Crystal-clear streams and waterfalls abound. In the fields, white-faced Herdwick sheep graze peacefully, seemingly smiling at everyone who passes by, whilst in the towns, visitors are welcomed by a friendly hello and a tip of the hat. This is the Lake District in the heart of Cumbria…

On my recent trip to Manchester, Zoë, who runs travel writing workshops in Cumbria and around the UK, kindly offered to take me and my good friend  Simon on a tour of the Lakes. Simon and I hopped onto a train for the 1.5 hour journey to Oxenholme (near the gateway to the Lake District), where we met Zoë. We were joined by Stewart Smith, a brilliant photographer, whom, like Zoë, has made the Lakes his home.

Zoë took us on a drive past the touristy towns of  Bowness (with its plethora of shops, cafés and restaurants) and  Windermere, where we made a quick stop at the lakeshore. We were immediately greeted by a bevy of cheeky swans. The sun shone brightly and everything seemed to gleam. Needless to say, the views across the lake were absolutely gorgeous.

We continued our tour along Windermere, passing the most beautiful trees, fields brimming with cheery daffodils and lovely Victorian cottages. Zoë slowed down each time we approached a clearing in the trees, providing us with splendid panoramas of the lakes and the hills. One thing that grabbed my attention was the ample use of slate in the buildings, bridges and fences. We made a brief stop at arguably one of the most famous slate buildings in Cumbria, the Bridge House in Ambleside (incidentally, an absolutely charming town).

Dancing daffodils

Our next stop was Rydal Mount where the famous poet William Wordsworth lived until his death in 1850. Wordsworth’s most famous poem, about ‘dancing daffodils’, was inspired by the landscapes of the Lake District. Rydal Mount is a gorgeous house, surrounded by stunning gardens, that’s lovingly maintained by the curators, Peter and Marianne.

A tour of the house and the gardens provides unique insights into the life of the Wordsworth family. We were really lucky to see Dora’s Field (a patch of land adjacent to the estate which was bought by the poet as a gift to his daughter Dora) in full bloom – William Wordsworth and his wife Mary planted the field with daffodils in memory of Dora who died in 1847.

The Velvet Escape bench at Rydal Water

The next stop on our tour was my personal highlight – a visit to the Velvet Escape Bench overlooking Rydal Water. The bench can be accessed by crossing a stone bridge (opposite the entrance to Rydal Mount) and taking a right turn after the bridge. We parked the car and walked the rest of the way along a path that led us uphill. What awaited us on the other side of the hill was… the bench… and a simply mesmerising view of Rydal Water.

We continued our drive along Rydal Water to the village of  Grasmere, where we strolled around the lovely shops (my favourite was the little Herdy store with its cute, Herdwick sheep inspired souvenirs), checked out Grasmere’s famous Gingerbread Shop and visited St. Oswold’s Church and the adjacent Wordsworth graves.  Grasmere is also home to another Wordsworth attraction: Dove Cottage where the poet lived during his early years in the Lake District.

Our tour ended with a lovely drive back to our address for the night in Ambleside: the beautiful Waterhead Hotel. My room (#11) was simply gorgeous. A little doggy greeted me as I stepped into the room (a fab touch!). The view of Windermere from my window was impressive, as were the comforts in the room and the bathroom.

That evening, Simon and I sat down to a lovely dinner at The Bay restaurant in the hotel. As the sun set, casting a glorious glow across the lake and the hills, we tucked into a superb meal comprising chicken liver parfait and lamb cutlets, and accompanied by a divine Pinotage. A fitting end to a truly unforgettable day.

We didn’t get to see all that the Lake District has to offer (like the Beatrix Potter Gallery, some of the other spectacular lakes like Derwent Water and Wastwater, the famed ruins of Furness Abbey or the market town of Keswick) but you’ll need at least a few more days to cover the sights. As we sipped on that delicious Pinotage, Simon and I promised ourselves that we would return one day soon to once again experience the splendour of the Lake District.

A big thank you goes to Zoë of  Quirky Traveller and Kris of the English Lakes Hotels (or @EnglishLakes on Twitter) for hosting us.

This article originally appeared in Keith’s Velvet Escape blog.

We have had a delightful Italian girl staying with us; she lives in Milan and her father is a friend of travel blogger Simon Falvo.  Gea came to England to improve her English and to see some of the Lake District. It has been quite a culture shock for her, especially staying in the small, unassuming town of Carnforth which really couldn’t be more different from the vibrant, sophisticated, fashionable city of Milan!  Here is Gea’s account of her first week:

‘It’s a little bit strange staying 24 hours a day without your family, saying  “good night” and “good morning” to  people that aren’t your mother or your brother; and “the new family” look at you early in the morning and when you have just had a shower, without any kind of make-up on. But I think that is the most important experience of my travel.

Photo by Gea Spada

Certainly I miss Italy but I have tried as well as I could not to think about it and concentrate on all the beautiful things that are here. I’m so tired… not only because of the constant trips to the cities around like Carlisle, Kendal and in the village like Hawkshead, also because my English isn’t good enough! And now it’s more or less one week that I have spoken only that.

Photo by Gea Spada

But the places that I like most are the lakes of the Lake District: they’re so quiet and tranquil.  Some I have seen are Windermere, Ullswater, Coniston and Eskthwaite. If you look just from the window’s car you’ll start thinking about you, your life, everything. There is always someone who is sailing, also a lot of trees and a lot of ducks!

It’s so different here from Milan: no noisy cars or lights in the streets all the night and a thing that is truly different is the school, where I’ve been for one day with Alex. All the students have to wear a uniform and they change class every lesson; do you believe it? However I liked the school: there was a big field where all the boys were playing football and strangely there was a beautiful sun.

The absolutely best thing ever is cooking an Italian pasta for your English family, that has no price! And tomorrow … ice-cream.’

To sit on that little bench overlooking Rydal Water and idly pass the time of day is one of the most magical experiences anyone can have in this area full of wondrously quirky and inspiring places …

When you are looking for peace and quiet, for a spot that feels ‘away from it all’ and yet is easily accessible, when you want to ‘recollect in tranquillity’ to paraphrase Wordsworth, who lived nearby, this is the place to go – that little wooden bench. You get a great feeling of peace here; it restores your equilibrium in a gentle and comforting way – and maybe that is part of the magic this place holds for its visitors …

You can walk along the lake or up to the ‘Dragons Cave’…  When we moved to Cumbria years ago, we took our young son for one of his first proper walks around the lake.  We ventured up to the cave and over the stepping stones. As he got near the back, he suddenly said, “Look Mum, I can see a light – is it a dragon?” Well who would want to disillusion a four year old? In the ensuing years, I took him to many other places, and we found that dragons had lairs throughout Cumbria …

Whatever the weather, the views are glorious; a perfect distillation of man in harmony with nature. The lake is small enough to walk round easily. To do so, you can take the high path past the Dragon’s Cave, or wander along the shoreline and feed the swans and ducks. On the far side you can traverse the medieval Coffin Route (to St Oswald’s Church) and look down onto the lake, before visiting Dove Cottage or Rydal Mount where Wordsworth lived – or maybe have a refreshing beverage in one of the many tea shops or pubs in nearby Grasmere.

That little bench has become world famous as the Velvet Escape Bench.  Read what international travel blogger Keith Jenkins, founder of Velvet Escape, thought when he finally got to visit the bench and the Lake District for himself HERE.

So next time you are in Cumbria, take a bit of time out to simply sit and reflect and let the world pass you by for a moment or two.  You will be so glad you did …