Quirky Traveller's Tales

One of the highlights of my blog trip travels so far has been the cruise on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth maiden voyage to Norway.  From the lively and moving Southampton ‘Sail Away’, via a mill-pond smooth North Sea crossing to the fascinating Norwegian sites of Stavanger and Lysefjord, the Flåm rail trip from Sognefjord and the ancient port of Bergen, every moment created its own unique memories.  The pinnacle of that trip was, without doubt, sailing slowly through Geiranger Fjord, squeezed between towering mountains and cascading water, through some of the world’s most impressive scenery.

 We cruised into the fjord in the early morning through mist and rain, creating an atmosphere that was evocative but frustrating as the impressive grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site was draped in shadow.  Often described as the ‘quintessential fjord’, Geirangerfjorden is an 8 mile long sliver of green water that slides its way between precipitous mountains decorated with streaming waterfalls and mostly uninhabited farm buildings clinging to their rocky sides.  When we got to the end of the fjord, the ship performed a delicate turn to get into position for us to disembark.  I discovered later that she was kept in place by Satellite positioning as it is far too deep to drop anchor.

Disembarking by boat we were shuttled across the water to the village where a cluster of souvenir shops and cafes serve the regular stream of visitors that visit this popular destination.  Although there are only about 250 permanent residents in Geiranger, during the season about 130 cruise ships visit bringing several hundred thousand visitors every year. I was struck by the way the area seemed to quickly absorb all us tourists and how easy it was to find a quiet corner to explore.  Wandering up a lane at the back of the village I found a large stream thundering over jagged rocks, white painted cottages, an octagonal wooden church with a well-tended graveyard and this old wooden hut overgrown with weeds and bright green moss.

I’d booked a tour up Ørnevegen (the Eagle Road),  the steepest stretch of road up the mountain side from Geiranger towards Eidsdal. The road turns through 11 hairpin bends to the highest point 620 metres above sea level.  At the viewing point of ‘Eagle Bend’ I got a phenomenal sense of nature’s grandeur; far below lay ‘Queen Elizabeth’ , an insignificant craft amidst this awesome landscape.  To the right was the Seven Sisters waterfalls crashing down in silvery sheets into the dark waters below.  The skies had blessedly cleared and the view is one that will stay with me forever …

On our way back down the mountain the tour stopped off at the ‘Norwegian Fjord Centre‘, telling the intriguing story of local people’s daily life and recreations.  I ‘experienced’ an avalanche and learnt how this lethal snowfall is caused.  The beautifully laid out shop sold lovely jumpers, delicate glassware, regional produce and many other tasteful souvenirs to tempt the visitors.  I spent some time watching young volunteers using traditional crafts to recreate a typical farmstead.

At the end of the day I was extremely fortunate to be invited onto the ‘Queen Elizabeth” bridge as Captain Chris Wells and his crew set sail from Geiranger on our way our next port of call, Bergen.  The loud boom of the ship’s hooter reverberated around the mighty mountains as we slowly inched our way along the fjord.  As we passed the streaming ribbons of the Seven Sisters Waterfall the Captain said that Norway and its fjords was one of his favourite places in the world to take his ship – and it is easy to see why …

Many thanks to everyone aboard ‘Queen Elizabeth’ and especially to Lisa Page from Cunard for a marvellous trip – and converting me to the joys of cruising!

Mölle harbour in Skåne, Sweden

I’ve never been there but the first impression of the quaint fishing harbour of Mölle on the west coast of Skåne, Sweden, is that I am in some New England seaside village.  Maybe it’s the old wooden houses painted in white with traditional red roofs which overlook the ever-changing ocean twirling and swooshing along its stone walls and sandy beaches.  Originally a prosperous fishing community in the 19th century, the village is now a popular holiday destination, with many Swedes having holiday homes in the area.  It has an elegantly relaxed air to it, with expensive yachts, speed boats and little dingies jostling side by side in front of quirky gift shops and cafes.  Majestically lording it over the scene is the historic ‘Grand Hotel’.  Built in 1909, it’s the perfect place to sip cocktails on the terrace after a refreshing swim.

Nearby Kullaberg Nature Reserve has a really dramatic coastal landscape. Its peninsula location makes it a big attraction for climbers from around the world and it has some excellent walking and bike trails.  I visited during the summer and had great fun abseiling down a (small) cliff and wandering through the beautiful countryside.   For a historic treat we visited the ancient city of Helsingborg with its impressive old Tower and beautiful palace overlooking Danish islands.  Not too far away is Ystad where Wallender struggles manfully to solve the numerous murders that take place with more regularity than in that other idyllic area, English Midsommer.  Maybe he needs to go to Mölle and just chill – I can highly recommend it.

For more info on this fascinating area check out Visit Sweden.

Was it that unpronounceable volcanic eruption that brought Iceland into mainstream travel notice? Or maybe their spectacular banking debacle that created headline news; whatever the reason, suddenly everyone is talking about this latest must-see destination. Old Iceland hands may feel slightly put out as their secret world opens up to so many others, but for the rest of us, what is the fuss all about?  I recently visited for a few days on one of easyJet’s first flights to Iceland and got a brief glimpse of just what makes this country so extra-special.

Iceland’s scenery is starkly dramatic, with vast areas of wilderness, often ice-covered, that create time and space to relax and reconnect with what’s important in life.  There are plenty of crazy outdoor activities to satisfy even the most dedicated thrill seeker, including snowmobiling, glacial hiking, ice climbing and white-water rafting.  With thousands of sturdy horses all over the island those who fancy riding have plenty of opportunity.  The thermal pools, including the internationally renowned Blue Lagoon, provide rejuvenating spa treatments and health benefits.  The capital, Reykjavik, has got enough bars and restaurants to satisfy every taste and culture vultures should be very happy as there appear to be concert halls, museums and art galleries on every corner. Icelandic Sagas seem to permeate every inch of the country and every fibre of the quirky, friendly, intrepid people who live in this dramatic island on the edge of the world.  And, if you are really fortunate, you may get to see the luminously sinuous kaleidoscope of colour that is the Aurora Borealis …

The Golden Circle

It’s very easy for a first time visitor to get a flavour of the place by doing ‘The Golden Circle’ – a relatively short trip that takes in a trio of the most iconic sights in Iceland.  I went on a tour of this area with a charmingly bonkers guide called Villy, who told us mind-boggling stories of evil trolls, malevolent elves and people who went mad on a seemingly regular basis with hardly any provocation whatsoever …  the ancient tradition of story-telling is obviously alive and well in this fascinating land of quirky contrasts.

The first of the sights is Geysir Hot Springs at Haukadalur, a geothermal area of steaming land and bubbling mud pools.  The original ‘Geysir’, granddaddy of all other geysers, is now in retirement but its grandson, Strokkur, sends up a whooshingly spectacular plume of hot water and steam 30 meters into the air every few minutes. Watch out for the intensely blue bubble that bursts just before the jet explodes.  Take time to wander over to the colourful sulphur pools, pay homage to the old ‘Geysir’ simmering nearby and discover ‘Litl Geysi’r, merrily hissing and gurgling all but unnoticed beside the path.

A short distance on is one of the most impressive waterfalls in Europe – Gulfoss, the Golden Waterfall.  On an L-shaped bend in the Hvitá River, the falls cascade in glorious abandon 32 meters down in two stages, hurling out thunderous spray in a permanent cacophony of rainbows and mist.  Taking a bit of a scramble, it is possible to get up close and feel the power of nature as well as getting drenched in style.

Driving west through ancient landscapes with ice-capped volcanoes looming on the the horizon, you see the tiny birch trees – more like scrubby bushes – that were the only indigenous trees on this island and meant early Viking settlers had to import all their wood  for house and boat building.  The final stage of this tour is also the most significant and symbolic to Icelanders.  Þingvellir National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site close to Lake Þingvillaten.  For centuries it was the site of the Alþingi, national Parliament and said to be the oldest in the world.  The Parliament Fields are situated on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the continents of Europe and America are slowly but surely drifting apart, causing all that volcanic and earthquake activity.  Wander around this evocative park and take time to stand and stare at the crystal clear waters and vibrantly green moss that clings to the old lava rocks.

If you get time, have lunch at Lindin Bistro at Laugarten; it’s a Michelin starred restaurant without attitude – just excellent local produce and seasonal specialities prepared and presented with care and love.  The bread is baked in the ground by the nearby hot springs and their lobster bisque is divine.

I stayed at the lovely 4 star Hotel Borg in the heart of Reykjavik, on the main square, close by all the bars, restaurants, port and cultural sights.  I loved the art galleries and museums which encapsulate the diverse culture, history and contemporary identity of this compelling country.  Now it’s even easier and cheaper to get to Iceland from Europe as EasyJet has opened up a new route bringing in welcome visitors to experience these sights and so much more.  I flew with them from Luton to Reykjavik – they have flights 3 times a week all year round and can arrange holiday packages for all budgets.  It’s a fascinating country that truly deserves the word ‘unique’ – go and see for yourself just how very quirky and special it is!

Gazing out across the bleak container base alongside which we’d berthed an hour earlier, looking at the sheeting rain against mist-shrouded mountains, I was not the least bit tempted to go ashore …

I’d had a sleepless night being bounced up and down and side to side as we sailed south from the stunning Sognefjord & Geiranger – most definitely not in the throes of a passionate encounter.  The good ship ‘Queen Elizabeth’ had encountered a quite awesome storm and been deftly steered through it to arrive unscathed in Bergen – but too late for our tour of the old town & surrounding area.  Looking at the weather outside, I decided to snuggle up in a cosy corner with a book and simply enjoy a bit of peace and recover from the previous night’s excitement …

After an hour or so, I had relaxed enough and decided it was silly not to go ashore; after all, I live in NW England and Bergen has been likened to Manchester, because it rains so often.  A short coach ride out of the container port and … a step back in history.  Although it’s Norway’s second largest city, Bergen has the feel of a provincial town, with all the sights, shops and attractions within easy walking distance.  Because of the mist and limited time, I reluctantly decided not to go on the Funicular up to Mount Fløyen, where apparently you can enjoy “a spectacular view of the city and fabled seven mountains” – weather permitting. (How come cities are always surrounded by SEVEN hills, not six or eight?)

So I headed off to the harbour area of Bryggen, a collection of colourful old wooden warehouses. The Hanseatic merchants used to live and trade here but in 1702 a major fire (always a hazard in Norway) destroyed most of the building so these are the newer 18^th century ones,  now tastefully restored.  There are plenty of inviting restaurants and quirky little boutiques selling chunky Norwegian sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves and other knitted paraphernalia and slightly less tacky than usual souvenirs.  My favourite was The Moose Shop, which is a bit funkier – got son socks decorated with blue moose (mooses … moosie?) and a couple of sturdy little notebooks for my journey jottings.

At the end of the wharf was an absolutely gorgeous 3-masted ship, with a beautiful gilded prow and complicated rigging. It’s the ‘Statsraad Lehmkuhl’, originally built as a training ship for the German merchant marine and now chartered by the Royal Norwegian Navy for the same purpose.

Opposite is the sternly imposing 12^th century St Mary’s Church, the oldest stone building in Bergen.  Wandering back past the shops I found a little alleyway – by just going off the main street you suddenly feel as if you are in a time long gone and can almost hear the cries of the fishermen as they unloaded their catch to sell in the nearby fishmarket – another fascinating place to visit.

The rain started to come down heavier as I returned to the ship, but I stopped to admire a large statue of a musician playing his violin beside a carved pool.  It’s of one of Norway’s most famous musicians – Ole Bull (should’ve been a matador …) – and as he played, oblivious to the rain, he seemed to epitomise the brief glimpse I’d had of this maritime city.  A charming and evocative place – whatever the weather …

Many thanks to all the wonderful crew aboard Queen Elizabeth and the team at Cunard for a memorably wonderful Norwegian cruise.

One of the glories of Sweden is Fika … taking time out for coffee, cake and a chat. Heaven on a plate …  On a trip to the southern region of Skåne I sampled a lot of VERY good cake as well as many more sensory delights.  It’s a land of beautiful beaches, fertile fields, medieval villages, contemporary design and vibrant towns. Linking in to the concept of sustainable living, there’s a great emphasis on locally grown-produce, organic farms and fresh seafood.  Here are some ideas to help you make the most of a visit to this fascinating region, whatever the weather, whenever you go …

• Stroll round Malmöhus Castle gardens and discover what’s growing in the organic vegetable patch.  Try Fika at the Slottsträdgården café  It’s a quirky old greenhouse with grapes hanging from the vines and truly scrumptious chocolate brownies …

• Go swimming from the quaint old wooden Kallbadhuset Bathing House at Ribban (Malmö beach) overlooking the Oresund Bridge and Turning Torso building.  Nudity NOT compulsory! End the day with dinner at welcoming Salt Y Brygge, one of the world’s first truly organic restaurants.  If the weather’s good you can sit outside and gaze across to Denmark …

• Hire a bike and trundle round Malmö, a curiously compelling city that seamlessly combines old and new. Just off the medieval square of Lila Torg is the funky modernist Form & Design Center showcasing how very creative Malmö is.

• Get sand in your toes on the beach at Mossbystrand in the Österlen region.  Sample more delicious fika at the traditional café nearby.  Great homemade pastries and cakes – plus a huge range of fruit & herbal teas, preserves and some unusual gifts.

• Step back in time at mystical Ales Stenar, an ancient Stone Circle high above the sea.  Its original use is still unknown but the setting is spectacular. Below is the quaint fishing village of Kaseberga. Try the smoked prawns or chowder at Vendels where you can eat out overlooking the tiny harbour.

• Walk in Wallender’s footsteps through the quaint old streets of pretty Ystad. Sweden’s most famous detective solves murders all round here and you can get a guided tour to show all his favourite haunts.   If you’re lucky you might just catch a glimpse of the elusive Hornblower in the old clock tower.

• Escape for a while to one of Great Garbo’s favourite hideaway – the luxurious Hotel  Ystad på Saltsjöbad Relax in the sauna or Jacuzzi, run along the jetty and jump in the sea or, for something completely different, try their Gourmet Food package and cook a meal with their top chef, who’ll make you think you can win Master Chef without trying.

• Test your limits – go abseiling at one of Sweden’s top national parks, Kullaberg Nature Reserve. If heights aren’t your thing try mountain biking, or just take a picnic and enjoy the scenery.  The bustling fishing village of Mölle is reminiscent of Cornwall’s Padstow, with the iconic Grand Hotel looking down on all the activity.

• Explore the old city of Helsingborg with Kärnan, its unusual medieval tower and ornate City Hall and Venetian-style campanile.  Luxurious yachts jostle for space with high-speed ferries to nearby Denmark and the nightlife is buzzing.

• Discover a real-life fairy story at the Sofiero Palace on the outskirts of Helsingborg.  Inside the palace there’s a fascinating exhibition telling the story of the Swedish Royal family’s summer residence.  The gardens are outstanding and the kids will love the children’s play area and quirky sculptures.  Exhibitions change in the palace and grounds so plenty of reasons to revisit.

Many thanks to Malin and Visit Sweden for organising this trip and to Sara from Four BGB for being a fab host.  There’s a great Face Book app to help choose the perfect trip to this fascinating part of the world.  A version of this article appeared for Wandering Educators.

On a recent trip to Skåne with Visit Sweden, we were taken to an area of the region called Kåseberga, not far from the Wallander popularised town of Ystad.  It was here where we would discover a quaint harbour-side village bursting with scrumptious food and a surprise awaiting us high above on the grassy hills above.  As you ascend up the incline from the wharf and car park, you see massive stones entrenched in the ground, peering out over the top of the horizon, and you start to think: “what is this? Some kind of Swedish Stonehenge?” and you’d be right.

Before you read the information sign, you start to form in your own mind what these stones signify. How long have they been here? Is it some kind of ship model that was used to help engineers of a time gone by craft their next sea-going vessel?  Offering an 180^o view of the sea and at the same time an open 180^o view of the land behind it, the Ales stenar (Ale’s Stones) is the largest stone ship found in Sweden. Stone ships were a typical burial custom in Scandinavia thousands of years ago, and it’s believed that an ancient King named Ales was buried here according to legend.

Made up of 59 sandstone boulders and is 67 metres long and 19 metres wide, archaeologists estimate that Ales Stenar is at least 1,400 years old, which bears a lot of similarities to Stonehenge in England.  It’s purpose and meaning has been actively debated through the years, but it hasn’t stopped this site being one of the most visited attractions in Sweden. It’s seen its fair share of wear and tear, having been restored in 1917 and 1956 to maintain it’s historical significance.

After we had climbed the hill and taken in Ales stenar in all its mythical wonderment, we returned down into Kåseberga harbour, ravenous for some fantastic Swedish cuisine. The gourmet Vendel Restaurant, which casts its gaze out over the harbour, greeted us. With its matt black frontage and outdoor “grill by the sea” area jutting out over the water, it makes for a scenic lunch or spot of fika in the afternoon.

It was here that we sampled the best culinary delights this area of Skåne has to offer. Everything from huge bowls of prawns to cauldrons of soup was consumed. My personal favourite was the monstrous pork belly. It was a never-ending, dense sheet of pork goodness that left me a defeated man. Breaking through the crisp armour of pork crackling revealed the succulent and juicy fillet below which was undoubtedly some of the finest pork I’d ever consumed.

Contributing to the experience was the opportunity to watch the cooks prepare all our food right before our eyes in the makeshift kitchen outside. Here’s where the “grill by the sea” label rang true, with the waves gently lapping against the shore close to the decking we were enjoying lunch on.

Who would have thought that a tiny enclave down near the ocean would open up so much significant Swedish history and a culinary experience to rival those found in the rest of Scandinavia? We left feeling humbled, satiated and just a bit better educated about Norse history.

Justin Morris is an Australian living the dream in London. With only weekends available to travel, he explores European cities on a regularly basis between working as an IT consultant during the week and blogs about it at 48 Hour Adventure.

Find out how Justin, some other intrepid bloggers and The Quirky Traveller got on when we tried our hand at gourmet cooking in Sweden!