Quirky Traveller's Tales

In the fifth of the ‘Challenge Zoë’ activities for The Kendal Courier  I had an extremely indulgent pampering session at local Bellissimo Beauty Salon.  Here’s a version of the original article that appeared in the magazine.

Now you may be wondering quite how such an ‘adventure’ could possibly come under the title ‘Challenge Zoë’.  Well, let’s just say I find it very difficult to justify spending time on myself when I ‘should’ be working, looking after my son, planning the next article and fretting about not doing the housework.  So when The Kendal Courier Editor Dan asked if I’d like to try out have a couple of beauty treatments for my next assignment, I was round there before you could say ‘aromatherapy massage’ …

Situated on Stramongate in the heart of Kendal, Bellissimo Beauty Studio owner Sue Nicholson immediately made me feel welcome, with a friendly smile and offer of tea or coffee.  (Unlike some places where you feel as you’re being assessed the minute you walk through the door.)  I loved the contemporary black and white décor and spacious  reception – calming with a hint of luxury.   After I had filled in a rather lengthy questionnaire on my current health and beauty regime (what?!) beauty therapist Fiona took me downstairs to the treatment room.

There followed the most heavenly two hours of luxurious relaxation and rejuvenation I have had in a very long time.  Fiona explained the treatment I had booked – the Indulgent Beauty Package (£72).  First she was going to give me a head, shoulders and back massage and asked how I liked it – firm, medium or strong.  Medium/strong please.  Then she’d apply Aroma Boost facial using Eve Taylor products.  “I’ll start with a purifying wash using a special cleansing brush, then a deep cleanse followed by exfoliant, accompanied by arm and hand massage.  I’ll apply a soothing aromatic masque and whilst that’s taking effect I’ll give you a leg and foot massage.  Finally you’ll have a moisturiser to suit your skin type followed by a spritz of toner to seal all products onto the skin.” It all sounded good to me so I lay back and put myself in her very capable and soothing hands. 

I really appreciated that she didn’t talk during the session so I could totally unwind with just background music as accompaniment.  The massage was extremely effective and managed to unravel some of the knots caused by spending too much time in front of the computer.  The delicious scents from the facial made me feel nice and relaxed; as you can see from the picture above I almost dozed off during it.  After that treatment I had a quick pedicure, choosing a vibrant shade of pillar box red nail varnish to celebrate the new me.

I floated out of Bellissimo Beauty Salon feeling totally refreshed, vowing not to leave it too long before I was ‘challenged’ like this again!

Read about my next Challenge – in an electric car called The Twizy at Langdale Hotel – great fun

On St George’s Day, April 23rd, I spent a magical time photographing Lake District daffodils, exploring an evocative old house that Wordsworth used to live in and discovering that sheep may safely graze in Dora’s Field. Spring is the perfect time of year to visit one of Britain’s favourite destinations. Here’s what I did over a few hours …

The drive from Carnforth to Grasmere is such a pleasure. I went up the A6 through the little market town of Milnthorpe, past the ancient topiary gardens at Levens Hall and on to the A591 past Kendal. As you dip down to the Crook roundabout you get to your first really good view of the Lake District fells. It always lifts my heart and reminds me why I live in this part of the world.  Then it was on towards Windermere, along the lakeshore, past the long, white frontage of the Low Wood Bay Hotel, beside peaceful Rydal Water and into historic Grasmere village with its lovely lake.

In spring the village blooms into life as a ‘host of golden daffodils’ made famous by local poet, William Wordsworth, seem to be permanently ‘fluttering and dancing in the breeze.’  My first stop was to pay a quick visit to the poet’s family grave in ancient St Oswald’s churchyard.  In the summer it is almost impossible to get close to what has become a shrine for visitors from around the world, but this time there was just a solitary American.  ”Which William is the right one?” he asked, looking over at two old tombstones with the same names … A couple of past-their-best daffodils sagged disconsolately in front of their champion’s simple stone.

He then wandered off to visit quaint Dove Cottage and I went into the Wordsworth Daffodil Garden.  Here many people have sponsored a personally engraved slate paving stone, a shrub, or a wild daffodil and there’s an air of peace and tranquility that the poet laureate would have very much appreciated.

Sitting on a wooden bench it was a joy to listen to the River Rothay burbling away under the stone bridge, the ducks quacking as they started house-building for their forthcoming families and the many birds singing their little hearts out in the spring sunshine.

Suddenly the sun disappeared. You may know the saying ‘Ne’er cast a clout till May is out’, which could refer to the month or the blossom.  Well, in Cumbria it’s best to be prepared all year round. As well as my sturdy walking boots and waterproof jacket I had decided to try out some thermals I’d been sent by Universal Textiles. Now, I’ll be honest here and say that for the past few years, I’ve been wearing an almost threadbare set that had belonged to my aunt, which probably boasted a tog-factor of 2. So I was very pleased to be sporting a set of beautifully soft white long-johns and vest (I know – not sexy but sooooo warm – and NO PHOTO!) keeping me cosy as it went decidedly cooler.  Apparently they are worn by the ‘World’s Most Travelled Man’ Fred Finn and what’s good enough for Fred …

Opposite St Olaf’s, next to the cottage of world-renowned Story-Teller Taffy Thomas, is the National Trust shop in an old house called Church Stile. I popped in to see Chris Shaw, who’s a mine of information on Grasmere and the surrounding area.   She suggested I go up the road to visit Allan Bank, one of the National Trust’s latest properties to open to the public, where I could enjoy the views and get a free cup of coffee.  After a quick look round the shop, picking up a few information leaflets, I walked through village and up the short hill to the large cream house overlooking the lake.

Allan Bank has a fascinating history; Wordsworth lived here, as did co-founder of the National Trust, Canon Rawnsley who left it to the Trust.  Badly burned in a fire in 2011, it was finally opened to the public in 2012.  The wonderful thing is, the NT have left it virtually undecorated but created unique spaces where children can play, artists can create and everyone can enjoy a unique atmosphere that seems to positively force visitors to slow down and relax.  Dave Almond explained some of the work being done at present – the gardens are being restored and the public are being consulted at all times to ensure Allan Bank doesn’t lose its special appeal.  The enormous Tweetcloud above the entrance hall fireplace sums up the feelings this charming place evokes.

The final stop of the day was Dora’s Field in nearby Rydal.  When Wordsworth’s daughter Dora died in 1847, the poet was devastated. He’d given her this plot of land near to his home, Rydal Mount, and in memory of her he planted thousands of daffodils - the tiny ones often found in woods and beside lakes.  Every spring they produce a glorious display.  And there, chomping away on stubby grass (and possibly the daffs) were a couple of other lakeland favourites, Herdwick Sheep.  These study animals are bred to survive the Cumbrian climate and high fells;  they have thick, dark, wiry wool and smiley white faces.

At the top of the field there’s an old bench and from here I caught a glimpse of one of my favourite lakes, Rydal Water, still visible through the skeletal trees. I sat there for a long time, just listening to the sheep grazing and the rustling of a myriad of bright yellow Lake District daffodils …

Read how World Travel Blogger Kate Harrison Whiteside moved from Broughton, Cumbria to Rossland, Canada and discovered a totally different way of life.

When we planned to exchange our Broughton-in-Furness Lake District fell views for Canada’s Rocky Mountain views from Calgary, Alberta, it seemed like a plan set in stone. Our urban future would be filled with hockey games, biking along city paths, eating at a buffet of international restaurants and weekend mountain getaways.  We didn’t expect to keep travelling west over the Rockies to the small Kootenay mountain resort of Rossland, BC, half way to Vancouver.

Rossland Town www.redresort.com

My first flight from Calgary to Rossland also did not go as planned. Low cloud over the Columbia River valley prevented landing. The gentleman next to me asked if I was visiting – and then said he knew my husband. His advice: ‘Stick with us. We’ve done this before.’ So, I did.  Another flight. Another town. A 4X4 rental.  And, a snowy drive in the darkness over the Kootenay’s infamous Salmo-Creston Pass. It was a real introduction to winter life in this never-ending series of mountain ranges.

 My husband picked me up and we drove straight up for 10 kilometers to Rossland’s Red Mountain Ski Resort – our ‘temporary’ home. A bear had walked past the patio during the week. I would hear lots of bear tales, see bear droppings, but, never have a real sighting – yet … 

Red Mountain Ski Resort by redresort.com

The winter days were blindingly bright as the sun bounced off fresh snow. Up at Red, the average snowfall is 650 centimeters, almost twice as much as in Rossland, only three miles away. Both get nearly 2000 hours of sunlight annually.  My lunch breaks evolved into cross country skiing, snowshoeing or walking breaks The light, air and trails were pristine – and it was quiet. The wind seldom shows itself. 

Skiing at Red Resort by redresort.com

Even when we moved into Rossland, I found myself tuned into the delightful quiet. It is especially silent on snowy days – six out of 10 people own a ski pass – as it becomes a ghost town.  When I left Canada, skiing was the winter sport of choice, and we bought cross-country skis shortly after landing. But, during my thirteen years in the UK, Canada had developed a new pastime. The outdoor shop walls were full of shiny, colourful and cleverly designed  - snowshoes. It is now my winter sport du jour: I can do it just about anywhere. This year we treated ourselves to a snow blower!  All part of Alpine life.

When walking downtown, I am constantly reminded of Rossland’s gold mining beginnings by the old-style storefronts, murals painted on building walls and posters for events at the Miners’ Hall.  Rossland’s 42 saloons, 17 law firms and four banks of the 1800s have been replaced with boutiques, a chocolatier’s, shoe shops, spas, an Italian grocery store, a Japanese tapas restaurant and cappuccino cafes. And, I frequent them all. It’s a perk of living in an Alpine tourist town.

Near the ski hill bus stop on Columbia Avenue stands the larger-than-life bronze statue in honour of the town’s famous miner, father of competitive skiing and originator of the annual winter festival – Olaus Jeldness. At this year’s 116^th annual carnival, revellers donned fake black moustaches in his honour. People talk about Canadian Olympic medal winners Nancy Green, Kerrin Lee-Gartner, and the other Canadian ski team members who have called Rossland home. It is unlikely I will join their ranks. But, every day when I am greeted by the stunning valley views, sunlight blasting off the tops, I feel like a gold medal winner!

Red Mountain view – photo by N.Henson www.redresort.com

It is funny how the best-laid plans take on a life of their own.  Our move from Broughton, Cumbria to Rossland, Canada is proof that Plan B CAN be better. The fact is, we are now Rosslanders and can’t imagine living anywhere else.

Kate Harrison Whiteside began professional life as a journalist, but fate took her down the freelancing path. Starting out as a print writer, she went in the direction of online content. Kate occasionally changes lanes, writing fiction instead of fact. She runs Key Advice from a room with a view in Rossland.  You can read her blog This Canadian Life, find her on Face Book and follow her on Twitter @thiscanadian

The Twizy is quite simply fantastic fun on four wheels. It’s a tiny electric car that thinks it’s a Ferrari. And when you drive one you’ll get as much attention, if not more, as if you were driving one of the most iconic cars in the world.  For the sixth of the ‘Challenge Zoë’ adventures for the Kendal Courier I whizzed off round the little lanes of the southern Lake District to test it out.  Here’s the article that appeared in the December edition of the magazine. 

 “Oh, it’s adorable … What is it?”  The American woman’s response was typical. Everywhere I went in the Twizy, people smiled, took photos, and wanted to have a go.  I explained that it was an electric car and yes, of course she and her friends could all take photos.  Then I was off again on my silent way through the lovely lanes of the Lake District.

An hour or so earlier I had left the Langdale Hotel, where I was staying, having been given a quick briefing on how to drive the Twizy.  “It’s very easy. All you do is turn on the engine, put it into Drive and off you go.  It’ll do at least 40 miles before it needs charging and here’s a map showing routes and free Charge points.  You could head over to the L’al Ratty via the best drive in the Lake District or go over Kirkstone Pass to the Ullswater Steamer. Or just have a wander about the villages and country roads.”

Guests at the hotel can hire a Twizy for £10 per hour.  They are part of Cumbria tourism’s Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ transport initiative which includes lots of interesting ideas about how to travel around the Lake District.  The Langdale Estate leases the vehicles from Co-Wheels Car Club which provide an eco-friendly alternative to private car use.

 When I parked near the ferry at Ambleside, people gathered round, asking questions and taking photos.  As I pushed up the gull-wing door to get out, there was a little “aaah” from the audience.  A group of Air Cadets insisted on having their picture taken with me holding a mascot and they had lots of questions.

Yes, you can charge it from an ordinary plug, top speed’s about 50 miles per hour and yes, it is a bit chilly with no windows so wrap up warm.   And there are a number of places in the Lakes where you can hire them.  But be warned  – you won’t go unnoticed. This tiny vehicle really has got the X-Factor … and it is so much fun to drive!

You can read more about my stay at the luxurious Langdale Hotel here and experience of Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ sustainable travel initiative here.

“Ah, you’ve got Room 105.  Very special.  You’re going to love it.”  When the charming guy carrying your bag tells you that, after you’ve checked in to a hotel, you could be forgiven for a slight air of scepticism.  After all, he’s not likely to say, “Oh Room 105 – poor you.”  However, when he opened the door I saw exactly what he meant.  In front of me were TWO seductively curvaceous baths facing out towards a huge bed, a spacious seating area, large bowl of fresh fruit, bedroom slippers, fluffy bathrobe, quality toiletries, huge flat screen TV and iPod deck.  It’s not often I’m really impressed by a hotel bedroom but this time – oh yes.

The room exuded warm, seductive charm – the only drawback was that I didn’t have a warm, seductive guy to share the romantic atmosphere with.  The Langdale Hotel describes it as “Luxurious, Cool, Romantic, Unusual, Stunning, Contemporary, Surprising, Fun, Naughty, Cheeky, Relaxing, Exciting, Different.” Yep, I’d agree with that – and add ‘Quality Quirky’ to the list!

I’d been invited to see for myself what the Langdale offers their hotel or timeshare property guests and also to test drive the Twizy, a tiny electric car that is causing more of a stir on the roads and lanes of the Lake District than any Ferrari or Porsche would.  A quick wander round the hotel was enough to see that there’s every facility you could wish for on a luxury holiday, whether for a family, on a romantic break, business trip or solo traveller like me.  Here are a just three of my favourite things:

• The Langdale Spa – having a facial or massage is always a real treat. When you can combine both in one blissfully relaxing session then tis heaven indeed.  Spoilt for choice with an extensive menu of treatments, beautician Louise suggested I opt for the Elemis Face & Body Sensations which promised a “thermal-soothing massage followed by an anti-ageing facial designed to restore youthful radiance.”  What she actually gave me was an hour or so of sheer relaxation and  indulgence and I certainly FELT rejuvenated, whatever the age I looked …

• The Swimming Pool – with 20 metres to paddle up and down in I could happily avoid the half-term kiddies splashing around and then take a few minutes time-out in the ‘Sanarium’, a Scandinavian-type wooden cabin combining the heat of the sauna with the less dry atmosphere of a steam room. And no, I was not tempted to try the chilly ‘deluge shower’.

• Purdey’s Restaurant – now this is where the Langdale exceeded my expectations by a country mile.  I’d been told the food was very good, but then you’d expect that in a luxury hotel of this calibre.  What I was not prepared for was dishes that would merit a Michelin Star and provide a superb sensory sensation.  Having opted for the Tasting Menu, which at £49.50 is excellent value, I was presented with plate after scrumptious plate of divine taste bombs.  Outstanding was the combination of roast artichokes, Scottish girolles & crunchy samphire. But the craziest dish, which surprisingly worked really well. was the lemon meringue cheesecake & raspberries with a heady basil sorbet.  Masterly, Chef …

After a great night’s sleep wallowing in king-size splendour, I was back in Purdey’s for breakfast.  The restaurant was buzzing as people fueled up for a day out in the autumnal Lakeland sunshine.   Now it was time for my Quirky Travel adventure in the Twizy.  The cute little electric car was fully charged and it’s really easy to drive.  Switch engine on, foot down and off you go.  It charges from an ordinary plug socket and there are power points around the south Lake District.  And what an eye-catching little wowzer it is!

I drove out along the Langdale Valley, through Ambleside and up to Grasmere, relishing the autumnal colours whilst wishing I had brought some gloves, as the car doesn’t have windows.  It has a neat turn of speed and is easy to manoeuvre.  As you probably know, electric cars are virtually silent from the outside (though not from the inside!) so I had to be careful not give the Lake District walkers a heart attack as I crept up behind them on the narrow country lanes.  Everywhere I went people smiled, children laughed and it was more photographed than James Bond’s Aston Martin … With a battery distance of 40+ miles I didn’t need to recharge and was really sad to have to hand back the keys a couple of hours later.  (More details of my trip in The Kendal Courier magazine and to be posted on the blog shortly.)

The Langdale Hotel leases the Twizys from the Co-Wheels Car Club so their hotel and timeshare guests can hire one from just £10 an hour.  Great value for one of the most fun ways to get around the Lake District.

Many thanks to the staff at the lovely Langdale Hotel for making my stay so enjoyable and for that gorgeous bedroom.  Find them on Face Book here. You can discover other interesting ways to get around the south Lake District, including ferries and electric bikes, with Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ campaign.

In the fourth of the ‘Challenge Zoë’ activities for The Kendal Courier I had a sailing lesson with Outrun Sailing, based in Bowness on Windermere, on England’s longest lake in the heart of the Lake District.  Here’s the original of the article that originally appeared in the magazine.

“I can’t find the wind …” There was a slight note of hysteria in my voice as I wafted the wheel from side to side with no visible effect.  “Don’t worry – it’s gone away so let’s just relax and enjoy the view.” So said Simon, the totally chilled instructor for Outrun Sailing, where you can get RYA certified, charter a yacht for a celebration or organise a business day out.  I was having a couple of hours’ tuition to brush up my skills.  I love sailing on Windermere and used to race every Sunday, but hadn’t been out for ages. 

We took a nippy zodiac out to the mooring near Windermere Marina and got on board ‘The Adventurer’, a sleek 32 foot yacht with plenty of space to move around and a good sized cabin.  Simon gave a safety briefing that included what to do if he fell over – “don’t panic!” – then we motored out into the lake.  Simon demonstrated how to use the winches for the sheets (ropes) and gave a quick lesson in the quirky nautical terminology that all sailors like to baffle land-lubbers with.

It was an overcast afternoon but the morning’s rain had cleared and there was a light breeze. We hauled the two sails up - I’ve always found it difficult to know which way to turn a boat to make the most of the wind but Simon explained it all really clearly and soon we were slipping across the lake at a fair rate of knots.  With a large wheel which responded smoothly to the touch it was easy to steer the yacht.  There can surely be no lovelier place to spend time on the water than Windermere, with its little green isles, wooded shores, luxury Victorian houses and the glorious Lake District fells hovering above it all.

As we meandered from side to side along the lake, I got more confident and started to enjoy that wonderful sensation of being at one with the elements.  The rain held off and the skies gradually brightened.  Tacking, when you zig-zag from side to side to catch the wind, can seem annoying to those who love to go in a straight line and zoom along – but for those of us who like to take our time, with a light zephyr helping along, it’s a great way to enjoy the scenery.  And if there is a strong wind blowing then it can be both  fast and exhilarating – and occasional dangerous!  Not the case today …

Eventually we had to turn back; and it was then I got a tad panicky as I tried to find the elusive breeze.  The sun had come out and the wind had dropped completely.   Simon said, “Just relax. There’s nothing we can do – it’s the Zen of Sailing …”

So we sat back and enjoyed the scenery, birds wheeling overhead, a graceful ferry taking visitors around the lake and children shouting with glee as they paddled about in kayaks. Eventually the breeze picked up again and we slowly made our way back to shore, relaxed and invigorated by the little adventure on the water.

Read about the three previous Challenges: fun Tank Driving at Holmescales,  brilliant Golf Lesson at Carus Green and conquering a Lakeland Climbing Wall