Quirky Traveller's Tales

On St George’s Day, April 23rd, I spent a magical time photographing Lake District daffodils, exploring an evocative old house that Wordsworth used to live in and discovering that sheep may safely graze in Dora’s Field. Spring is the perfect time of year to visit one of Britain’s favourite destinations. Here’s what I did over a few hours …

The drive from Carnforth to Grasmere is such a pleasure. I went up the A6 through the little market town of Milnthorpe, past the ancient topiary gardens at Levens Hall and on to the A591 past Kendal. As you dip down to the Crook roundabout you get to your first really good view of the Lake District fells. It always lifts my heart and reminds me why I live in this part of the world.  Then it was on towards Windermere, along the lakeshore, past the long, white frontage of the Low Wood Bay Hotel, beside peaceful Rydal Water and into historic Grasmere village with its lovely lake.

In spring the village blooms into life as a ‘host of golden daffodils’ made famous by local poet, William Wordsworth, seem to be permanently ‘fluttering and dancing in the breeze.’  My first stop was to pay a quick visit to the poet’s family grave in ancient St Oswald’s churchyard.  In the summer it is almost impossible to get close to what has become a shrine for visitors from around the world, but this time there was just a solitary American.  ”Which William is the right one?” he asked, looking over at two old tombstones with the same names … A couple of past-their-best daffodils sagged disconsolately in front of their champion’s simple stone.

He then wandered off to visit quaint Dove Cottage and I went into the Wordsworth Daffodil Garden.  Here many people have sponsored a personally engraved slate paving stone, a shrub, or a wild daffodil and there’s an air of peace and tranquility that the poet laureate would have very much appreciated.

Sitting on a wooden bench it was a joy to listen to the River Rothay burbling away under the stone bridge, the ducks quacking as they started house-building for their forthcoming families and the many birds singing their little hearts out in the spring sunshine.

Suddenly the sun disappeared. You may know the saying ‘Ne’er cast a clout till May is out’, which could refer to the month or the blossom.  Well, in Cumbria it’s best to be prepared all year round. As well as my sturdy walking boots and waterproof jacket I had decided to try out some thermals I’d been sent by Universal Textiles. Now, I’ll be honest here and say that for the past few years, I’ve been wearing an almost threadbare set that had belonged to my aunt, which probably boasted a tog-factor of 2. So I was very pleased to be sporting a set of beautifully soft white long-johns and vest (I know – not sexy but sooooo warm – and NO PHOTO!) keeping me cosy as it went decidedly cooler.  Apparently they are worn by the ‘World’s Most Travelled Man’ Fred Finn and what’s good enough for Fred …

Opposite St Olaf’s, next to the cottage of world-renowned Story-Teller Taffy Thomas, is the National Trust shop in an old house called Church Stile. I popped in to see Chris Shaw, who’s a mine of information on Grasmere and the surrounding area.   She suggested I go up the road to visit Allan Bank, one of the National Trust’s latest properties to open to the public, where I could enjoy the views and get a free cup of coffee.  After a quick look round the shop, picking up a few information leaflets, I walked through village and up the short hill to the large cream house overlooking the lake.

Allan Bank has a fascinating history; Wordsworth lived here, as did co-founder of the National Trust, Canon Rawnsley who left it to the Trust.  Badly burned in a fire in 2011, it was finally opened to the public in 2012.  The wonderful thing is, the NT have left it virtually undecorated but created unique spaces where children can play, artists can create and everyone can enjoy a unique atmosphere that seems to positively force visitors to slow down and relax.  Dave Almond explained some of the work being done at present – the gardens are being restored and the public are being consulted at all times to ensure Allan Bank doesn’t lose its special appeal.  The enormous Tweetcloud above the entrance hall fireplace sums up the feelings this charming place evokes.

The final stop of the day was Dora’s Field in nearby Rydal.  When Wordsworth’s daughter Dora died in 1847, the poet was devastated. He’d given her this plot of land near to his home, Rydal Mount, and in memory of her he planted thousands of daffodils - the tiny ones often found in woods and beside lakes.  Every spring they produce a glorious display.  And there, chomping away on stubby grass (and possibly the daffs) were a couple of other lakeland favourites, Herdwick Sheep.  These study animals are bred to survive the Cumbrian climate and high fells;  they have thick, dark, wiry wool and smiley white faces.

At the top of the field there’s an old bench and from here I caught a glimpse of one of my favourite lakes, Rydal Water, still visible through the skeletal trees. I sat there for a long time, just listening to the sheep grazing and the rustling of a myriad of bright yellow Lake District daffodils …

‘Is it not strange, this madness that has gripped us?’ asks Cornelius.

‘What madness?’ asks the painter.

‘Have you surrendered to the passion yet?’

The painter pauses. ‘It depends what passion you are talking about.’

‘This speculation on tulip bulbs …. Great fortunes have been made and lost. These new hybrids that they have been growing – they fetch the most astonishing prices.  Thousands of florins, if you know when to buy and sell..’ Cornelius’s voice rises with excitement; he too has greatly profited from this tulipomania.

‘Why, the Semper Augustus bulb – they are the most beautiful and the most valuable – one bulb sold last week for six fine horses, three oxheads of wine, a dozen sheep, two dozen silver goblets and a seascape by Esaias van de Velde!’

Taken from Deborah Moggach’s imaginative novel ‘Tulip Fever’, this extract sums up the emotions and financial risks that 17^th century Dutch merchants were subject to when the desire for this simple flower overtook the world.  On a visit to the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland you get an idea of why the beauty and variety of tulips enraptured so many.

Mondrian-like blocks of colour flashed by the window as I travelled to Keukenhof by coach from Amsterdam.  We were passing the famous Dutch bulb fields.  On arrival, the luscious scent of hyacinths hits you as you queue to get in – it’s a place of sensory pleasure even on a chilly spring day.  Keukenhof means ‘Kitchen Garden’; in the 15^th century, herbs were grown here for aristocratic Countess Jacoba van Beieren’s Castle .

Every autumn seven million spring flower bulbs are planted – not just tulips but crocuses, daffodils, narcissi, hyacinths and lilies. Covering more than 30 hectares with 15 kilometers of footpaths you need some good walking shoes and plenty of stamina to take in all the attractions.  In the Historical Garden you get a feel for the history of the place with its grey stone walls showcasing older varieties of plants as well as herbs and flowering trees.  Stroll down Beech Lane, designed around 1850; on either side the flower beds flow in scented grace,  tempting the visitor to pause for a moment to take in their natural beauty.  Modern day tulip fever takes over as people jostle to get the perfect photo.  It’s a photographer’s dream – impossible not to be seduced by the colour, artistry and sheer exhuberance of this spring tapestry.

Each year Keukenhof chooses a different country as the central theme for the park.  When I went (2012) it was ’Poland – Heart of Europe’  This was particularly significant as it’s an increasing market for Dutch flower bulbs and many Polish tourists now visit Holland.  The show highlighted key figures such as the astronomer Copernicus, scientists Marie Curie and Fahrenheit, Pope John Paul II and the composer Frédéric Chopin. One of the most popular displays was the floral mosaic of this brilliant pianist.

As well as the meticulously laid-out gardens there are 5 large pavilions hosting flower shows of azaleas, lilies, orchids, anthuriums, bromelliads and many other exotic plants.  The Willlem-Alexander Pavilion is the largest, housing magnificent daffodil and tulip displays and before the Gardens close, a grand finale –  the world’s largest Lily Show.

There are whackily creative displays of the florist’s craft in the Oranje Nassau Pavilion which change every two weeks. They also reflect the annual theme, so musical notes hung from the ceiling to celebrate Mozart and Copernicus was remembered with starry baubles.  Used to the more conservative atmsosphere of British Flower Shows, I loved the exhibition in the Beatrix Pavilion where haughty models bedecked with all manner of vibrant flowery garments posed with insouciant charm.

In a corner of the grounds is a huge wooden Windmill, given to the park in 1957.  From the top you can take photos of the surrounding bulb fields and you get a great view of Mill Square and the gardens.  When I was there, a lively brass band was delighting the audience with their musical antics.  It was so different from our somewhat reverential brass bands seen in public parks around the country, usually watched by old folk falling to sleep in fading deck-chairs.  In their patriotic bright orange jackets and mischievous smiles, these musicians encouraged the audience to dance and young tourists dared each other to have their photos taken with this crazy gang of Dutch fun.

Dotted around are unusual and thought-provoking sculptures.  Artists are given the opportunity to exhibit their work to an international audience and their locations are carefully thought out.  The Zocher Garden in the centre of the park has a tranquil lake with elegant swans, a trefoil fountain and huge stepping stones.  Much to everyone’s delight there were a group of ‘swimmers’ bobbing up beside the huge stepping stones – a very quirky sight!

There are plenty of places to eat and refresh yourself in the Keukenhof gardens – search out the delicious Dutch waffles with syrup.  Should you wish to indulge in your own tulip fever, souvenir shops are available, selling everything from tulip bedecked ties, bulbs of every imaginable hue and scent, table napkins and the wooden flowers if you’ve not got green fingers.

I travelled to Holland on the Stena Line ferry from Harwich and stayed in Amsterdam at the uber-cool Citizen M hotel courtesy of Laterooms.  I can recommend the Pocket Rough Guide to Amsterdam by Martin Dunford.  Thanks to iamsterdam for organising the coach trip with Viator. The Keukenhof Gardens are open from mid March until May – check their website here for further details.

Tulips: as Cornelius says, ‘Do they not remind us of the transitory nature of beauty?’ Visit Keukenhof in the spring before they fade away …

For those of a certain age, St Moritz is synonymous with the über-cool jet-setters of the Swinging Sixties. Erstwhile playboy Gunter Sachs epitomised this hedonistic era when he married French pin-up movie star Brigitte Bardot. Gunter Sachs Lodge and The Dracula Club, overlooking the Olympic Bob Run course, are where the beautiful people still go to see and be seen.

The ‘Olympic Bob Run’ is the oldest in the world, initially created for winter guests from Great Britain who invented the sport of bobsleigh running. In 1897, the St. Moritz Bobsleigh Club was established.  The track served as host to the bobsleigh events for both the 1928 and the 1948 Winter Olympics.   Today it is one of the world’s best known bobsled runs, popular with both amateur and professional sports enthusiasts.

Arriving on a sunny day in late winter the place is a buzzing hive of testosterone, high-fashion and reflective sunglasses, mirroring the beautiful people at play.  Men in tight-fitting jackets jam protective helmets on their heads whilst photographers jostle for the best position to get the iconic shot.  There’s an air of expensive danger, jovial bonhomie and general excitement.  On the sunlit terraces a sophisticated murmur of polite chat chimes with champagne glasses chinking and beer glasses clinking. Pristine snow glistens in reflected sunshine and it looks like a glossy page from Vogue magazine … So it is with red-faced embarrassment that I recall my ignominious photo-call in these hallowed environs.

I was on a Railbookers train holiday to Switzerland; the day before we had arrived at St Moritz in style on the gloriously luxurious Glacier Express and we had been taken to the prestigious Olympic Club to have a look round. In front of the run was a bobsleigh and we were invited to have our photo taken. I got into the front position, sat back for my shot – and promptly disappeared down into the very nose of the bobsleigh.  And I couldn’t get out … All that was visible were my hands scrabbling to get a purchase on the slippery edge of the frame.

I got so weak laughing I was incapable of leveraging myself up. It was only when everyone had got their photos and finally stopped their hysterics that, with the help of my ‘friends’ and a couple of strapping sportsmen, I was finally hauled out, dusted off and able to pose properly for my photo.

It was fascinating watching the participants setting off on their exhilarating bobsleigh run.  Every few minutes two or three people crammed themselves into a metallic cylinder and were shoved off down the world’s only natural ice run, hurtling along 1722 metres of straights and round 14 named corners at speeds of up to 135 kph, and all over in about 75 seconds.

We left this exciting Swiss playground to walk into St Moritz Town Centre and there, just round the corner, was that other famous sporting venue of the Engadin region, the Cresta Run.  Started in the winter season 1884/85, it’s a men-only ‘skeleton bob’ addictive adrenalin rush spiked with danger and adventure just inches off the frozen track.  (Female Journalist Lisa Grainger did manage to do the run – you can read her death-defying account of it here.)

I stayed in 5-star pampered luxury at the Kempinksi Grand Hotel des Bains, one of St Moritz’ oldest hotels and the site of the St Mauritius Spring, after which the town is named. For over 2000 years people have been drinking from this spring.  In 1553 Paracelsus wrote about its medicinal benefits, recommending its health-giving waters, one of the most healing natural springs in Europe. Now situated in the Grand Hotel des Bains Spa, it is still open to the public.

I’d recommend a glass of its iron-rich water, perfect for revitalising after embarrassing photo-shoots!

The stream of clowns seemed endless, each group dressed in matching zingy, sherbet-bright costumes, gradually filling up the main promenade between the exuberantly decorated floats, marching bands and rich medley of characters that made up the extravaganza that is the Tenerife Carnival.

CARNIVAL – a festival marked by merrymaking and processions

Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday: a carnival held in some countries on Shrove Tuesday (the last day before Lent) but especially in New Orleans and Rio de Janiero

Carnevale: from Old Italian carnelevare, Shrovetide : carne, meat + levare, to remove

I was upstairs on a big red, open-top bus on Santa Cruz promenade the waiting for the main procession of the carnival to get under way … We’d been there for almost two hours, so even by Spanish mañana standards it was a long time!  This did, however, give us a unique opportunity to see some of the amazingly intricate costumes and floats that make this one of the biggest carnivals in the world.  This year’s theme was ‘Bollywood’ and there were some beautiful Indian-influenced outfits, but to be honest, the overall vision was simply colour, glitz and vibrancy. The atmosphere was electric as adults, children and a couple of geese made their preparations for the biggest day of the year.

As a picture paints a thousand words, I’ll save you some reading time and share some of the scenes that I saw during this time.  If you can imagine an accompaniment of a very loud and excitable troupe of drummers plus various bands providing entertainment for the waiting crowds, you’ll get an idea of the sounds that accompanied this marvellous melee.

There was a great deal of adjusting of costumes, trying on of hats, practising marching, putting finishing touches to exotic makeup, twiddling with accoutrements and a huge amount of noisy laughter. 

Children of all ages were kitted out in very professional-looking costumes and were high as kites with excitement. Adults tried to keep them in place but quite a few went walk-about whilst others were kept happy with bags of crips and fizzy drinks.

As well as the groups who were marching on foot there were, of course, a great many floats.  I’d never been to a ‘real’ carnival and to be so close to these wonderful creations didn’t spoil the magic one bit.  I walked up to the head of the procession before it set off and was fortunate to get in front of the Tenerife Carnival Queen as she was getting ready for the start and posing for photographers. Even without her headress she was simply lovely and clearly enjoying all the fuss.

With the rather lengthy delay, some of the participants got rather tired so there were a few who took time out to have a sit down and rest before the procession set off.

And for one or two people, the anticipation all got too much so they grabbed the chance for a quick kip …

Eventually we heard that the parade had set off and our guide, Ancor, decided that we should abandon the bus and start walking alongside to get a real feel of what it was like to take part in the Tenerife Carnival.  So that’s what we did – and I’ll tell you about that and the crazy party nights before and after, another time.

I travelled to the lovely Canary isle of Tenerife, off the coast of Africa, courtesy of Tenerife Tourism and stayed in 5 Star luxury at the Mencey Hotel in the heart of Santa Cruz.

Oh yes, those geese. Here they are, in quite possibly the most understated outfits of the whole parade …

There is something wonderfully compelling about the statue of Eric Morecambe on the promenade overlooking Morecambe Bay in Lancashire … Virtually everyone who sees it has to pose for their photo in that dancey, head-on-one side, hopping-on-one foot stance he made so famous in the 60s, 70s and 80s.  He has his back to one of the loveliest views in the country as Morecambe promenade faces out to the beautiful Lake District fells across the deceptively peaceful sands of the Bay.

Eric Morecambe was an English comedian who formed the award-winning double act Morecambe and Wise with fellow northerner Ernie Wise. He took his stage name from his home town of Morecambe in the north west of England.  This larger-than-life statue was created by sculptor Graham Ibbeson and was unveiled by the Queen at Morecambe in July 1999, the same year he was voted Britain’s funniest person of the 20th century.  The sculpture  is surrounded by inscriptions of many of his favourite catchphrases and a lengthy list of the many famous guest stars who appeared on the show.  They include The Beatles, Tom Jones, Laurence Olivier, Glenda Jackson, Shirley Bassey, Angela Rippon and perhaps most famously, the conductor Andre Previn.

Not far along the Promenade is the recently restored Art Deco Midland Hotel, where another famous sculptor, Eric Gill, created some very fine murals and sculptures that grace the building, adding a touch of glamour to this traditional English seaside town.  Opposite is Brucciani’s Ice Cream Parlour next to the red-brick Victorian Winter Gardens, venue for many famous names from the days when Morecambe was a very popular seaside resort, attracting big names from theatre and other performing arts.  It’s still waiting rather forlornly for enough funding to be restored to its former lively wondrousness.

The spirit of Eric must be very happy to see his life-like presence giving so much pleasure to so many – and will hopefully continue to do so for many years to come …

“Found it!  Oh no, maybe not …”

“It’s over here.”

“That’s not it. Look. The mountain’s in the wrong place.”

“If I lean over the river I think I’ve got it …”

Rydal Bridge – photo by Zoë Dawes

This was the conversation ricocheting around the Cumbrian fells as three of us tried to pinpoint the exact place artist Joseph Farington had painted his watercolour of Rydal Bridge in the 1700s.  Eventually we all agreed on roughly the right spot, though it seemed quite different today. What do your think?

Rydal Bridge – watercolour by Joseph Farington RA

You see, the river seemed to have changed its course, the road is now in a slightly different place and we couldn’t see the fell because of the trees’ foliage and the mist from the drizzle … All part of the fun of the Wordsworth Trust’s new Smartphone App.

Back in 1769, a famous writer and poet called Thomas Gray went on a walking tour of the Lake District and wrote a descriptive journal about where he went and what he saw. It was the first example of modern travel writing with its vivid descriptions of the 18th century scenery.  A few years later an artist called Joseph Farington used a copy of Gray’s journal to follow in his footsteps, painting the scenes that Gray had described.

Pen, Paint & Pixels Exhibition

Fast forward to the 21st century - John Murray, a publisher from London, inherited Gray’s original notebooks and decided to do exactly what Farington did almost 250 years before. He found the locations and took digital photographs of the views, illustrated in his book ‘A Tour of the English Lakes’.  The words, pictures and photos inspired an exhibition at the Wordsworth Museum, Grasmere, called Pen, Paint & Pixels, on until January 2013.   Their App enables the visitor to go on a sort of treasure hunt in search of the actual sites.

Rydal Falls – photo by Zoë Dawes

Consulting the excellent App, which uses the latest Satellite technology, Google and Ordnance Survey maps, we then set off to find the next gem – Rydal Falls.    What’s really good about the App is that there are copies of the original paintings and engravings plus often Grey’s descriptions and even hints on how to find the right spot.  Our greatest challenge was the occasionally intermittent signal which sometimes meant a delay in getting info – but that added to the adventure!  Not too far from Rydal Bridge we found the Falls, in one of the most delightful viewing positions you could imagine.  I won’t spoil the surprise but believe me, it is an absolute treat – AND, it is virtually identical today to when Joseph Farington did this pretty sketch. 

Rydal Falls – sepia sketch by Joseph Farington

There are sites all over the Lake District including Bassenthwaite, Derwentwater and Borrowdale, Ullswater and Patterdale, to Windermere via Rydal and Ambleside.  Read my review of the Pen Paint & Pixels Exhibition and go to The Wordsworth Trust site for more information.