Quirky Traveller's Tales

In the fifth of the ‘Challenge Zoë’ activities for The Kendal Courier  I had an extremely indulgent pampering session at local Bellissimo Beauty Salon.  Here’s a version of the original article that appeared in the magazine.

Now you may be wondering quite how such an ‘adventure’ could possibly come under the title ‘Challenge Zoë’.  Well, let’s just say I find it very difficult to justify spending time on myself when I ‘should’ be working, looking after my son, planning the next article and fretting about not doing the housework.  So when The Kendal Courier Editor Dan asked if I’d like to try out have a couple of beauty treatments for my next assignment, I was round there before you could say ‘aromatherapy massage’ …

Situated on Stramongate in the heart of Kendal, Bellissimo Beauty Studio owner Sue Nicholson immediately made me feel welcome, with a friendly smile and offer of tea or coffee.  (Unlike some places where you feel as you’re being assessed the minute you walk through the door.)  I loved the contemporary black and white décor and spacious  reception – calming with a hint of luxury.   After I had filled in a rather lengthy questionnaire on my current health and beauty regime (what?!) beauty therapist Fiona took me downstairs to the treatment room.

There followed the most heavenly two hours of luxurious relaxation and rejuvenation I have had in a very long time.  Fiona explained the treatment I had booked – the Indulgent Beauty Package (£72).  First she was going to give me a head, shoulders and back massage and asked how I liked it – firm, medium or strong.  Medium/strong please.  Then she’d apply Aroma Boost facial using Eve Taylor products.  “I’ll start with a purifying wash using a special cleansing brush, then a deep cleanse followed by exfoliant, accompanied by arm and hand massage.  I’ll apply a soothing aromatic masque and whilst that’s taking effect I’ll give you a leg and foot massage.  Finally you’ll have a moisturiser to suit your skin type followed by a spritz of toner to seal all products onto the skin.” It all sounded good to me so I lay back and put myself in her very capable and soothing hands. 

I really appreciated that she didn’t talk during the session so I could totally unwind with just background music as accompaniment.  The massage was extremely effective and managed to unravel some of the knots caused by spending too much time in front of the computer.  The delicious scents from the facial made me feel nice and relaxed; as you can see from the picture above I almost dozed off during it.  After that treatment I had a quick pedicure, choosing a vibrant shade of pillar box red nail varnish to celebrate the new me.

I floated out of Bellissimo Beauty Salon feeling totally refreshed, vowing not to leave it too long before I was ‘challenged’ like this again!

Read about my next Challenge – in an electric car called The Twizy at Langdale Hotel – great fun

On St George’s Day, April 23rd, I spent a magical time photographing Lake District daffodils, exploring an evocative old house that Wordsworth used to live in and discovering that sheep may safely graze in Dora’s Field. Spring is the perfect time of year to visit one of Britain’s favourite destinations. Here’s what I did over a few hours …

The drive from Carnforth to Grasmere is such a pleasure. I went up the A6 through the little market town of Milnthorpe, past the ancient topiary gardens at Levens Hall and on to the A591 past Kendal. As you dip down to the Crook roundabout you get to your first really good view of the Lake District fells. It always lifts my heart and reminds me why I live in this part of the world.  Then it was on towards Windermere, along the lakeshore, past the long, white frontage of the Low Wood Bay Hotel, beside peaceful Rydal Water and into historic Grasmere village with its lovely lake.

In spring the village blooms into life as a ‘host of golden daffodils’ made famous by local poet, William Wordsworth, seem to be permanently ‘fluttering and dancing in the breeze.’  My first stop was to pay a quick visit to the poet’s family grave in ancient St Oswald’s churchyard.  In the summer it is almost impossible to get close to what has become a shrine for visitors from around the world, but this time there was just a solitary American.  ”Which William is the right one?” he asked, looking over at two old tombstones with the same names … A couple of past-their-best daffodils sagged disconsolately in front of their champion’s simple stone.

He then wandered off to visit quaint Dove Cottage and I went into the Wordsworth Daffodil Garden.  Here many people have sponsored a personally engraved slate paving stone, a shrub, or a wild daffodil and there’s an air of peace and tranquility that the poet laureate would have very much appreciated.

Sitting on a wooden bench it was a joy to listen to the River Rothay burbling away under the stone bridge, the ducks quacking as they started house-building for their forthcoming families and the many birds singing their little hearts out in the spring sunshine.

Suddenly the sun disappeared. You may know the saying ‘Ne’er cast a clout till May is out’, which could refer to the month or the blossom.  Well, in Cumbria it’s best to be prepared all year round. As well as my sturdy walking boots and waterproof jacket I had decided to try out some thermals I’d been sent by Universal Textiles. Now, I’ll be honest here and say that for the past few years, I’ve been wearing an almost threadbare set that had belonged to my aunt, which probably boasted a tog-factor of 2. So I was very pleased to be sporting a set of beautifully soft white long-johns and vest (I know – not sexy but sooooo warm – and NO PHOTO!) keeping me cosy as it went decidedly cooler.  Apparently they are worn by the ‘World’s Most Travelled Man’ Fred Finn and what’s good enough for Fred …

Opposite St Olaf’s, next to the cottage of world-renowned Story-Teller Taffy Thomas, is the National Trust shop in an old house called Church Stile. I popped in to see Chris Shaw, who’s a mine of information on Grasmere and the surrounding area.   She suggested I go up the road to visit Allan Bank, one of the National Trust’s latest properties to open to the public, where I could enjoy the views and get a free cup of coffee.  After a quick look round the shop, picking up a few information leaflets, I walked through village and up the short hill to the large cream house overlooking the lake.

Allan Bank has a fascinating history; Wordsworth lived here, as did co-founder of the National Trust, Canon Rawnsley who left it to the Trust.  Badly burned in a fire in 2011, it was finally opened to the public in 2012.  The wonderful thing is, the NT have left it virtually undecorated but created unique spaces where children can play, artists can create and everyone can enjoy a unique atmosphere that seems to positively force visitors to slow down and relax.  Dave Almond explained some of the work being done at present – the gardens are being restored and the public are being consulted at all times to ensure Allan Bank doesn’t lose its special appeal.  The enormous Tweetcloud above the entrance hall fireplace sums up the feelings this charming place evokes.

The final stop of the day was Dora’s Field in nearby Rydal.  When Wordsworth’s daughter Dora died in 1847, the poet was devastated. He’d given her this plot of land near to his home, Rydal Mount, and in memory of her he planted thousands of daffodils - the tiny ones often found in woods and beside lakes.  Every spring they produce a glorious display.  And there, chomping away on stubby grass (and possibly the daffs) were a couple of other lakeland favourites, Herdwick Sheep.  These study animals are bred to survive the Cumbrian climate and high fells;  they have thick, dark, wiry wool and smiley white faces.

At the top of the field there’s an old bench and from here I caught a glimpse of one of my favourite lakes, Rydal Water, still visible through the skeletal trees. I sat there for a long time, just listening to the sheep grazing and the rustling of a myriad of bright yellow Lake District daffodils …

Chatsworth House: a brilliant-cut diamond in the diadem of richly decorated stately homes scattered around Britain.  Settled snuggly in the bosom of the Peak District, the very first National Park in the UK, it is a treasure trove of rich delight.  I visited Chatsworth one Easter and went on a quirky Duck Hunt around the house and gardens.  Here are some impressions of its eye-catching artistic treasures …

Perched nonchalently on top of a flirtatious Greek goddess’s head sits a large yellow duck.  Flora seems quite unconcerned as she beckons visitors into her Temple, built by the 1st Duke of Devonshire in 1695.  On entering the house I have been given a map and todl to look out for the ‘easter Ducks’ hidden about the place.  This is typical of Chatsworth House; as one of this country’s largest and most popular historic houses, it would be easy to assume it has a somewhat venerable, maybe even pompous idea of its own importance – but that is very far from reality.

 An enormous marble foot lies in a corridor as if dropped by a Roman Cinderella, causing the visitor to speculate on the size and shape of the missing body, fashioned by some ancient sculptor who could never have imagined its present position. Around every corner is curious treasure to delight, intrigue and challenge the viewer.  The Cavendish family have owned this property since the 16^th century and evidence of their tastes and quirks permeate every corner.

 Another duck is found in a cabinet of tiny filligree objects, dwarfing a delicate carriage and hihg-backed chair.  Henry VIII’s Rosary curls along a cabinet in front of a box of emerald green-handled cutlery.  A fluorescent portrait magically changes colour at you look at it.  Under the stairs lies an ancient sleigh which used to be pulled by the family goat.  A couple of impressive lions lie on either side of a doorway guarding a room crammed full of stuary from antiquity, purchased by adventurous 6^th Duke of Devonshire in a lifetime of spend, spend, spend.

In a dressing room beside a fancy bedroom slept in by countless members of the aristocracy, is a rack of varied garments for kiddies to dress up in and play at being lords and ladies.  Taking pride of place in the Great Chamber, largest of the State Apartments (added by the first Duke for William and Mary, who thoughtlessly never visited) a large ceramic ‘buffet’is decorated with curlicues of flowers, festoons of fruit and gold platters with the bust of a child centre stage.  A delftware vase has flowers peeping out of a blue and white pagoda. The dining room is laid out with the most splendid array of silver gilt and shining tableware, ready for a visit by her Majesty Queen Victoria and sailing across the damsk tablecloth is another yellow duck …

In the Music room a violin appears to be magically suspended from a door and the very vain 6^th Duke had 9 leather and gold-embossed portraits of himself made to adorn the walls.    In the Library, Old Masters including drawings and prints by Rafael and Van Dyck can be found alongside quirky, colourful birds by the great American artist John James Audobon.

‘A Sounding Line’ by Edmund de Waal – photo Chatsworth

A line of white porcelain pipes sit on top of a shelf.  ‘A Sounding Line’ installation by Edmund de Waal (author of ‘Hare with the Amber Eyes’)  was created specifically for Chapel Corridor at Chatsworth and is evidence of more recent family intrigue with contemporary art.  ”The Cavendish family’s collections have been changing and growing since the 1550s, reflecting the tastes and enthusiasms of each generation.  The 12th Duke of Devonshire and his family continue this tradition at Chatsworth, and you can see around the house and gardens today a number of the new acquisitions that have been added in recent years.”

Waterfalls, fountains and cascades sprinkle the estate with plumes of iridescent watery rainbows.  Hidden in flowery nooks and tree-covered crannies are  numerous sculptures and architectural oddities.  Wicked Pan tootles on his pipes in a shady arbour ignored by the duck getting a shower from the copper Willow Tree, described by Princess Victoria as ‘the squirting tree.’

A proud profile lies amongst flowering shrubs and a wicked-looking satyr’s head sits incongruously atop a fluted column. Banana palms thrust upwards towards the sun in a glass-framed conservatory and visitors go round in circles in the green-hedged labyrinth.  As I leave the gardens I spot another duck floating calmly along the 18th c Canal beside one of the River Gods lolling on his stone bed …

As a souvenir of my visit I bought a copy of ’The Garden at Chatsworth’ written (and signed) by Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire. It’s a beautiful tribute to this glorious place, written in a personal and lively style. Outlining Chatsworth’s history from 1549 when Bess of Hardwick bought the land to the present day, there are architectural drawings, paintings and etchings plus superbly-shot photographs of the estate through the ages and all seasons.  It’s clear that the Duchess cherishes the place over which she was chatelaine for so long.

In the Preface she says,  “The garden I have known from dawn to dusk for fifty years owes its existence to masters and men of exceptional talent … No one person designed the garden at Chatsworth. It has evolved according to the taste of successive Dukes of Devonshire, unshackled by committees.  Every style of gardening has been tried; some have survived and some have disappeared … Several times the landscape was changed as if it were a putty model … The ‘Elysian Fields’ were created to please anyone who cares to come here.” 

The Twizy is quite simply fantastic fun on four wheels. It’s a tiny electric car that thinks it’s a Ferrari. And when you drive one you’ll get as much attention, if not more, as if you were driving one of the most iconic cars in the world.  For the sixth of the ‘Challenge Zoë’ adventures for the Kendal Courier I whizzed off round the little lanes of the southern Lake District to test it out.  Here’s the article that appeared in the December edition of the magazine. 

 “Oh, it’s adorable … What is it?”  The American woman’s response was typical. Everywhere I went in the Twizy, people smiled, took photos, and wanted to have a go.  I explained that it was an electric car and yes, of course she and her friends could all take photos.  Then I was off again on my silent way through the lovely lanes of the Lake District.

An hour or so earlier I had left the Langdale Hotel, where I was staying, having been given a quick briefing on how to drive the Twizy.  “It’s very easy. All you do is turn on the engine, put it into Drive and off you go.  It’ll do at least 40 miles before it needs charging and here’s a map showing routes and free Charge points.  You could head over to the L’al Ratty via the best drive in the Lake District or go over Kirkstone Pass to the Ullswater Steamer. Or just have a wander about the villages and country roads.”

Guests at the hotel can hire a Twizy for £10 per hour.  They are part of Cumbria tourism’s Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ transport initiative which includes lots of interesting ideas about how to travel around the Lake District.  The Langdale Estate leases the vehicles from Co-Wheels Car Club which provide an eco-friendly alternative to private car use.

 When I parked near the ferry at Ambleside, people gathered round, asking questions and taking photos.  As I pushed up the gull-wing door to get out, there was a little “aaah” from the audience.  A group of Air Cadets insisted on having their picture taken with me holding a mascot and they had lots of questions.

Yes, you can charge it from an ordinary plug, top speed’s about 50 miles per hour and yes, it is a bit chilly with no windows so wrap up warm.   And there are a number of places in the Lakes where you can hire them.  But be warned  – you won’t go unnoticed. This tiny vehicle really has got the X-Factor … and it is so much fun to drive!

You can read more about my stay at the luxurious Langdale Hotel here and experience of Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ sustainable travel initiative here.

“Ah, you’ve got Room 105.  Very special.  You’re going to love it.”  When the charming guy carrying your bag tells you that, after you’ve checked in to a hotel, you could be forgiven for a slight air of scepticism.  After all, he’s not likely to say, “Oh Room 105 – poor you.”  However, when he opened the door I saw exactly what he meant.  In front of me were TWO seductively curvaceous baths facing out towards a huge bed, a spacious seating area, large bowl of fresh fruit, bedroom slippers, fluffy bathrobe, quality toiletries, huge flat screen TV and iPod deck.  It’s not often I’m really impressed by a hotel bedroom but this time – oh yes.

The room exuded warm, seductive charm – the only drawback was that I didn’t have a warm, seductive guy to share the romantic atmosphere with.  The Langdale Hotel describes it as “Luxurious, Cool, Romantic, Unusual, Stunning, Contemporary, Surprising, Fun, Naughty, Cheeky, Relaxing, Exciting, Different.” Yep, I’d agree with that – and add ‘Quality Quirky’ to the list!

I’d been invited to see for myself what the Langdale offers their hotel or timeshare property guests and also to test drive the Twizy, a tiny electric car that is causing more of a stir on the roads and lanes of the Lake District than any Ferrari or Porsche would.  A quick wander round the hotel was enough to see that there’s every facility you could wish for on a luxury holiday, whether for a family, on a romantic break, business trip or solo traveller like me.  Here are a just three of my favourite things:

• The Langdale Spa – having a facial or massage is always a real treat. When you can combine both in one blissfully relaxing session then tis heaven indeed.  Spoilt for choice with an extensive menu of treatments, beautician Louise suggested I opt for the Elemis Face & Body Sensations which promised a “thermal-soothing massage followed by an anti-ageing facial designed to restore youthful radiance.”  What she actually gave me was an hour or so of sheer relaxation and  indulgence and I certainly FELT rejuvenated, whatever the age I looked …

• The Swimming Pool – with 20 metres to paddle up and down in I could happily avoid the half-term kiddies splashing around and then take a few minutes time-out in the ‘Sanarium’, a Scandinavian-type wooden cabin combining the heat of the sauna with the less dry atmosphere of a steam room. And no, I was not tempted to try the chilly ‘deluge shower’.

• Purdey’s Restaurant – now this is where the Langdale exceeded my expectations by a country mile.  I’d been told the food was very good, but then you’d expect that in a luxury hotel of this calibre.  What I was not prepared for was dishes that would merit a Michelin Star and provide a superb sensory sensation.  Having opted for the Tasting Menu, which at £49.50 is excellent value, I was presented with plate after scrumptious plate of divine taste bombs.  Outstanding was the combination of roast artichokes, Scottish girolles & crunchy samphire. But the craziest dish, which surprisingly worked really well. was the lemon meringue cheesecake & raspberries with a heady basil sorbet.  Masterly, Chef …

After a great night’s sleep wallowing in king-size splendour, I was back in Purdey’s for breakfast.  The restaurant was buzzing as people fueled up for a day out in the autumnal Lakeland sunshine.   Now it was time for my Quirky Travel adventure in the Twizy.  The cute little electric car was fully charged and it’s really easy to drive.  Switch engine on, foot down and off you go.  It charges from an ordinary plug socket and there are power points around the south Lake District.  And what an eye-catching little wowzer it is!

I drove out along the Langdale Valley, through Ambleside and up to Grasmere, relishing the autumnal colours whilst wishing I had brought some gloves, as the car doesn’t have windows.  It has a neat turn of speed and is easy to manoeuvre.  As you probably know, electric cars are virtually silent from the outside (though not from the inside!) so I had to be careful not give the Lake District walkers a heart attack as I crept up behind them on the narrow country lanes.  Everywhere I went people smiled, children laughed and it was more photographed than James Bond’s Aston Martin … With a battery distance of 40+ miles I didn’t need to recharge and was really sad to have to hand back the keys a couple of hours later.  (More details of my trip in The Kendal Courier magazine and to be posted on the blog shortly.)

The Langdale Hotel leases the Twizys from the Co-Wheels Car Club so their hotel and timeshare guests can hire one from just £10 an hour.  Great value for one of the most fun ways to get around the Lake District.

Many thanks to the staff at the lovely Langdale Hotel for making my stay so enjoyable and for that gorgeous bedroom.  Find them on Face Book here. You can discover other interesting ways to get around the south Lake District, including ferries and electric bikes, with Go Lakes ‘Drive Less, See More’ campaign.

Swallows swooped on the evening air, the sky turned a delicate shade of pink-streaked blue and the vino-quaffing audience shushed each other as trumpets sounded across the lawn.

“Now is the winter of our discontent, made glorious summer by this sun of York” boomed menacing Richard III in his famous opening lines, beside a colourful herbaceous border at Leighton Hall.  Is there anything more English and ever so slightly bonkers than risking all to attend an outdoor theatrical performance, especially in the North West?  Our summers can be wet, cool and windy and yet still we book our tickets and keep our fingers crossed for a fine night.  So just imagine what faith The Festival Players must have to travel all over the UK performing outdoors in all weathers.  And on the August evening my son and I went to lovely Leighton Hall to see their all-male production of Richard III, the weather gods smiled on us all.

The gardens of Leighton Hall are a beautiful setting for one of Shakespeare’s most thrilling plays.  Its gothic façade and solid greystone tower provide a suitably historic backdrop and the gardens are a brilliant counterpoint to the cunning machinations of one of literature’s greatest Machiavellian villains.  Director Michael Dyer explained, “The actual King (Richard III) was almost certainly not as evil as his counterpart in the play but the Bard’s imagination gives us a character of engaging flamboyance in a fast flowing tale that cannot fail to thrill.”  This performance had an added realism from Shakespeare’s days – all the characters were played by men, including Queen Margaret, Queen Elizabeth, the Duchess of York and Lady Anne.

“I am determined to prove a villain, and hate the idle pleasure of these days.” David Lee-Jones was a suitably threatening murderer with a charming twist. His knowing glances at the audience kept everyone in on the macabre joke as he used wily words to bend all to his wicked will.  As the light dimmed the play became even more atmospheric, with bats swooping low and owls hooting across the fells.  

He finally met his come-uppance after a very impressive murder-fest, cutting a swathe through the Plantagenet English monarchy in less than two hours.   Leighton Hall had never seen such marvellous mayhem.  By the time he was yelling for a horse, a horse on Bosworth Field (aka the lawn) we were all delighted that he was about to meet his match at the hands of Lancastrian Earl of Richmond (Scott Smith).  The final words of the play echoed out appropriately across the night-darkened, beautiful grounds,

“Now civil wounds are stopp’d, peace lives again:

That she may long live here, God say Amen!”

Leighton Hall, on the Lancashire – Cumbria border, hosts a number of event throughout the year – one of my favourites is the Classic Car Rally.