Quirky Traveller's Tales

If you’ve been to Iceland you’ll understand the singer Björk.  Born and raised in Reykjavik, she epitomises this country’s quirky, eclectic energy.  Visitors on holiday can get a brief glimpse of Iceland’s natural attractions and history by doing The Golden Circle, including Gulfoss (Golden Waterfall), the geothermal filed of Haukadalur where Strokkur geyser erupts very few minutes and the UNESCO World Heritage site, Þingvellir National Park where the original Parliament met.  All this is can be done in a day trip from Reykjavik, Iceland’s historic and vibrant capital city.

In spite of a very changeable climate that Brits will feel at home in and those from warmer countries may find ‘challenging’, Reykjavik is one of the party capitals of Europe.  Lively techno and hard rock bars vie with cool cafes and trendy eateries.  But it’s the fascinating cultural scene, unusual architecture, every-changing seascapes and crisp, sparkling air that I loved.  Standing on The Square  one look at the unassuming, low level Alþing (Parliament House) tells you that this is a country that seems at ease with its identity and has no need to dominate. The white-walled Cathedral next door would not look out of place in a provincial town.  And that’s the secret of Reykjavik’s appeal – it’s small, accessible and utterly charming.

The best way to explore the city is on foot. In a few hours you can see all the main sights ‘downtown’ – we had a guide but it’s not difficult to navigate.  With the sea on one side and linear streets you can’t get too lost.  In front of the Tourist Information Centre on little Faxaflói Square we were shown a rather strange looking sculpture of tall concrete stakes with steam coming from the running water.  Apparently this represents the founding of the city when a Norwegian Viking settler farmed this land and called it ‘Reykjavik’ aka ‘steamy/smoky bay.’

At the nearby Landnamssyningin (Settlement Exhibition) I tried to imagine what ancient island life was like around 1000 AD from the remnants of a turf wall and some Viking objects.  Can’t say I succeeded but worth a try …  Much more appealing was the Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in House No 10 Aðalstræti,  said to be the oldest wooden house in centre of the city. As you can imagine, these houses are prone to fire and decay being so near the sea so it is amazing that any have survived.  There was an intriguing collection of pottery, jewellery, household utensils and clothes, all with a definite Icelandic twist in their creation and construction.

Shoppers are well catered for with a great mix of international names and very high quality local  brands.  In the city’s largest shopping centre, Kringlan (a few minutes’ drive from the heart of the city, you’ll find names like Karen Illen, Deisel, Next, Zara and Hugo Boss.  One of the most well-known local names is 66°North, created in 1926 to provide outdoor clothing to protect the fishermen and labourers from the extremes of Arctic weather. Now uber-fashionable, their garments combine practicality and contemporary design.  I got a very snug fleece that looks good and is very cosy on the Lake District fells in winter!  If you have time, just go off the main streets to discover quirky little shops selling all manner of tempting goodies.

Laugavegur is the main shopping street.  Woollen items are a favourite and the Hand-knitting Association of Iceland has a couple of shops in town.  Or you could try a quirky chocolate volcano on an iced cake from a bespoke chocolatier …

Heading towards busy Hafn (harbour) we could smell the fishing boats before we saw them.  Serious looking craft bedecked with industrial-strength nets were bobbing about near the ferries, a military vessel and other shipping that regularly sail around these chilly waters.

Looming over it all like some enormous honeycomb is the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre.  Home to the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra, this state-of-the-art building was only completed in 2011.  Music concerts, opera , art exhibitions and international conferences are held all year round  and there are a couple of shops as well as an excellent restaurant.  Eating a delicious lunch of fresh seafood and local dishes we had a breath-taking view of the harbour’s icy blue waters as the sun shimmered through the geometric windows.

This is a glimpse of a few of the highlights of Reykjavik’s attractions.  Look out for the next article on the city’s Art Museum and Culture House, lovely Lake Tjörnin, a boat trip to Viday Island,  a privileged glimpse inside the Höfði House, where Gorbachov and Reagan met for the Reykjavik summit and a visit to the Presidential Palace to meet the outgoing Icelandic President.

I travelled to Iceland courtesy of easyJet, now offering regular flights and holidays to quirkilicious Iceland, and stayed at the luxurious Hotel Borg, in the heart of the city on Parliament Square.

Read about my exciting experience of The Golden Circle here.

With his hands clutching his long, flowing coat tightly around him, Sir William Hillary (1771-1841) stands high above Douglas Harbour, ready to face everything the weather can throw at him.  As founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution he was well aware of the changeable  meteorological temperament of his home, the Isle of Man.  The weather can shift from clear blues skies, to torrential rain and back again in an afternoon – which adds to this island’s unpredictable charm.  ’Tis said that the ancient sea god Manannan Mac Lir lays his cloak of cloud across his isle to protect it from invaders – but modern-day islanders welcome visitors who come in peace any day. …

Floating in the Irish Sea about 60 miles off the Lancashire – Cumbria coast, en route to the United States, this tiny island has an ancient history that belies its size.  Norse rulers established a system of self-government over a thousand years ago and the Tynwald is still in power today.  The islanders enjoy a laid-back approach to life akin to their Gaelic neighbours in nearby Ireland and the Manx phrase traa dy-liooar is similar to mañana in Spain.

With so many attractions for people of all ages, a weekend is not nearly long enough.  I visited the island as a child and chose to return on a blog trip when I won ‘Britain’s Best Travel Blogger 2011′.  Here are my 7 quirky things to do on the Isle of Man.

1.  Spot the Isle of Man icons

There are two very famous symbols of the Isle of Man - the Manx Cat and the Legs of Man.  The cat is ‘a breed of domestic cat with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail.  Manx cats are prized as skilled hunters, and thus have often been sought by farmers with rodent problems and been a preferred ship’s cat. They are said to be social, tame and active. An old local term for the cats on their home island is stubbin.’ (Wikipedia). You may not see a real Manx cat but there are plenty of them in souvenir shops.

The Legs of Man symbol depicts three legs, said to represent the wheels of the sun. This is known as a Triskelion and is also the symbol of Sicily. Its oldest representation is on the 12^th Century Manx Sword of State. My favourite depiction of this quirky symbol is the sculpture that greets you as you come out of the Airport.  See how many representations you can find during your stay – you’ll soon lose count!

2.   View Douglas Harbour from the Victorian Camera Obscura

One of the quirky legacies the Victorians left us is the Camera Obscura. In the days before TVs, cinema and the internet, these optical lenses were the latest technology and must have seemed quite magical. The Great Union Camera Obscura on the Isle of Man was purpose-built for the tourists rather than the more common astronomical use.  Even today, with all our amazing technology there is something awe-inspiring about viewing Douglas harbour and the surrounding scenery through the upturned mirror. You can get a glimpse of Observatory building in the photo of Sir Hillary above. Check opening times and the weather; If the flag is flying it’s open.

3.  Get a taste of the island with Manx Kippers

When I was a child we used to get the ferry to Douglas and Dad would head straight for the fish-mongers for his favourite treat – Manx kippers.  Traditionally herring fillets, caught locally, are smoked over oak chips in old smoke houses.  The best place to buy these is in Peel, on the island’s west coast.  The smell of smoking fish wafts all over this quaint harbour town so it’s not difficult to find the Peel Kipper House – just follow your nose. If you’re really taken with this local food, you can get a huge kipper bun at the harbour fish van – however, that was too much of a good thing for me … Dominating the town is Peel Castle, an evocative reminder of the land’s battle with invaders.  Whilst you’re in Peel make sure you visit the excellent House of Manannan which has a really interesting interactive history of the island.

4.  Discover the enormous Basking Shark

Basking shark – photo c/o boatrips-isleofman.com

Basking sharks, the world’s second largest fish visits these waters between May and August and come very close to land the plankton which floats on the water’s surface when it isn’t windy.  You’ve got a good chance of seeing them around Peel, Port Erin or Niarbyl.  If you want a better view there are plenty of boat trips. (I was supposed to go out on the good ship Pegasus on my last visit but the sea was too rough – another reason to go back.)  As well as basking sharks you may spot seals and a huge variety of sea birds including the funky puffin.

5.  Get a sensory history lesson in Castle Rushen

Castletown was originally the island’s capital and Castle Rushen is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe.  Norse kings fortified this strategic site guarding the entrance to the delightfully named Silverburn River.  Its impressive limestone walls overlook the little port and Nautical Museum and the castle can be seen for miles around.   Its courthouse is still in use and there are regular events throughout the season to entertain and attract visitors.  Inside there are interactive displays and evocative sights, sounds and even smells from centuries past.  The dining room recreates a banquet from medieval times with some very dodgy looking characters presiding over the table.  (For an even quirkier experience if you time it right, go across the road to the Old House of Keys where, for an hour or so, you can become a ‘member of the island’s parliament’ and ‘vote’ in a debate.)

6.  Step back in time at Cregneash Folk Museum

Heading south west towards the Calf of Man, a tiny rocky outcrop separated from the mainland by The Sound you pass a sign to Cregneash National Folk Museum.  Take time to stop and wander around this ‘living museum’.  The tiny thatched whitewashed cottages are still inhabited and on the working farm demonstrations of traditional crafts such as weaving, black-smithing and carpentry are given.  Sea birds swoop overhead, crazy-faced Loaghtan sheep bleat and baa and the delicious smell of home cooking drifts out from the Village Tea Room.  Step into simple St Peter’sChurch, one of many dotted around the island, and take time to embrace the tranquility its cool interior offers.

 7.  Pay homage to ‘Lady Isabella’

 No visit to the Isle of Man is complete without a trip to Great Laxey Wheel, named ‘Lady Isabella’  after Lieutenant Governor Hope’s wife.  Built in 1854, the world’s largest working water wheel has an impressive beauty that belies its industrial heritage.  It has a diameter of 72ft and a circumference of 227ft. It used to pump up to 250 gallons of water a minute from the nearby Laxey mines. These mines produced zinc, lead, copper and silver until 1929.  If you’ve a head for heights you can climb to the top of the wheel and if you’re not claustrophobic go underground in the mines to get an idea of the tough working conditions of the past.  Very close by is the temrinus for the famous Snaefell Mountain Railway (one of many quirky ways of getting around this isle).  This is slow travel at its best – a leisurely 5-mile ascent past the Laxey Wheel, the TT Course at Bungalow Station and on to the often cloud-bedecked summit at 2,000 feet.

I stayed in the lovely seaside town on Port St Mary at the very quirky Aaron House with its Victorian interior and afternoon tea to rival the Ritz.  Getting to the Isle of Man is simple: Manx2 has regular flights from around the UK and there are regular ferries, fast and slow, from Heysham, Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.  Many thanks to Visit Isle of Man for a fascinating itinerary – they provide excellent tourist information on everything you need to know about the memorable and fascinating Isle of Man.

 Read more about the Isle of Man here

‘Is it not strange, this madness that has gripped us?’ asks Cornelius.

‘What madness?’ asks the painter.

‘Have you surrendered to the passion yet?’

The painter pauses. ‘It depends what passion you are talking about.’

‘This speculation on tulip bulbs …. Great fortunes have been made and lost. These new hybrids that they have been growing – they fetch the most astonishing prices.  Thousands of florins, if you know when to buy and sell..’ Cornelius’s voice rises with excitement; he too has greatly profited from this tulipomania.

‘Why, the Semper Augustus bulb – they are the most beautiful and the most valuable – one bulb sold last week for six fine horses, three oxheads of wine, a dozen sheep, two dozen silver goblets and a seascape by Esaias van de Velde!’

Taken from Deborah Moggach’s imaginative novel ‘Tulip Fever’, this extract sums up the emotions and financial risks that 17^th century Dutch merchants were subject to when the desire for this simple flower overtook the world.  On a visit to the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland you get an idea of why the beauty and variety of tulips enraptured so many.

Mondrian-like blocks of colour flashed by the window as I travelled to Keukenhof by coach from Amsterdam.  We were passing the famous Dutch bulb fields.  On arrival, the luscious scent of hyacinths hits you as you queue to get in – it’s a place of sensory pleasure even on a chilly spring day.  Keukenhof means ‘Kitchen Garden’; in the 15^th century, herbs were grown here for aristocratic Countess Jacoba van Beieren’s Castle .

Every autumn seven million spring flower bulbs are planted – not just tulips but crocuses, daffodils, narcissi, hyacinths and lilies. Covering more than 30 hectares with 15 kilometers of footpaths you need some good walking shoes and plenty of stamina to take in all the attractions.  In the Historical Garden you get a feel for the history of the place with its grey stone walls showcasing older varieties of plants as well as herbs and flowering trees.  Stroll down Beech Lane, designed around 1850; on either side the flower beds flow in scented grace,  tempting the visitor to pause for a moment to take in their natural beauty.  Modern day tulip fever takes over as people jostle to get the perfect photo.  It’s a photographer’s dream – impossible not to be seduced by the colour, artistry and sheer exhuberance of this spring tapestry.

Each year Keukenhof chooses a different country as the central theme for the park.  When I went (2012) it was ’Poland – Heart of Europe’  This was particularly significant as it’s an increasing market for Dutch flower bulbs and many Polish tourists now visit Holland.  The show highlighted key figures such as the astronomer Copernicus, scientists Marie Curie and Fahrenheit, Pope John Paul II and the composer Frédéric Chopin. One of the most popular displays was the floral mosaic of this brilliant pianist.

As well as the meticulously laid-out gardens there are 5 large pavilions hosting flower shows of azaleas, lilies, orchids, anthuriums, bromelliads and many other exotic plants.  The Willlem-Alexander Pavilion is the largest, housing magnificent daffodil and tulip displays and before the Gardens close, a grand finale –  the world’s largest Lily Show.

There are whackily creative displays of the florist’s craft in the Oranje Nassau Pavilion which change every two weeks. They also reflect the annual theme, so musical notes hung from the ceiling to celebrate Mozart and Copernicus was remembered with starry baubles.  Used to the more conservative atmsosphere of British Flower Shows, I loved the exhibition in the Beatrix Pavilion where haughty models bedecked with all manner of vibrant flowery garments posed with insouciant charm.

In a corner of the grounds is a huge wooden Windmill, given to the park in 1957.  From the top you can take photos of the surrounding bulb fields and you get a great view of Mill Square and the gardens.  When I was there, a lively brass band was delighting the audience with their musical antics.  It was so different from our somewhat reverential brass bands seen in public parks around the country, usually watched by old folk falling to sleep in fading deck-chairs.  In their patriotic bright orange jackets and mischievous smiles, these musicians encouraged the audience to dance and young tourists dared each other to have their photos taken with this crazy gang of Dutch fun.

Dotted around are unusual and thought-provoking sculptures.  Artists are given the opportunity to exhibit their work to an international audience and their locations are carefully thought out.  The Zocher Garden in the centre of the park has a tranquil lake with elegant swans, a trefoil fountain and huge stepping stones.  Much to everyone’s delight there were a group of ‘swimmers’ bobbing up beside the huge stepping stones – a very quirky sight!

There are plenty of places to eat and refresh yourself in the Keukenhof gardens – search out the delicious Dutch waffles with syrup.  Should you wish to indulge in your own tulip fever, souvenir shops are available, selling everything from tulip bedecked ties, bulbs of every imaginable hue and scent, table napkins and the wooden flowers if you’ve not got green fingers.

I travelled to Holland on the Stena Line ferry from Harwich and stayed in Amsterdam at the uber-cool Citizen M hotel courtesy of Laterooms.  I can recommend the Pocket Rough Guide to Amsterdam by Martin Dunford.  Thanks to iamsterdam for organising the coach trip with Viator. The Keukenhof Gardens are open from mid March until May – check their website here for further details.

Tulips: as Cornelius says, ‘Do they not remind us of the transitory nature of beauty?’ Visit Keukenhof in the spring before they fade away …

For those of a certain age, St Moritz is synonymous with the über-cool jet-setters of the Swinging Sixties. Erstwhile playboy Gunter Sachs epitomised this hedonistic era when he married French pin-up movie star Brigitte Bardot. Gunter Sachs Lodge and The Dracula Club, overlooking the Olympic Bob Run course, are where the beautiful people still go to see and be seen.

The ‘Olympic Bob Run’ is the oldest in the world, initially created for winter guests from Great Britain who invented the sport of bobsleigh running. In 1897, the St. Moritz Bobsleigh Club was established.  The track served as host to the bobsleigh events for both the 1928 and the 1948 Winter Olympics.   Today it is one of the world’s best known bobsled runs, popular with both amateur and professional sports enthusiasts.

Arriving on a sunny day in late winter the place is a buzzing hive of testosterone, high-fashion and reflective sunglasses, mirroring the beautiful people at play.  Men in tight-fitting jackets jam protective helmets on their heads whilst photographers jostle for the best position to get the iconic shot.  There’s an air of expensive danger, jovial bonhomie and general excitement.  On the sunlit terraces a sophisticated murmur of polite chat chimes with champagne glasses chinking and beer glasses clinking. Pristine snow glistens in reflected sunshine and it looks like a glossy page from Vogue magazine … So it is with red-faced embarrassment that I recall my ignominious photo-call in these hallowed environs.

I was on a Railbookers train holiday to Switzerland; the day before we had arrived at St Moritz in style on the gloriously luxurious Glacier Express and we had been taken to the prestigious Olympic Club to have a look round. In front of the run was a bobsleigh and we were invited to have our photo taken. I got into the front position, sat back for my shot – and promptly disappeared down into the very nose of the bobsleigh.  And I couldn’t get out … All that was visible were my hands scrabbling to get a purchase on the slippery edge of the frame.

I got so weak laughing I was incapable of leveraging myself up. It was only when everyone had got their photos and finally stopped their hysterics that, with the help of my ‘friends’ and a couple of strapping sportsmen, I was finally hauled out, dusted off and able to pose properly for my photo.

It was fascinating watching the participants setting off on their exhilarating bobsleigh run.  Every few minutes two or three people crammed themselves into a metallic cylinder and were shoved off down the world’s only natural ice run, hurtling along 1722 metres of straights and round 14 named corners at speeds of up to 135 kph, and all over in about 75 seconds.

We left this exciting Swiss playground to walk into St Moritz Town Centre and there, just round the corner, was that other famous sporting venue of the Engadin region, the Cresta Run.  Started in the winter season 1884/85, it’s a men-only ‘skeleton bob’ addictive adrenalin rush spiked with danger and adventure just inches off the frozen track.  (Female Journalist Lisa Grainger did manage to do the run – you can read her death-defying account of it here.)

I stayed in 5-star pampered luxury at the Kempinksi Grand Hotel des Bains, one of St Moritz’ oldest hotels and the site of the St Mauritius Spring, after which the town is named. For over 2000 years people have been drinking from this spring.  In 1553 Paracelsus wrote about its medicinal benefits, recommending its health-giving waters, one of the most healing natural springs in Europe. Now situated in the Grand Hotel des Bains Spa, it is still open to the public.

I’d recommend a glass of its iron-rich water, perfect for revitalising after embarrassing photo-shoots!

The stream of clowns seemed endless, each group dressed in matching zingy, sherbet-bright costumes, gradually filling up the main promenade between the exuberantly decorated floats, marching bands and rich medley of characters that made up the extravaganza that is the Tenerife Carnival.

CARNIVAL – a festival marked by merrymaking and processions

Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday: a carnival held in some countries on Shrove Tuesday (the last day before Lent) but especially in New Orleans and Rio de Janiero

Carnevale: from Old Italian carnelevare, Shrovetide : carne, meat + levare, to remove

I was upstairs on a big red, open-top bus on Santa Cruz promenade the waiting for the main procession of the carnival to get under way … We’d been there for almost two hours, so even by Spanish mañana standards it was a long time!  This did, however, give us a unique opportunity to see some of the amazingly intricate costumes and floats that make this one of the biggest carnivals in the world.  This year’s theme was ‘Bollywood’ and there were some beautiful Indian-influenced outfits, but to be honest, the overall vision was simply colour, glitz and vibrancy. The atmosphere was electric as adults, children and a couple of geese made their preparations for the biggest day of the year.

As a picture paints a thousand words, I’ll save you some reading time and share some of the scenes that I saw during this time.  If you can imagine an accompaniment of a very loud and excitable troupe of drummers plus various bands providing entertainment for the waiting crowds, you’ll get an idea of the sounds that accompanied this marvellous melee.

There was a great deal of adjusting of costumes, trying on of hats, practising marching, putting finishing touches to exotic makeup, twiddling with accoutrements and a huge amount of noisy laughter. 

Children of all ages were kitted out in very professional-looking costumes and were high as kites with excitement. Adults tried to keep them in place but quite a few went walk-about whilst others were kept happy with bags of crips and fizzy drinks.

As well as the groups who were marching on foot there were, of course, a great many floats.  I’d never been to a ‘real’ carnival and to be so close to these wonderful creations didn’t spoil the magic one bit.  I walked up to the head of the procession before it set off and was fortunate to get in front of the Tenerife Carnival Queen as she was getting ready for the start and posing for photographers. Even without her headress she was simply lovely and clearly enjoying all the fuss.

With the rather lengthy delay, some of the participants got rather tired so there were a few who took time out to have a sit down and rest before the procession set off.

And for one or two people, the anticipation all got too much so they grabbed the chance for a quick kip …

Eventually we heard that the parade had set off and our guide, Ancor, decided that we should abandon the bus and start walking alongside to get a real feel of what it was like to take part in the Tenerife Carnival.  So that’s what we did – and I’ll tell you about that and the crazy party nights before and after, another time.

I travelled to the lovely Canary isle of Tenerife, off the coast of Africa, courtesy of Tenerife Tourism and stayed in 5 Star luxury at the Mencey Hotel in the heart of Santa Cruz.

Oh yes, those geese. Here they are, in quite possibly the most understated outfits of the whole parade …

There are a few sights in the world that can take your breath away and leave you speechless … Uluru in the Red Centre of the Australian outback, is one of those places. Whether your first glimpse, like mine, is from high above as the plane comes in to land, or maybe at sunrise on the distant horizon or perhaps from the back of a docile camel, you will very likely feel a strange sense of awe and incredulity at this enormous domed rock thrusting up out of one of this planet’s most inhospitable environments.

On the flight from Darwin via Alice Springs I’d been fretting about whether this iconic (yes, one of the few places that truly do justify the use of that word) place would disappoint.  For as long as I could remember, Ayers Rock, as many of us know it, had figured in my mind’s eye any time anyone mentioned ‘Australia’. It evoked wonder and intrigue but so had the Pyramids -and they were a big disappointment.  (If you’ve not been, be prepared for a tourist bun fight with a lot of hassle and the suburbs of Cairo nudging up cheek by jowl with the Sphinx …)  However, I was not to be disappointed; my first glimpse of it from the plane window, reassured me of its superb isolation.  Further acquaintance enabled me to get some idea why it is such a sacred site for the Aboriginal peoples who live nearby and why it has inspired countless visitors with its impressive grandeur.

At 5am the next morning I was having a welcome bacon buttie and coffee on a sandy hillock in the dark waiting for the sun to rise and get my first proper look at Uluru.  About 15 of us plus our guide on The Desert Awakenings Tour  huddled around our hot mugs and there was was a definite frisson of anticipation in spite of the chilly morning air. The only sounds were the murmur of sleepy conversation, the wind swishing through the grass and the quiet munching of early breakfast.  The whole world seemed suspended in time waiting, waiting, waiting …

Slowly a thin streak of reddy-orange appeared, the carpet of stars started to fade and the dark was gradually ushered away by the sun struggling  to break through the distant layer of haze along the base of the skyline.  We were transfixed by this simple, everyday event, cameras at the ready, when someone said “Look – it’s over there,” and we all turned round.  There, far away on the horizon, across scrubby flat desert, was the unmistakable outline of the sight we had all come to see.  It gradually came into focus like one of those old photos in a photographer’s dark room, beautifully delineated yet magically elusive.

The sky morphed through a pastel palette of colour.  All thoughts seemed to disappear as I sat and watched it become more clearly defined and – simply breathtaking.  It’s really impossible to put into words what I felt during the time it took for the sun to rise fully and the Rock to be cleary visible in its reddish glory … but whatever it was, I suspect many others felt the same as hardly anyone said a word for a very long while.

Our guide then regaled us with fascinating stories relating to the Aboriginal Song Lines and the ancestors’ journey.  “As they travelled they formed the world as we know it, creating trees, rocks, caves, boulders, cracks, waterholes.  These features are the physical evidence that these events really did take place; they are the Tjukuritja.” From ‘Palya! Welcome to Anangu Land’.

There was a final burst of photography, we tramped back down the little hill, through the red sand and prickly grass back to our 4WD transport.  The atmosphere had changed so much in just an hour. A few birds were clearing their throats and practising their dawn warble.  A quirky-looking pigeony-type bird wandered in behind us to peck up our leftovers.

Slightly disconcerting rustlings indicated the presence of … not sure what and wasn’t going off the path to find out.  The ttransition from the cool night air to the dry heat of that extremely hot sun was taking place as we walked. It was now about 7.30am and we were heading off towards Uluru to have a walk around and learn why this ancient monolith is venerated by the Aboriginal peoples of this region.

Over the next couple of days I was lucky enough to get really close to the rock, see it by sunrise from Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), at sunset at the exclusive Tali Wiru dining experience and very memorably in a light rain shower from the back of a feisty camel called Spinifex – but nothing compared to that first morning when, for a fleeting moment, all seemed right with the world and our place in it but an insignificant dot on the landscape in comparison to the vista before us …

I stayed, courtesy of Tourism Northern Territory, at the Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, which is a reallya mini village.  It’s the only resort in the area, but fortunately there are a number of options to suit all budgets, from camping and hostel to self-catering and the 5 Star luxury of the Sails in the Desert Hotel where I was lucky enough to stay.  Just be warned – Bill Bryson and companion turned up without booking and there was no room at the resort – having driven all day from Alice Springs, they had to turn round and drive the 5 hour journey back and missed the Rock!

Neither words nor photographs can do justice to this place but I would encourage you, at least once in your life, to experience the natural wonder that is sunrise at Uluru …