Quirky Traveller's Tales

Baldry’s Tea Room, Grasmere: Lemon Meringue Pie – the very words bring back memories of childhood, when my Mum used to make the most mouth-watering dessert with her own lemon curd and squidgy meringue.  I never thought I’d say this but … shhhhh – the LMP at Baldry’s Tea Rooms is possibly even better than my Mum’s.  For a quick lunch, their homemade soup is excellent, but you must leave room for a big slice of tart, lemony heaven on a plate.  Baldry’s has a vague air of Fin de Siècle France about it, with fancy gilded mirrors and pretty china and the idiosyncratic window display always catches the eye of passing tourists.  Whilst you’re in Grasmere, you can see Wordsworth’s grave in ancient St Oswald’s churchyard and wander down to the lake to walk off all that delicious food.

Bridge Cottage Tea Shop, Grange-in Borrowdale: turn off the main road from Keswick to Honister, over the double-arched packhorse bridge, round the corner and there you have a perfect little grey slate cottage.  Go through low doorway and find a cosy little table in this small, yet perfectly formed tea shop.  There are always plenty of snacks, light meals (my favourite is the simply scrumptious cheese and ham toastie) and drinks to choose from.  In the height of summer it’s very busy so be prepared to wait – definitely worth it.  Go for a wander beside the clear waters of the River Derwent – there are plenty of pebbles to skim across the water. On your way back make sure you stop off for a walk to Friar’s Crag for one of the best views in the Lake District.

Bridge Cottage Teashop Photo by english-lakes.com

Rattle Gill Café: up a steep lane and round a little bend, alongside Stock Gill water cascade is a vegetarian gem.  I sheltered from a rain storm one day and in the snug vegetarian café wolfed down a delicious bowl of vegetable soup (go for the HUNGRY Monkey bowl if you have a big appetite!) with fresh, wholemeal bread and a very fruitful smoothie.  The friendly owners will make dishes to order and they have a very tempting children’s menu.  Make sure you walk up Stock Gill and wander around Ambleside which, as a popular walking centre, has a large selection of shops stocking everything for the hardy hiker and camping crank.

Poppy Red:  Hawkshead is the quaint Cumbrian village famous for Wordsworth’s school, Beatrix Potter’s gallery, its eponymous outdoor clothing shop and tasty relish.  There are some excellent little shop and great pubs and the quirky tearoom, Poppi Red – so much more than just a place to get a good cup of tea, coffee or glass of wine.  Curious tea pots, quirky plates and a cup cake cornucopia on one side and a jam-packed gift shop on the other. If the weather is fine, grab a table outside, order a drink and watch the world go by …

Low Sizergh Barn Tea Room: one of my absolute favourite places for a cuppa and a cake (en route to the Lake District on the A590 near Kendal), the tea room also has a unique view … over the milking shed.  On any day of the week, mid-afternoon you will find little children, noses pressed up against the glass, gazing down on the black and white cows as they placidly line up to get attached to the milking machines.

In this tastefully converted rustic barn there’s always a great selection of home-made meals and delicious bakes to tempt the hungry visitor.  Once refreshed you may then be tempted to purchase some locally grown strawberries, a pretty jumper or a wicker basket from the vast selection of crafts, food and gifts in their oh-so-very-enticing Farm Shop.

Take a winter break in Prague… It’s a perfect time to visit – not too many tourists, wintry weather which fits with the scenery, lots of cultural things to go to ie opera, ballet, concerts and theatre – and you can get a table at any bar or restaurant with no hassle. I was there during Obama’s inauguration and spent a memorable evening with locals & foreigners at the American-run Globe Bookstore watching the historic event on a huge screen and celebrating with excellent local ‘champagne’.

Here are five things to do in that wonderful city …

1. Indulge in the glories of Art Nouveau. Visit the Mucha Museum and learn about Alphonse Mucha, one of most famous exponents of the form. You can find wonderful original examples of his work, including his Four Seasons posters and those he did for his Muse, the English actress Sarah Bernhardt. There’s a beautiful stained glass window by him in St Vitus Cathedral (See pic above) and many fine examples of Art Nouveau architecture and design all over the city. My favourite building was the Obecní dům (Municipal Building), a fabulously ornate concoction to delight the senses.

2. Walk around medieval Staroměstské Náměstí (Old Town Square) and look at the fantastic collection of buildings from over 400 years. One of Prague’s most atmospheric Churches, Our Lady Of Tyn is beautifully silhouetted against the sky. Find a table at one of the restaurants (expensive but what a view!), watch the world go by and wait for the most beautiful Astronomical Clock in Europe strike the hour.

3. Slow down and get into the Cafe society. This city must surely rival Paris for the variety and quality of its Coffee houses. One of my favourites was the Grand Cafe Orient with its unique Cubist decor. Its other name is the House of Black Madonna, in honour of the statue on the corner. Behind Our Lady of Tyn is another gem – the Cafe Ebel Coffee House; very cosy and quirky – with excellent carrot cake. If you fancy trying the local tipple that drove Toulouse Lautrec and others mad – Absinthe – then go to the Art Deco gem Cafe Slavia and have their Seksinst Cocktail. It’s a potent mix of champagne and Absinthe – you have been warned …

4. For a slightly different perspective visit the The Vysehrad Cemetery Vysehrad, the burial place for many famous and important Czech people. You’ll find the composer Dvorak just round the corner from Smetana and in the large Slavin Memorial many illustrious Czechs including the Art Nouveau artist, Alphonse Mucha (see above). The cemetary is in the grounds of the Vysehrad ‘Castle on the Heights’ and there are great views over the city from its ramparts. To get there, you can walk there along the river, get the Metro or try the excellent tram system.

5. Watch the Changing of the Guard at Midday Prague Castle In the winter the Guards wear great-coats and furry hats (unlike their powder blue & decidedly fey summer uniform!) and at Midday when they do the Banner exchange, they march about to music that sounds vaguely reminiscent of the Thunderbird Theme tune. You can then go round Prague Castle, a glorious hotch-potch of buildings from different periods and also see the magnificently Gothic St Vitus Cathedral.

There’s so much more … Charles Bridge, the Kafka Musuem, the quirky wooden puppets, the Black Theatre shows, the micro-breweries, Petrin Hill – a weekend is not nearly enough time! I found the best things of all was to simply relax into the rhythm of the city, take time to absorb the multitude of glories that this city presents and let it work its magic …

I also visited Prague in the Autumn when it is at its most mistily beautiful – discover some more city delights here.