Quirky Traveller's Tales

In the latest of the World Travel Blogger series, renowned traveller Chris Christensen describes a place he knows well, in San Jose, California.

Winchester Mystery House – photo by Harsh Light

Sarah Winchester was the widow of the inventor of the Winchester rifle. She was a superstitious woman who is haunted by the fact that her husband’s invention, while it made her rich, killed a great many people. Combine those riches that superstition the advice of a medium, who apparently had a brother-in-law who was a contractor, and Sarah Winchester was led to believe that she would be protected if there was a constant sound of hammers building on her house. Whether she believed she was protected from vengeful spirits, wouldn’t die, or just would never have to hold a housewarming party is a subject of speculation. She started work on an unfinished farm house 3 miles from San Jose (at the time) in 1884 and continued contraction for 38 years. The mansion she left behind has come to be known as the Winchester Mystery House.

Winchester Mystery House – Photo by Harsh Light

The Winchester Mystery House, in San Jose, California, is conveniently located next to the I280 freeway at the Winchester exit. I grew up just over an hour south of San Jose and just outside my hometown Salinas there has been  a billboard for the Winchester mystery House for many years. It was, as I recall, one of only three things worth going to San Jose for when I was a kid. Frontier village, my favorite of those, has been gone for many years. The Eastridge shopping mall is not as unique as it used to be and isn’t the only ice rink for a 100 miles in any direction as it was when I was a kid. The Winchester Mystery House, on the other hand, still continues to get visitors, some of them, quite probably, like the school child that I was when I first visited.

The house itself is beautiful; it’s just the floor plan that is a bit, shall we say, eccentric. It lacks a cohesive plan so there are famously stairways that leads up into walls and doors that go nowhere. I recall one beautiful stained glass window purchased by Sarah Winchester that has precious and semi-precious stones inlaid in it. The window was meant to reflect to reflect the light into a dazzling array of colors. Winchester made two critical errors with the placement of that window. First, she put the window on the north side of the house where it would not receive direct sunlight. Second, after placing the window she went on to build a series of rooms on the other side of the window so it now sits on an interior wall.

Winchester Mystery House windows – photo by Harsh Light

 Winchester was a suspicious woman as well as superstitious. She was also nearly crippled with arthritis. You can climb the staircases of the house, with their half rise steps in deference to Winchester’s arthritis, up to the second floor rooms where she had large skylights installed in the floor so she could keep an eye on her servants.

The best part of the tour are the numerous stories told by the guides. They will make sure to point out the details like the number 13 that keeps reoccurring, sink drains with 13 holes, etc. But the tour guides don’t have the answers to every question. The two stupidest questions they get, according to our guide, are:

• Why did they build it so close to the freeway?

• How many rooms are there that they haven’t discovered yet?

Winchester Mystery House – photo by Harsh Light

Chris Christensen has the popular travel site Amateur Traveler and was Gold Medal winner in Broadcast awarded by the North American Travel Journalism Association for This Week in Travel. You can follow him on Twitter  chris2x

In a recent interview I was asked,  “What’s your travel philosophy?”  I replied:

“I believe in slow travel, trying to find a different angle to the familiar, going off the beaten track and simply wandering about.  You find out so much about a place by sitting at a little back-street café chatting to locals, going round the side of a well-known building and looking up or setting off in the opposite direction to the one the tour book recommends.  I love finding out about the history, food and culture of the places I visit – always intriguing and often quirky.”

But how had I developed this philosophy, if that is what it is? I started looking back over my fascination with travel to see what the threads were that pulled it all together.  I have been obsessed with reading and one book in particular inspired me when I was very young.  That book was the ‘Larousse Encyclopedia of Mythology’ with an introduction by Robert Graves.  Originally published in 1959 it’s described as:

“A comprehensive guide to world mythology which explores in detail the sources of human civilisation. Fascinating facts and legends from across the globe, covering the ancient civilisations of Egypt, Greece, Italy, China, Japan and India to name but a few.”

We had a copy of the book at home and I used to spend hours armchair travelling to exotic countries, daydreaming via the black and white photos of landscapes, buildings, statues, pottery, jewellery, paintings, coins and places around the world I had never heard of.  I have always been intrigued by mythology and it was only as an adult that I’ve come to realise just how much it can teach us about people, beliefs, traditions and culture.

We moved around a lot when I was younger, leaving my home town of Southport, a genteel seaside resort in those days (great beach, not much sea) to move to greyer and less appealing Reading with its easy access to London.  After a couple of years we went further south to another quiet seaside town, Bexhill, now famous for the Art Deco ‘De La Ware Pavilion’, around which my brothers and I used to play chase but which I also found strangely scary.  Three years later we were uprooted by our itinerant sales rep father and dumped in the heart of urban Northampton, shoe making capital of the UK at that time.  And there Dad left us, having moved us from a place we loved to one we really didn’t feel at home in, to join his mistress in newly divorced bliss in Nottingham.

However, as a dutiful father he took us out once a month to the stately homes of England and here I probably further developed my love of history as I absorbed centuries of British culture via the Grand Tour plunderings of countless generations of feckless young men wandering around the globe in the 18^th and 19^th century.

From there I went off to college in Dudley, got a mediocre degree from Birmingham University and started a teaching career I never wanted.  I taught English to some lovely kids but was bored and only half alive.  Waking up one morning next to my boyfriend, a lovely guy who I was supposed to marry, I suddenly thought, “There must be more to life than this.” A year later I was living in Greece, making friendships that would last a lifetime and having some very quirky adventures …

(Read how another travel book influenced that decision to move to Greece here.

When I started this blog I simply wanted to share stories of my travels, hence the title ‘Quirky Traveller’s Tales’.  A lot has happened since and I am fortunate to be able to wander around the UK and abroad, having wonderful experiences and writing about them, pinching myself every so often as I remind myself how lucky I am.  (And no, it doesn’t pay the bills – not yet anyway!)

SO I’ve decided to share the object of my quirky travels from the PAST in my very own version of the Larousse Encyclopedia – with a nod to the wonderful BBC series A History of the World in 100 Objects‘.  It’ll be a rich mix of memories, anecdotes, thoughts and views inspired by some of the objects, photos, books, poems, places and people from around our magical planet.

You can listen to an AudioBoo Podcast of this article here

*** December 2012 update: TQT Object #1 The Compass

It’s not every day that you can see the Eiffel Tower, pyramids of Giza and Great Wall of China before lunch. That is, unless you know where to go …

In the bustling metropolis of Shenzhen, China is found a kitschy, (not so) little attraction known as ‘Window of the World’. This local tourist hotspot has recreated all of the great monuments of the world, except those of China, which are housed down the road at its very own theme park aptly named ‘Splendid China‘.  Travelling the world in one day may sound daunting but it does have its benefits. Think of all the money you just saved by not having to actually go anywhere!  At least that’s what I assume the developers were thinking of when they first built this theme park featuring 130 of the world’s greatest sights in Shenzhen’s affluent OCT neighbourhood.

Before you even enter the park you can lean up against Pei’s glass pyramid, usually to be seen outside the Louvre in Paris. Catch a glimpse of the 354-foot reproduction of the Eiffel Tower in the distance while you buy your tickets. Only the palm trees and oppressive heat will remind you that you didn’t just travel to France. As you enter through the gates you will be greeted by a number of ancient Roman columns; a few steps later and you will be  trying not to squash the temples of Thailand and castles of Japan.

A tiny emperor and his court sit helplessly in the imperial palace as you, the giant, saunter by. It’s true that you should not actually step on the scaled down model, but it sure is fun to think about re-enacting a scene from Godzilla.

The streets of Venice beckon you to duck through the narrow archways of the Doge’s Palace and explore Piazza San Marco. Try not to trip over the bridge spanning the Grand Canal. Grab a souvenir photo in traditional Thai costumes before ending your journey with the Roman Coliseum, unless of course you want to make a full day of it.

There are still the great continent of Africa and the Americas to explore. Who doesn’t want to see the Ivory Gate of Kenya at the same time as Disneyland, Mount Rushmore and the statues of Easter Island in Chile?  Go knock on the door of the Taj Mahal and hike through the jungles of India during your visit. Don’t forget to stop by Australia’s Uluru. It’s a lot harder to climb up than you might think.  And then there are those iconic pyramids to check out before you go.

You may not get to see all of the wonders the world has to offer in your lifetime, but at least now you know you can visit quite a few of them in a day thanks to the ‘Window of the World’.

Keryn Means is the founder of Walkingon Travels, a site that gives hope to today’s modern parent who doesn’t want to stop their lives; they simply bring their kids along for the ride. You can find Keryn dragging her 2 boys around Seattle most days and across the globe several times a year. Follow along on their adventures at @walkingontravel Twitter and on Facebook.

In the second of our ‘World Travel Blogger’ series of articles, American Amanda Slavinsky, who writes the travel blog Farsickness, describes some of the delicious food in her adopted home, Korea.

My favorite way of jumping into another culture and discovering the quirky side of a new country, is by sampling the food. And by sampling I mean trying as many different things as possible. Before I moved to South Korea in 2011, I was completely clueless about Korean cuisine, which is often overshadowed by the food of its more popular east Asian neighbors, Japan and China. The past 18 months have taken me on an exciting food journey that has helped me learn not only about new flavors and ingredients, but about the interesting history and culture of Korea.  I will introduce some of the more popular Korean dishes and hope that if you someday venture to the Land of the Morning Calm, you’ll be slightly more ready than I was …

Samgyeopsal – photo by Amanda Slavinsky

Korea could be known as the land of the barbecue. Not the kind on your back deck, but one in the middle of your restaurant table. Meat restaurants are some of the most common in Korea. Samgyeopsal, which literally means three layered flesh, is a popular choice. These slices of pork belly look similar to bacon, though uncured, and are grilled until crispy. Another option is galbi, beef (or pork) ribs that have been marinated in a primarily soy, ginger, and garlic based sauce. The tender, juicy pieces melt in your mouth. Soju, a clear liquor made from rice, is considered the perfect accompaniment to a barbecue meal.

Galbi – photo by Amanda Slavinsky

One of Korea’s most famous non-meat based dishes is bibimbap. Meaning mixed rice, the name is a good description of the dish itself. Vegetables are piled on top of white rice and then mixed together with some gochujang (a spicy red pepper paste common in Korean food) and, often, a fried egg. Another version, called dolsot bibimbap, is served in a hot stone pot with a raw egg. The hot pot cooks then the egg and crisps the rice while you eat.

Bibimbap – photo by Amanda Slavinsky

A more casual Korean dish is ddeokbokki. Savory rice cakes, fish cakes, and green onions are tossed in a spicy gochujang (red pepper) sauce to make this dish that is most commonly served from street carts around the city.

Of course, no Korean meal is complete without banchan, or side dishes. At any Korean meal, the table will be covered with many small bowls. Kimchi is the most common side dish, and probably the most famous Korean food around the world. The most well known type of kimchi is the spicy fermented cabbage type, but there are many other types of kimchi including cucumber, radish, and white cabbage, which is not spicy.

Banchan – photo by Amanda Slavinsky

While this is no means a comprehensive list of Korean food, there are far too many to list here, it is a glimpse into the culinary traditions of this country. Food has a way of connecting, of opening doors into places where you don’t speak the language or understand the customs. Food has done that for me in Korea.

About the author: Amanda is an American currently living in Seoul, teaching writing to elementary ESL students, and planning her long term, post-teaching contract trip. She blogs about travel, food, elephants, a love of Italy, and life in Korea over at her blog, Farsickness. You can also find her on Twitter @farsickness and Facebook

Here’s another quirkilicious post from Alvina Labsvirs, who’s storming away in the world of travel blogging.  Last year she attended one of our TQT Travel Writing Workshops.

Wander around the capital city of Riga and you would be forgiven for thinking you were in Prague or Brussels.  The old buildings have been dusted down of their communist grim and restored in panache of pastel.  Small streets hide hidden cafes and gardens, placed carefully to make the most of the sunlight filtering down to the cobbles.  Look upwards and you will find the idiosyncratic designs of the merchant classes of 200 years ago.  Each trying to outdo the other.  Black cats on spires were the result of a dispute with the city officials   Round another corner and a donkey, a dog, a cat and a rooster balance precariously on top of each other.  A memorial to music, and a link to the city of Bremen in Germany.  What music these four creatures could make I dread to think.

The churches of Riga survived by becoming concert halls and have now been reclaimed by respective congregations.   A tradition of fine needle work can be seen here with gold thread rather replacing the natural dyes of the more common textiles.  Climb St Peter’s tower and you will see across the whole of Riga.  The River Daugava dominates the city as it did once the economy.  The link to the Baltic Sea was one of the driving forces of the Soviet invasion but the coast now has a more leisurely role to play.

Look west and you will see Jurmala.  Literal translation.  The Sea Side.  Once only the rich, then the Party elite had their Dachas in Jurmala.  Now it plays host to an international cast.  Jurmala has 26 miles of uninterrupted white sand, perfect for volley ball, a national obsession.

 From Riga to Jurmala take the train or a boat trip.  If you have a couple of days to spare stay in one of the traditional Dachas converted to guest houses or one of the more modern spa hotels.  The Latvians are as passionate about their ‘Spa Treatments’ as they are about flowers.  You can be bathed in mud, be salted like a fish and steamed in paper.  All, I was told, for your health.  English is spoken everywhere as the Scandinavian languages are so disparate and it is still a popular place for Russians to holiday.  So much so, that the price of property in Jurmala matches those on the Cote d’azure.  Wander off Jomas street and see traditional houses restored and slowly falling into disrepair, nestle side by side in leafy streets.

 Once out of Riga forest dominates and there are strict controls on its preservation.  With a population of only two million there is still much unspoilt wilderness to see and enjoy.  Red squirrels can be seen in the trees only a mile from the centre of Jurmala.

 There are still reminders of the recent division of East from West.  Square, Soviet blocks are difficult to disguise and many have just been left to decay when the Soviets moved out.  One apt ‘block’, though this time Latvian built, is the Museum of Occupation in Riga.  Visit to understand what happened in the cold war years. 

 Eating is now as international as in any city, though you can still find traditional Latvian food.  Notably in Lido, a small chain of family restaurants.  Latvia is not in the Euro and prices, in Lats are similar or slightly cheaper than the UK.  I stayed in the Jurmala Spa Hotel and flew from Manchester with Finnair via Helsinki.  Both highly recommended, but there direct flights available from other airlines.

Alvina Labsvirs says, “With my photographs and blog site Reasons to go North developed from my love of The Lakes, walking and travel,  I hope to  inspire visitor and residents to enjoy the Lakes, to get out and appreciate all that it has to offer.”

When you think of London you think Big Ben, the Queen, Hyde Park, maybe the Imperial War Museum– not an underground movement of urban art slowly crawling its way across the city like a politically colourful Japanese Knotweed. It’s time to see London differently, so set up base in a hotel in central London and head out into the ever-changing world of urban art. 

London Street Art (Stock Images)

The street art scene is slowly but very surely taking over the pavements, walls and tube stations of the city – in almost every corner of every road and building you’ll be rewarded by Space Invaders and miniature heroes, political statements and Banksy wannabes (and Banksy himself, of course).  Street art in London has only recently been recognised as art, probably thanks to Banksy and his blossoming worldwide fame, and is steadily progressing from being an impermanent and uncontrollable pest to a force to be reckoned with. However, this art of recklessness and anti-establishment is being lost behind panes of Perspex and a rise in legal walls around the city – it’s good to see that creativity is being appreciated, but can it really be controlled? 

To get a glimpse of the originality that lurks in London Town, head to a dark alley called Blackall Street just off Old Street. You’ll find yourself under the glaring eyes of neon monsters, blushing whilst passing by an embracing couple and giggling at Stik men childishly scrawled on shutters. The remains of an Invader casually surveys the scene like a surreal CCTV camera and BOREDOM IS COUNTER REVOLUTIONARY loudly remarks the statement this street once subtly claimed.

Shoreditch is the place to go to find a mixture of London most appreciated al fresco art – from the weird and the wonderful, political and sickly sweet to outright rude, Shoreditch is a melting pot of imagination and vulgarity. Look out for samurais, Mickey Mouse and a giant hedgehog to get you going – and remember to keep an eye on the ground; you never know who you’ll see lurking on street corners.  For the Banksy fans out there, London’s Shoreditch is the ideal starting point – you’ll find the evolved Pulp Fiction, the Rat Race and the Chopper all at home here, as well as designated graffiti areas around most corners and prying policemen fading and failing to stop the art revolution.

London Street Art (Stock Image)

However, street art doesn’t have to be limited to 2D paintings on out-of-reach walls – Covent Garden is home to the Big Smoke’s best street artists. Here you can find a bunch of loud performers offering many laughs and gasps, all competing for your attention (and change) whilst you shop, eat and drink. To enjoy some in-the-flesh art in London, find a table outside one of Covent Garden’s hotels, sip on a cocktail, and be prepared to part with any loose change in your pocket.

Juggler 'The Great Dave' Covent Garden by Aqwis

‘This post is brought to you by ‘Grange Hotels’.