Quirky Traveller's Tales

Picture the scene…middle-aged couple, two monsters children, busy working lives, and never any time to be together. Not even date nights.  Such is my life.  And then … a surprise birthday gift. Vouchers for GilpinLodge, a luxury country house hotel in the heart of the Lake District.  My mind was made up.  No flitting this on just dinner, oh no, I wanted the full Monty and all parents’ dream, a childfree night away!

Needless to say, it took flipping ages to find anyone stupid willing to have our darlings for just one night’s sleepover. So six months later, we’re booked, sleeping bags and pyjamas delivered (not for us) and we’re outta here!  To make things even better, we received a call earlier from Gilpin to say we’d be getting an upgrade to a junior suite. Oh the excitement. So what if the journey was only 30 minutes from home? We still felt like tourists.

There was no gleaming glass-fronted behemoth when we arrived. Just a secluded house set back behind the mature garden. This was far from a typical overnight experience. It felt like someone’s home.  A grand one, mind.  We were welcomed and checked in though it didn’t really feel like checking in. The suite was a delight. A massive bed that was just asking to flopped upon – so we did. A large living area with French windows looking out, not just at countryside, but at … llamas.  Not what you’d expect in the Lake District. But that’s Gilpin all over. Uniqueness and details. We made tea and were happy to find delicious homemade biscuits to go with it. Feet up and just relax.

A thought came to us. Best work up an appetite for that evening’s gastronomy. So off we zoomed down to Bowness and the Old England Hotel and its spa and pool. A quick swim, a pause to admire the view of Windermere from the water plus time in the steam, dry heat and ice rooms. Then it was back to our suite for a sleep. All this relaxing was exhausting. Or perhaps it was just our bodies telling us something?

We dressed smartly for dinner and made our way smartly to the bar for an aperitif. The bar was unstuffy and has an unusual walk-in wine cellar so guests can explore their ample and tempting collection. In the past I’ve felt a bit self-conscientious in similar hotels. Not here.  Here we felt at ease. It was like being with friends. We made our choices and treated ourselves for the recommended wine with our courses. Never done anything like that before; naughty but hopefully nice.

The dining room was spacious so we didn’t have to whisper for privacy or shout to be heard. And the meal was heavenly… Gilpin’s chef has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants previously so we knew we were in for some great flavours – Cumbrian rarebit soufflé, Celtic scallops, local pheasant, wild mallard – all mouthwatering. With wines to match, expertly poured and explained by sommelier Ziggy. We could have finished the evening with coffee and petit fours in the comfy lounge. Instead we climbed under our duvet and slept like logs!

We woke late, no little feet bothering us this morning. Breakfast was magnificent as expected and we were sad to check out. But for that shortest of breaks, the weight of the world was no longer on our shoulders and we floated off to the car park without a care, ready to face modern life once again.

 Alex McCoskrie is a freelance marketer specialising in tourism. Visit his website AMPM Professional Marketing and follow  him @AMProfMktg on Twitter

One of the highlights of this year was showing world-class bloggers Keith Jenkins,  of Velvet Escape and Simon Falvo of Avventurosa, around some of my favourite places in the Lake District. Here’s Keith’s account of that trip …

Imagine green rolling hills that stretch to the feet of massive, boulder-like mountains. In the valleys, tranquil, finger-like lakes extend for miles, their forested shores occasionally interrupted by quaint settlements, grassy meadows and striking patches of daffodils. Crystal-clear streams and waterfalls abound. In the fields, white-faced Herdwick sheep graze peacefully, seemingly smiling at everyone who passes by, whilst in the towns, visitors are welcomed by a friendly hello and a tip of the hat. This is the Lake District in the heart of Cumbria…

On my recent trip to Manchester, Zoë, who runs travel writing workshops in Cumbria and around the UK, kindly offered to take me and my good friend  Simon on a tour of the Lakes. Simon and I hopped onto a train for the 1.5 hour journey to Oxenholme (near the gateway to the Lake District), where we met Zoë. We were joined by Stewart Smith, a brilliant photographer, whom, like Zoë, has made the Lakes his home.

Zoë took us on a drive past the touristy towns of  Bowness (with its plethora of shops, cafés and restaurants) and  Windermere, where we made a quick stop at the lakeshore. We were immediately greeted by a bevy of cheeky swans. The sun shone brightly and everything seemed to gleam. Needless to say, the views across the lake were absolutely gorgeous.

We continued our tour along Windermere, passing the most beautiful trees, fields brimming with cheery daffodils and lovely Victorian cottages. Zoë slowed down each time we approached a clearing in the trees, providing us with splendid panoramas of the lakes and the hills. One thing that grabbed my attention was the ample use of slate in the buildings, bridges and fences. We made a brief stop at arguably one of the most famous slate buildings in Cumbria, the Bridge House in Ambleside (incidentally, an absolutely charming town).

Dancing daffodils

Our next stop was Rydal Mount where the famous poet William Wordsworth lived until his death in 1850. Wordsworth’s most famous poem, about ‘dancing daffodils’, was inspired by the landscapes of the Lake District. Rydal Mount is a gorgeous house, surrounded by stunning gardens, that’s lovingly maintained by the curators, Peter and Marianne.

A tour of the house and the gardens provides unique insights into the life of the Wordsworth family. We were really lucky to see Dora’s Field (a patch of land adjacent to the estate which was bought by the poet as a gift to his daughter Dora) in full bloom – William Wordsworth and his wife Mary planted the field with daffodils in memory of Dora who died in 1847.

The Velvet Escape bench at Rydal Water

The next stop on our tour was my personal highlight – a visit to the Velvet Escape Bench overlooking Rydal Water. The bench can be accessed by crossing a stone bridge (opposite the entrance to Rydal Mount) and taking a right turn after the bridge. We parked the car and walked the rest of the way along a path that led us uphill. What awaited us on the other side of the hill was… the bench… and a simply mesmerising view of Rydal Water.

We continued our drive along Rydal Water to the village of  Grasmere, where we strolled around the lovely shops (my favourite was the little Herdy store with its cute, Herdwick sheep inspired souvenirs), checked out Grasmere’s famous Gingerbread Shop and visited St. Oswold’s Church and the adjacent Wordsworth graves.  Grasmere is also home to another Wordsworth attraction: Dove Cottage where the poet lived during his early years in the Lake District.

Our tour ended with a lovely drive back to our address for the night in Ambleside: the beautiful Waterhead Hotel. My room (#11) was simply gorgeous. A little doggy greeted me as I stepped into the room (a fab touch!). The view of Windermere from my window was impressive, as were the comforts in the room and the bathroom.

That evening, Simon and I sat down to a lovely dinner at The Bay restaurant in the hotel. As the sun set, casting a glorious glow across the lake and the hills, we tucked into a superb meal comprising chicken liver parfait and lamb cutlets, and accompanied by a divine Pinotage. A fitting end to a truly unforgettable day.

We didn’t get to see all that the Lake District has to offer (like the Beatrix Potter Gallery, some of the other spectacular lakes like Derwent Water and Wastwater, the famed ruins of Furness Abbey or the market town of Keswick) but you’ll need at least a few more days to cover the sights. As we sipped on that delicious Pinotage, Simon and I promised ourselves that we would return one day soon to once again experience the splendour of the Lake District.

A big thank you goes to Zoë of  Quirky Traveller and Kris of the English Lakes Hotels (or @EnglishLakes on Twitter) for hosting us.

This article originally appeared in Keith’s Velvet Escape blog.

If you love the idea of being eco-friendly and close to nature, but not the thought of struggling with tent-poles and tent-pegs, then one of Cumbria’s Quirky Camping Alternatives could be just the ticket.  Picture yourself awakening in magnificent countryside,  add in a few pampers such as a proper bed and a wood-burning stove; maybe an organic breakfast or a fire circle to star gaze from in the evening and it’s easy to see why tipis, yurts, camping pods and shepherds huts are becoming as sought after as 5* hotels.

There is certainly something rather mystical and captivating about a Mongolian Yurt nestled in one of Cumbria’s idyllic locations. You’ll find them amongst fields of bluebells, in natural woodlands and even by a babbling brook. A great base from which to explore the Lake District’s many attractions.

It’s not all back to basic either, if you are looking for a little glamour camping, then you won’t be disappointed. Romantic lighting and good quality bedding, coupled with Moroccan rugs and a wood burning stove are perfect if you fancy a little pampering and make a superb Honeymoon or Anniversary retreat.

Possibly the most basic of all the camping alternatives are eco-wooden huts, known as Camping Pods and Wooden Wigwams, they have become hugely popular in Cumbria. You literally just turn up with everything you need for camping minus the tent. Static Bell tents kitted out with sofas and wood-burners are another great way to have the best of both worlds – the freedom of canvas and the luxury of a few home comforts.

Traditional Tipis may not be native to Cumbria, but they are a fantastic way to fire the imagination of any child and add a quirky twist to a holiday with family or friends.

Many traditional Cumbrian farm barns have been given a new lease of life with their conversion into Camping Barns, offering a dry but basic, alternative to backpacking.

One of the most recent camping alternatives in Cumbria offers an interesting mix of romance and back to nature. Traditional Shepherd’s Huts are being refurbished with good quality beds and proper bedding and fitted with mini wood-burners to make them snug. Yet, their rural locations make them perfect for sitting outdoors on to enjoy the stars.

Quirky Camping Alternatives are a fantastic way to combine minimal impact tourism, whilst lapping up a little camping luxury and enjoying the breathtaking scenery of Cumbria.

Elspeth Wrigley writes for Discover Cumbria – an online travel guide, packed full of personal recommendations.

We have had a delightful Italian girl staying with us; she lives in Milan and her father is a friend of travel blogger Simon Falvo.  Gea came to England to improve her English and to see some of the Lake District. It has been quite a culture shock for her, especially staying in the small, unassuming town of Carnforth which really couldn’t be more different from the vibrant, sophisticated, fashionable city of Milan!  Here is Gea’s account of her first week:

‘It’s a little bit strange staying 24 hours a day without your family, saying  “good night” and “good morning” to  people that aren’t your mother or your brother; and “the new family” look at you early in the morning and when you have just had a shower, without any kind of make-up on. But I think that is the most important experience of my travel.

Photo by Gea Spada

Certainly I miss Italy but I have tried as well as I could not to think about it and concentrate on all the beautiful things that are here. I’m so tired… not only because of the constant trips to the cities around like Carlisle, Kendal and in the village like Hawkshead, also because my English isn’t good enough! And now it’s more or less one week that I have spoken only that.

Photo by Gea Spada

But the places that I like most are the lakes of the Lake District: they’re so quiet and tranquil.  Some I have seen are Windermere, Ullswater, Coniston and Eskthwaite. If you look just from the window’s car you’ll start thinking about you, your life, everything. There is always someone who is sailing, also a lot of trees and a lot of ducks!

It’s so different here from Milan: no noisy cars or lights in the streets all the night and a thing that is truly different is the school, where I’ve been for one day with Alex. All the students have to wear a uniform and they change class every lesson; do you believe it? However I liked the school: there was a big field where all the boys were playing football and strangely there was a beautiful sun.

The absolutely best thing ever is cooking an Italian pasta for your English family, that has no price! And tomorrow … ice-cream.’

Getting two teenage boys to make a loaf of bread may not sound like the most obvious plus from a weekend in Cumbria but it was definitely something different.  We’ve stayed in many different types of self-catering accommodation over the years, ranging from spartan (a cubby hole in Sussex) via humongous (a villa in Menorca) to inspirationally restored (an apartment in Jerez) but none had their own breadmaker with a packet of mix to tempt even the most unadventurous baker to have a go…

My son, his mate and I were having a short weekend break at the Salutation Yard, a new complex of tastefully done-out self-catering cottages in the little village of Skelton, Cumbria.  This charming area is far less well-known than the Lake District and is on the edge of the Eden Valley to the west of Penrith.  It’s a perfect escape from usual tourist hot-spots in the region and has a tranquility that is most beguiling.  Rather quirkily, East Byre, the largest of the 3 cottages, used to be a cow byre and hayloft and some original features still survive.  We had a choice of 3 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms; needless to say Mum got the biggest one!

The kitchen has a fab cooker and is incredibly well-stocked.  There was a welcome pack of goodies including a box of chocolates & a bottle of wine -and the bread mix of course.  My son wanted to know why our home wasn’t like this and could we have a big flat screen TV please?

There’s plenty to do nearby though you do need a car for most  of the sights.  We drove to the pretty little village of Greystoke with its Castle famous for its links to the Tarzan story.  After stocking up with a few more provisions in the local newsagent’s, we had a wander round. I love these old Cumbrian villages with their quaint houses, old pubs and lichen-covered walls.  We saw a very quirky sight on the green – a scarecrow sitting on a rusty old bike complete with helmet.  The village is on the Coast to Coast Cycle Route and the Greystoke Cycle Cafe caters for cyclists and travellers in a delightfully quirky old farmhouse.  We had a drink in the garden overlooking the castle, some willow-weave hens and some very tired cyclists.

In the afternoon I wanted to do some writing so the boys went off on a reccie of the village.  It’s got a pub which apparently serves decent food, and a Post Office which was closed, plus a Bowling Green.  On their return, they got out the old badminton racquets and played in courtyard for ages.  Hearing them laughing and shouting as they leapt about was just great; good to get away from it all now and again …

The boys had a go at making the bread and then, after dinner, (pizza, salad and cake – no culinary effort for any of us on holiday!) we found a big box of games for us to play with – Monopoly brought back memories from long ago.  The smell of baking bread wafted around the comfy lounge as we watched TV.  Then it was bedtime and those superduper bathrooms and lovely big beds.

It’s a while since I’ve woken up to the sound of  church bells on a Sunday and the calling of the swifts – or were they Swallows … or maybe Amazons.  We had a lazy morning with their excellent homemade bread, pancakes and cereals.  I’d got a day’s outings planned – a visit to Hutton in the Forest, an ancient house in large grounds nearby, then on to High Head Sculpture Park BUT … the boys said they just wanted to stay at the cottage, have another wander round the village and play badminton.  So … that’s what we did. After the walk I read a book whilst they played in the yard until mid-afternoon when it was time to return to reality.

Jane & Duncan Hodkinson own Salutation Yard, part of Sojourn North self-catering accommodation and have combined their love of restoring properties with wonderful hospitality and the ability to create comfortably luxurious places to stay.  Quirky touches are found in all their properties – in Easy Byre my son thought the sea view paintings were ‘cool’ and I fell for the pottery ducks.  Many thanks for them for a lovely break – highly recommended for a true get-away the Cumbria countryside.

It was the quacking that woke me up … and pulling back the curtains I found a handful of ducks chuntering around on the grass outside the bedroom.  Looking up, it was the view that really caught my attention. Lake Windermere spread out her long arms to embrace flirty yachts, wooded banks and distant fells.

I’d arrived the previous afternoon and had plenty of time to look round the hotel.  It is so wonderfully quirky … in every room, in every corner, hidden in a little nook, are the most wonderful treasures. Coming in through the main entrance, your eye is immediately drawn to a large wooden sculpture of two glowing deer that seem to be anticipating your arrival.

A glint from above and there’s the most magnificent Venetian chandelier; Murano glass glitters with fruit drops that look good enough to eat. This huge piece was apparently shipped over piece by piece by the owner who fell in love with it in Venice and had to have it for this hotel.  It is so unexpected and that is what makes this hotel really special …

People often ask me what Quirky Travel is all about; well this place sums it up. It’s friendly, personal, full of unusual pieces, great location, excellent service, comfortable and unpretentious, satisfies the senses and has an inspirational quotient that is hard to put into words.  Areas of the hotel have been beautifully redecorated … others have an appealing ‘shabby chic’ look that may well be gone in the next phase of modernisation.  Some other things that caught my eye during my stay:

• a huge urn that would have looked at home in an ancient Roman Villa
• a tiny Japanese figure incongruously placed in an enormous fireplace
• a life-size statue holding a lamp with definite Baroque overtones
• an ornately carved wooden chair that should have been in a baronial hall

… and so much more.  Jonathan Allan, the friendly and very helpful General Manager, joined me in the Griffin Bar (dedicated to a local writer called Harry Griffin) and shared some wonderful tales of the owner’s mother, Ann Richardson, who had indulged her passion for the unusual and sometimes plain bonkers artefacts.  She has bestowed this place with a legacy that ensures it stands out amongst the very many quality establishments in the Lake District with an air of decorous quirkiness …

I’d been invited to one of Beech Hill’s well-known Gourmet & Wine Tasting Nights – and what a fabulous evening it was.  We were greeted with dainty canapes and champagne, then led to our table in the main restaurant where Paul Collins, a Sommellier from the hotel’s wine merchants, kept us entertained with tasting notes on each wine.  The food was excellent and the drinks beautifully complemented the food.   I was VERY glad I was staying overnight and could enjoy it all and not worry about driving home.

After breakfast the next morning I sat in one of the huge sofas as the Royal Windermere Yacht Club put on a great display of racing in front of the huge verandah.  It was so relaxing I didn’t really want to move … but I’d arranged to meet Jonathan to have a look at the newest addition to the hotel; High Biggin Luxury Holiday Home.  This used to be quirky Mrs Richardson’s home and it’s been beautifully renovated to the highest spec. The views are wonderful and again the unusual touches abound – Venetian masks hanging from mirrors, huge paintings and a little verandah for sunset cocktails … plus a piano just waiting for someone to release their inner Chopin.

Many thanks to the quirkilicious Beech Hill Hotel for a delightful weekend – I look forward to my next visit