Quirky Traveller's Tales

“OK – I’ve been on a ferry across lovely Windermere, had a drink in the Old Dungeon Ghyll, wandered in Wordsworth’s footsteps around Grasmere, gone over the Honister Pass to beautiful Buttermere and seen the most of the main sights in the Lake District.  Now what?”

Cumbria is one of Britain’s biggest counties and there are plenty of intriguing places to explore when you have done the major attractions.  The Lake District can get very busy at any time of year so I recommend getting off the beaten track to explore lesser-known parts of Cumbria.  Unspoilt, rich in natural beauty and ancient history you’ll find charming villages, friendly pubs and plenty to see and do.  Here are four of my favourite places in the south, east, north and west of the county.

Arnside

This little town in the south of Cumbria has a peaceful air about it where time seems to stand slow down and all is right with the world. Avocet, oystercatchers and the shoveler duck are a few of the birds you may spot as you wander along the sandy shoreline, overlooking the tidal waters of Morecambe Bay.  A relatively short walk takes you to the top of  ‘Arnside Knott’, with superb views over to the Lake District fells and out across Bay to the Irish Sea. There’s a viaduct across River Kent transporting rail passengers over to Grange and up the west coast  Nearby places of interest include RSPB Leighton Moss, Levens Hall and the grounds of Dallam Tower with its ancient deer park.   In the evening treat yourself to excellent fish and chips from Arnside Chip Shop, grab a waterfront seat and watch the sun setting over this tranquil scene.

Ravenglass

This sleepy little village on Cumbria’s west coast was known as Glannaventa in Roman times. The harbour served as a supply post in the 1^st century AD and you can still see the remains of the old Roman Bathhouse nearby.  Three rivers, the Esk, Mite and Irt, flow into the estuary so take time out to enjoy the view and listen to the clanking of the halyards on the yachts dotted around the water.  The Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway (15” gauge) takes just 40 minutes to trundle up into the impressive Cumbrian fells in Eskdale.   Ravenglass Station Café serves tasty snacks and you can get a decent pint at the Ratty Arms. Quirky Muncaster Castle, home to the original Tom Fool, is not far and if you’re there mid-afternoon you may see the herons flocking into the estate trees for their daily feeding session.

Silloth-on-Solway

Overlooking the Solway Firth and the lowlands of Scotland, about 20 miles from Carlisle, this now-isolated little town was once a thriving Victorian seaside.   With stunning views across the water and excellent fishing and invigorating air, it attracts visitors who take pleasure in nature and the great outdoors. The town’s largest annual event is Solfest The Solway Music Festival, Cumbria’s biggest four day live music festival.  Not far from Silloth is Bowness-0n-solway and Banks,  the end (or beginning) of Hadrian’s Wall with its little viewing hut with a mosaic celebrating not only its Roman history but also the plentiful bird-life to be all year round. There’s a micro-brewery, a popular golf course and other holiday attractions but its main appeal is a faded gentility and other-worldly atmosphere, far from the tourist hordes.

Appleby-in-Westmorland

A perfect combination of scenic and historic attraction, Appleby has it all.  The River Eden flows through the town, providing the focal point for one of Cumbria’s most spectacular events – the Appleby Horse Fair.  Since 1685 Romany families have travelled from all over Britain to meet up with old friends, trade horse and provide a unique spectacle as they wash their ponies in the river.  Appleby Castle dominates this pretty market town and was home to a very remarkable woman. Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676) , builder of castles and benefactor to many local people, is buried here and the town is on the route of Lady Anne’s Way.  Stock up on scrumptious picnic fare at Appleby Bakery and take time to explore the idyllic Eden Valley.

So, whether you’re visiting in the height of summer or in one of the quieter seasons, take time to explore more of Cumbria and search out a few of these special places …

A version of this article appeared on Visit Britain Superblog 

With his hands clutching his long, flowing coat tightly around him, Sir William Hillary (1771-1841) stands high above Douglas Harbour, ready to face everything the weather can throw at him.  As founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution he was well aware of the changeable  meteorological temperament of his home, the Isle of Man.  The weather can shift from clear blues skies, to torrential rain and back again in an afternoon – which adds to this island’s unpredictable charm.  ’Tis said that the ancient sea god Manannan Mac Lir lays his cloak of cloud across his isle to protect it from invaders – but modern-day islanders welcome visitors who come in peace any day. …

Floating in the Irish Sea about 60 miles off the Lancashire – Cumbria coast, en route to the United States, this tiny island has an ancient history that belies its size.  Norse rulers established a system of self-government over a thousand years ago and the Tynwald is still in power today.  The islanders enjoy a laid-back approach to life akin to their Gaelic neighbours in nearby Ireland and the Manx phrase traa dy-liooar is similar to mañana in Spain.

With so many attractions for people of all ages, a weekend is not nearly long enough.  I visited the island as a child and chose to return on a blog trip when I won ‘Britain’s Best Travel Blogger 2011′.  Here are my 7 quirky things to do on the Isle of Man.

1.  Spot the Isle of Man icons

There are two very famous symbols of the Isle of Man - the Manx Cat and the Legs of Man.  The cat is ‘a breed of domestic cat with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail.  Manx cats are prized as skilled hunters, and thus have often been sought by farmers with rodent problems and been a preferred ship’s cat. They are said to be social, tame and active. An old local term for the cats on their home island is stubbin.’ (Wikipedia). You may not see a real Manx cat but there are plenty of them in souvenir shops.

The Legs of Man symbol depicts three legs, said to represent the wheels of the sun. This is known as a Triskelion and is also the symbol of Sicily. Its oldest representation is on the 12^th Century Manx Sword of State. My favourite depiction of this quirky symbol is the sculpture that greets you as you come out of the Airport.  See how many representations you can find during your stay – you’ll soon lose count!

2.   View Douglas Harbour from the Victorian Camera Obscura

One of the quirky legacies the Victorians left us is the Camera Obscura. In the days before TVs, cinema and the internet, these optical lenses were the latest technology and must have seemed quite magical. The Great Union Camera Obscura on the Isle of Man was purpose-built for the tourists rather than the more common astronomical use.  Even today, with all our amazing technology there is something awe-inspiring about viewing Douglas harbour and the surrounding scenery through the upturned mirror. You can get a glimpse of Observatory building in the photo of Sir Hillary above. Check opening times and the weather; If the flag is flying it’s open.

3.  Get a taste of the island with Manx Kippers

When I was a child we used to get the ferry to Douglas and Dad would head straight for the fish-mongers for his favourite treat – Manx kippers.  Traditionally herring fillets, caught locally, are smoked over oak chips in old smoke houses.  The best place to buy these is in Peel, on the island’s west coast.  The smell of smoking fish wafts all over this quaint harbour town so it’s not difficult to find the Peel Kipper House – just follow your nose. If you’re really taken with this local food, you can get a huge kipper bun at the harbour fish van – however, that was too much of a good thing for me … Dominating the town is Peel Castle, an evocative reminder of the land’s battle with invaders.  Whilst you’re in Peel make sure you visit the excellent House of Manannan which has a really interesting interactive history of the island.

4.  Discover the enormous Basking Shark

Basking shark – photo c/o boatrips-isleofman.com

Basking sharks, the world’s second largest fish visits these waters between May and August and come very close to land the plankton which floats on the water’s surface when it isn’t windy.  You’ve got a good chance of seeing them around Peel, Port Erin or Niarbyl.  If you want a better view there are plenty of boat trips. (I was supposed to go out on the good ship Pegasus on my last visit but the sea was too rough – another reason to go back.)  As well as basking sharks you may spot seals and a huge variety of sea birds including the funky puffin.

5.  Get a sensory history lesson in Castle Rushen

Castletown was originally the island’s capital and Castle Rushen is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe.  Norse kings fortified this strategic site guarding the entrance to the delightfully named Silverburn River.  Its impressive limestone walls overlook the little port and Nautical Museum and the castle can be seen for miles around.   Its courthouse is still in use and there are regular events throughout the season to entertain and attract visitors.  Inside there are interactive displays and evocative sights, sounds and even smells from centuries past.  The dining room recreates a banquet from medieval times with some very dodgy looking characters presiding over the table.  (For an even quirkier experience if you time it right, go across the road to the Old House of Keys where, for an hour or so, you can become a ‘member of the island’s parliament’ and ‘vote’ in a debate.)

6.  Step back in time at Cregneash Folk Museum

Heading south west towards the Calf of Man, a tiny rocky outcrop separated from the mainland by The Sound you pass a sign to Cregneash National Folk Museum.  Take time to stop and wander around this ‘living museum’.  The tiny thatched whitewashed cottages are still inhabited and on the working farm demonstrations of traditional crafts such as weaving, black-smithing and carpentry are given.  Sea birds swoop overhead, crazy-faced Loaghtan sheep bleat and baa and the delicious smell of home cooking drifts out from the Village Tea Room.  Step into simple St Peter’sChurch, one of many dotted around the island, and take time to embrace the tranquility its cool interior offers.

 7.  Pay homage to ‘Lady Isabella’

 No visit to the Isle of Man is complete without a trip to Great Laxey Wheel, named ‘Lady Isabella’  after Lieutenant Governor Hope’s wife.  Built in 1854, the world’s largest working water wheel has an impressive beauty that belies its industrial heritage.  It has a diameter of 72ft and a circumference of 227ft. It used to pump up to 250 gallons of water a minute from the nearby Laxey mines. These mines produced zinc, lead, copper and silver until 1929.  If you’ve a head for heights you can climb to the top of the wheel and if you’re not claustrophobic go underground in the mines to get an idea of the tough working conditions of the past.  Very close by is the temrinus for the famous Snaefell Mountain Railway (one of many quirky ways of getting around this isle).  This is slow travel at its best – a leisurely 5-mile ascent past the Laxey Wheel, the TT Course at Bungalow Station and on to the often cloud-bedecked summit at 2,000 feet.

I stayed in the lovely seaside town on Port St Mary at the very quirky Aaron House with its Victorian interior and afternoon tea to rival the Ritz.  Getting to the Isle of Man is simple: Manx2 has regular flights from around the UK and there are regular ferries, fast and slow, from Heysham, Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.  Many thanks to Visit Isle of Man for a fascinating itinerary – they provide excellent tourist information on everything you need to know about the memorable and fascinating Isle of Man.

 Read more about the Isle of Man here

Ernest Hemingway wrote, “Nobody ever lives their life all the way up except bull-fighters.” In the same spirit, I believe that as life goes by so fast there are only a few moments that you really live to the max. Walking the Camino de Santiago, as opposed to bullfighting which is not for me, was one of those times where I felt truly alive. For a few days, weeks or months, I was able to extract myself from my day to day routine and focus on myself.

Camino Frances sign – photo c/o Follow the Camino

Lately, I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean de Pied to Pamplona with a company called Follow the Camino, which organises accommodation, meals, maps and heavenly luggage transfers. They have added a twist to the Camino that really attracted me and made my journey so much easier.  This twist was to link one of my favourite authors, Ernest Hemingway, to the Camino. The American author based his first and most celebrated novel ‘The Sun Also Rises’ during the Pamplona Festival, the San Fermin, which he used to attend regularly.

Bull-running Monument in Pamplona – photo by Владимир Шеляпин

The storyline follows a group of American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermín in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights. The setting was unique and memorable, showing the seedy café life in Paris, and the excitement of the Pamplona festival, with a middle section devoted to descriptions of a fishing trip in the Pyrenees and end sections in San Sebastian and Madrid.

Follow the Camino therefore launched a new walking holiday called the Camino Heming-Way where you walk in the footsteps of Jake and Bill, two of the main protagonists of the book, from Saint St Jean de Pied in France to Pamplona in Spain. It is undoubtedly one of the most scenic, challenging and rewarding of all the Camino routes and a unique journey through time and literature.

Vierge D’Orisson in French Pyrenees - photo c/o Follow the Camino

The Camino Operator booked me into charming 2-3* hotels along the Way, which was a very welcom comfort. The staff were simply lovely and so typically French and Spanish! I did not want to try walking the Camino without pre-booking hostels etc. Although this option might suit some, I find it difficult to cope with the stress of not knowing where I am sleeping and if I will find a dorm before arriving in a town. Not to mention the snoring, little levels of comforts and the smell… No, I was more than delighted to pay the tour operator services so I had my own room, bathroom and all I needed to rest and refresh after a hard day’s walk. And then was I ready for a few tapas and vino! I never had to use their 24/7 emergency phone, thank God! 

St Jean Pied de Port – photo c/o Follow the Camino

The route departs Saint Jean Pied de Port, a quaint French market village in the heart of the Pyrenee. There are lots of things to see including the ancient bridge, historic buildings, full of history and a lovely old Church for pilgrims. In only five days,  I crossed the Pyrenees (tough but so exhilarating having achieved it), experienced French gastronomy - think yummy cheese, locally-produced charcuterie and traditional baguette, discovered the legendary Basque country and finally arrived in beautiful Pamplona. En route I stayed in the small quiet village of Burguete, on the Irati River where the two friends (from the book) fished.

Hemingway’s house at Burguete – photo by Phillip Capper

In Pamplona, they treated me to a Heming-Way style city tour. Thanks to Mickel, our lovely Spanish guide I found the Cafe Iruna and had a drink beside Hemingway’s statue.  I also had the chance to try a special Hemingway favourite: trout stuffed with chorizo.  I recommend this tour to Hemingway enthusiasts and anyone looking for an alternative to the last 100km of the French Way, the most popular section. So why not follow this route and take the walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona?  And if you are able to make it for the San Fermin Festival in July, you’ll be able to celebrate this famous Festival in true Heming-Way style!

Hemingway at Cafe Iruna Pamplona  - photo c/o Follow the Camino

This post is brought to you by Follow the Camino, a world-wide leading tour operator specialising in organising walking, cycling and horse riding holidays along the Camino de Santiago since 2006.  They created a new approach to this ancestral pilgrimage, respecting its spirit and enhancing its values, whilst making it more accessible, enjoyable and achievable for all. Find out more about the Camino Heming-Way here.

Via de la Plata Santiago de Compostela – c/o Follow the Camino

If you like walking you will enjoy ‘Fell Wandering – Slow Travel at its best’ and also

It’s always a pleasure to hear from new writers and I’m delighted to feature Jo Evans with her very first blog post.  She explains how the sweet aroma of travel and the powerful memories it can evoke, inspired her to start her very own Aromatherapy business in the Lake District.

The sense of smell is truly an amazing thing. I have a very sensitive sense of smell, indeed I can’t walk through a perfume section of a department store without getting a headache. So what have I ended up training in? Aromatherapy! I find the whole subject fascinating, how essential oils can work with each other to create wonderful healing synergies. Many of us have strong memories related to smells and that made me think about the sweet aroma of travel that evokes such wonderful memories of the people and places I have come across around the world.

The exotic smell of coconut suntan lotion makes me think of our holiday villa on the Greek island of Lefkada.  The pagodas that surrounded the house and the pool were hung with large red and pink blooms which smelt heavenly in the evening. To sit there with a glass of wine relaxing after a hard day soaking up the sun, was absolute bliss.  You really know you are on holiday when you can close your eyes and smell that coconut aroma wafting on the warm breeze …

America is somewhere that springs to mind immediately. When I remember my trips there I can always smell the food. The mouth-watering pancakes and maple syrup; the sticky sweet smell of the theme parks with their abundance of snack stands and restaurants; the fresh fruits on show waiting to be turned into smoothies.

I can clearly remember two very distinctive aromas from a holiday in Cornwall. First, and predominantly, salt. The gorgeous salty air of harbours mixed with the smell of the days’ catch reminds of the wonderful strolls I have had there, as well as people-watching whilst sitting on a harbour wall with a refreshing ice cream. The other aroma, and it is one of my all-time favourites, is warm scones. I can’t resist that smell and my obsession with cream teas is a constant source of amusement to my husband! 

And what about the Lake District? Although I now live, here I wasn’t born and bred here. Before relocating I had been visiting the lakes for about 12 years and every time I made the journey north on the M6 I would look forward to the sight of the fells and, more importantly, the smell of the Lake District. I can only describe it as ‘wholesome’. There is a fresh, clean, natural smell to the Lakes that always makes me feel content, which is probably why I now live here.

I’ve spent a long time experimenting with aromatherapy blends that people can take with them when they’re travelling for an aromatic boost on the go. Headaches, tiredness and stress are often unfortunate side-effects of travelling, so I’ve come up with three blends to help with these issues. Lemongrass and Peppermint for headaches and muzzy heads, Lime and Mandarin for a pick me up and Lavender and Bergamot to help relax and unwind. I’ve put these blends into little Rollerballs to keep in your travel bag and I have to say that I don’t go anywhere now without at least one of them tucked in a pocket somewhere!

For further information on Aromatherapy and any of Jo’s products visit her website BespokeAroma. 

In the second of her stories for the World Travel Blogger series, Karen Guttridge discovers a VERY unusual taste sensation on the beautiful island of Cyprus.

On the southern mountain slopes outside the Cypriot  town of Limassol,  lies the village of Doros, where I’d heard talk of mushrooms. Sugared mushrooms.  

I arrived in the village via a slightly convoluted route. I’d intended to approach via the excellent road which hugs the impossibly blue expanse of the Kouris Dam, reputedly the home of Cyprus’ answer to the Loch Ness monster.  However, I’d become distracted by a bevy of quail skittering before my car and ended up passing the same village kafeneion three times. To their credit, the chaps sipping ouzo and coffee had downed tools and waved enthusiastically each time I drove past.

Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

I pulled up outside Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets where Katerina Christoforou is a lady determined to revive the old tradition of Glyka tou Koutaliou or spoon sweets.  As a child she used to spend hours watching her grandmother gather fruits from her garden which she then stewed and preserved for the winter in sugar syrup. Tiny tasters of these rich, sweet concoctions were served to guests on a spoon, accompanied by thick, strong Greek coffee.

“In the old days village housewives in Cyprus were forced to be inventive and thrifty and took pride in letting very little go to waste – even the peel of the fruit such as watermelon and oranges was used,” said Katerina. 

In the kitchen at Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

And what of the mushrooms? Katerina certainly likes to experiment. Her daughter Mary hastened to the kitchen to emerge with delicate plates glistening with sticky fare. A large mushroom sat proud amongst a scattering of pistachios and two strawberries. “ I like to push the boundaries,” explained Katerina, “ to create my glyka from the less expected sources”.  She certainly does. A wander over to scan the shelves revealed jars of sugar syrup-preserved walnuts (picked from the tree whilst still soft and green), rose petals, olives, prickly pear and even garlic. All excellent, apparently, for their health-boosting properties.

Cooking Pots at Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

Now to tackle that mushroom.  I didn’t know what to make of it. I normally eat my mushrooms savoury – and hot. The tiny fork cut through the thick flesh easily. I popped a smooth quarter into my mouth and began to chew.  The flavour was intense. Was that because of the sweet syrup? I’d no idea, but quickly pulled up my chair and focused on clearing my plate.  Absolutely delicious.

Katerina’s Sugared Mushrooms

As I ate, Katerina talked proudly of her success in the recent European business awards in Barcelona. “I was so proud. There I was, mingling with the chaps from Ikea …”

The Terrace at Katerinas’s

Karen Guttridge: fuelled by wanderlust and the odd cake, she likes nothing better than donning boots and rucksack, noseying around the UK and Europe and getting up to endless mischief.  Check out her blog Ladyhiker and find her on Face Book & Twitter@happy_rambler. You can read her article on Family Wine-making in Cyprus here.

Myriad stalls line both sides of Skipton High Street on Market Day, selling everything from home made jam, via chunky knits to Greek olives.  Whatever the weather the stallholders always seem to have a smile and a cheery greeting.  On both sides of the road, substantial, but not imposing, Victorian buildings jostle for space with a few older building and an occasional modern interloper in between.

Skipton Market and Holy Trinity Church

This quaint Yorkshire market town on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales is the ideal place to see modern-day rural England.  Skipton Castle testifies to the town’s ancient history.  Originally built in 1090, it was replaced by a sturdy stone castle to fend off attacks from the Scots further north. In 1310, Edward II granted the castle to Robert Clifford who ordered many improvements to the fortifications; he died in the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.  During the English Civil War the castle was the only Royalist stronghold in the north of England until December 1645.

Skipton Castle

Nearby, the 14^th Century Holy Trinity Church is the final resting place of Henry VIII’s niece, Lady Eleanor Brandon and there are also five Earls of Cumberland and an impressive memorial to 3^rd Earl, George Clifford.

The Woolly Sheep Inn

Sheep Street has lots of quirky little shops, boutiques and was the site of the old prison. Being on the tourist route, in an understated and genuine way, there are plenty of restaurants, pubs and cafes to quench thirst and tempt the palate.  A very popular and traditional pub is The Woolly Sheep with excellent choice of real ale and comfortable rooms.  One of my favourite places for a very unusual atmosphere is The Russian Tea Room – check out the window display of Russian dolls, costume and food.    Drop in to the pretty Three Sheep Tea Rooms for a great cup of Yorkshire tea and a bite to eat.

The Three Sheep Tea Rooms

Also on High Street is the Skipton Town Hall & Craven Museum.  When I visited recently there was an indoor market selling – I bought some brightly coloured wools for my latest knitting obsession!  My son got a Manchester City football pin and a couple of second hand DVDs – bargains galore here.  Upstairs is the fascinating little Museum showcasing artefacts from days gone by, including the very surprising hippopotamus skull, from the far-off days when they apparently roamed the surrounding countryside …

Indoor market wool stall

You can walk along historic The Leeds and Liverpool Canal, take a boat trip or just sit and watch the beautifully decorated barges, narrow boats and other craft drift slowly by.  The Canal Basin also has some great little shops in the converted warehouses.

Photo by LeedsLiverpoolCanal.co.uk

The Millenium Walk takes in a lot of the town as well as the Leeds Liverpool Canal.  It’s a great way to explore the industrial heritage of Skipton; originally a wool town, it went on to trade in  the more lucrative cotton industry and was the home of Silko Cotton.  My grandmother had hundreds of these brightly coloured reels in an ornate wooden sewing box in her front room.

So, next time you’re in the fair county of Yorkshire take time to visit Skipton – and see if you can find that hippo’s head …