Quirky Traveller's Tales

If you’ve been to Iceland you’ll understand the singer Björk.  Born and raised in Reykjavik, she epitomises this country’s quirky, eclectic energy.  Visitors on holiday can get a brief glimpse of Iceland’s natural attractions and history by doing The Golden Circle, including Gulfoss (Golden Waterfall), the geothermal filed of Haukadalur where Strokkur geyser erupts very few minutes and the UNESCO World Heritage site, Þingvellir National Park where the original Parliament met.  All this is can be done in a day trip from Reykjavik, Iceland’s historic and vibrant capital city.

In spite of a very changeable climate that Brits will feel at home in and those from warmer countries may find ‘challenging’, Reykjavik is one of the party capitals of Europe.  Lively techno and hard rock bars vie with cool cafes and trendy eateries.  But it’s the fascinating cultural scene, unusual architecture, every-changing seascapes and crisp, sparkling air that I loved.  Standing on The Square  one look at the unassuming, low level Alþing (Parliament House) tells you that this is a country that seems at ease with its identity and has no need to dominate. The white-walled Cathedral next door would not look out of place in a provincial town.  And that’s the secret of Reykjavik’s appeal – it’s small, accessible and utterly charming.

The best way to explore the city is on foot. In a few hours you can see all the main sights ‘downtown’ – we had a guide but it’s not difficult to navigate.  With the sea on one side and linear streets you can’t get too lost.  In front of the Tourist Information Centre on little Faxaflói Square we were shown a rather strange looking sculpture of tall concrete stakes with steam coming from the running water.  Apparently this represents the founding of the city when a Norwegian Viking settler farmed this land and called it ‘Reykjavik’ aka ‘steamy/smoky bay.’

At the nearby Landnamssyningin (Settlement Exhibition) I tried to imagine what ancient island life was like around 1000 AD from the remnants of a turf wall and some Viking objects.  Can’t say I succeeded but worth a try …  Much more appealing was the Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in House No 10 Aðalstræti,  said to be the oldest wooden house in centre of the city. As you can imagine, these houses are prone to fire and decay being so near the sea so it is amazing that any have survived.  There was an intriguing collection of pottery, jewellery, household utensils and clothes, all with a definite Icelandic twist in their creation and construction.

Shoppers are well catered for with a great mix of international names and very high quality local  brands.  In the city’s largest shopping centre, Kringlan (a few minutes’ drive from the heart of the city, you’ll find names like Karen Illen, Deisel, Next, Zara and Hugo Boss.  One of the most well-known local names is 66°North, created in 1926 to provide outdoor clothing to protect the fishermen and labourers from the extremes of Arctic weather. Now uber-fashionable, their garments combine practicality and contemporary design.  I got a very snug fleece that looks good and is very cosy on the Lake District fells in winter!  If you have time, just go off the main streets to discover quirky little shops selling all manner of tempting goodies.

Laugavegur is the main shopping street.  Woollen items are a favourite and the Hand-knitting Association of Iceland has a couple of shops in town.  Or you could try a quirky chocolate volcano on an iced cake from a bespoke chocolatier …

Heading towards busy Hafn (harbour) we could smell the fishing boats before we saw them.  Serious looking craft bedecked with industrial-strength nets were bobbing about near the ferries, a military vessel and other shipping that regularly sail around these chilly waters.

Looming over it all like some enormous honeycomb is the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre.  Home to the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra, this state-of-the-art building was only completed in 2011.  Music concerts, opera , art exhibitions and international conferences are held all year round  and there are a couple of shops as well as an excellent restaurant.  Eating a delicious lunch of fresh seafood and local dishes we had a breath-taking view of the harbour’s icy blue waters as the sun shimmered through the geometric windows.

This is a glimpse of a few of the highlights of Reykjavik’s attractions.  Look out for the next article on the city’s Art Museum and Culture House, lovely Lake Tjörnin, a boat trip to Viday Island,  a privileged glimpse inside the Höfði House, where Gorbachov and Reagan met for the Reykjavik summit and a visit to the Presidential Palace to meet the outgoing Icelandic President.

I travelled to Iceland courtesy of easyJet, now offering regular flights and holidays to quirkilicious Iceland, and stayed at the luxurious Hotel Borg, in the heart of the city on Parliament Square.

Read about my exciting experience of The Golden Circle here.

Italy has its iconic, must-see sites that are sure to feature on many peoples’ bucket lists. St Mark’s Square and the canals of Venice, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Rome’s Trevi Fountain and the Vatican, the rolling hills of Tuscany… I could go on.

However, all these breathtaking icons of Italian tourism have literally hundreds of books, thousands of web pages and millions of photographs dedicated to them. More importantly, they are places that many people have already visited. So in this article we give you five quirky things to do in Italy for an Italian holiday with a difference.  Here’s an unusual, eccentric Italy; a little bit weird but all the more wonderful for it.

Join in an Orange Fight

Many people have heard of La Tomatina that takes place in Bunol, Spain. But real tough guys don’t mess about with soft tomatoes. Oh no, real tough guys come to Italy for the Battle of the Oranges! This peculiar and slightly dangerous festival takes place in Ivrea, about 70 miles West of Milan and what makes a huge fight with oranges even weirder and at least twice as wonderful, is that the fruit doesn’t even grow locally and the oranges (about 250,000kg) are brought from the South!

Stay in a Shepherd’s Hut

The Vatican is a great place to visit if you don’t mind hours of queuing and jostling for position amongst the fervent crowds of tourists in the vain hope of getting a glimpse of the latest elderly man in white robes giving a little wave. If you prefer your holiday to be a touch more tranquil, how about getting out into the wilderness of Sardinia?

The Fiummendosa Valley is stunning, a cornucopia of colour and scents created by swathes of wild flowers, trees and herbs. After a little too much Italian wine I somehow ended up bedding down with a friend of a friend of a friend in his shepherd’s hut. I can’t recommend it enough, although neither the sensational feeling of freedom it brings nor the lungful after lungful of fresh country air made me immune to hangovers.

The hardy amongst you could attempt to scale Sardinia’s highest peak, Punta la Mamora, which has an elevation of almost 2,000m. We decided against it, choosing instead a gentle stroll in the foothills where we found an amazing restaurant which served up a fine, stodgy but very tasty wild boar stew.

Go “fishing” for sea urchins

In many of Italy’s coastal towns sea urchins are a hugely popular delicacy. We tried them in Sardinia and with a squeeze of lemon they are an unusual, refreshing delight. We even tried to catch our own haul but after a few abortive attempts that resulted in perforated fingertips we decided eating was more fun that fishing!

When we ate the yellowy, gooey sludge that was served as “sea urchin roe”, we were a little unsure. But following the “when in Rome…” adage we tucked in. It was only later when I researched how a spiny spherical creature could be turned into said splodge that I found out we had been eating sea urchin gonads. Oh well, they  very were tasty.

Take a walk along World War I trails

For those who prefer a good walk over prickly aquatic gustatory pleasures, the Italian Dolomites near the Austrian border are a superb option. You’ll more than likely have the magnificent Alpine views, fields of wild flowers and clear blue lakes to yourself, or at least only have to share them with the local birdlife.

Many of the trails through the pastures, woods and forests were created by soldiers during the First World War and there are tunnels built into the hills, as well as an informative open air museum.

Visit Umbria’s dying town

Umbria has so much to offer, from historic Assisi, the stunning Subasio Natural Park and culinary delights such as black truffles and arguably the country’s finest olive oils. But that’s all a bit passé for us. We prefer Civita di Bagnoregio, the Etruscan town that pre-dates Christ and today has a population barely in double figures. Perched precariously atop a small rock formation, erosion means it may not be around too much longer, so visit this strange, beautiful town now, before it crumbles completely …

As you can see, there are plenty of quirky things to do in Italy with plenty of hidden delights magnificently complementing the more popular tourist spots. So, for an Italian trip with a difference, get off the beaten track and, if you fancy it, try some of those sea urchin gonads!

This article is brought to you by Headwater Holidays, creators of a global range of tailor-made soft-adventure holiday experiences, specialising in self-guided walking and cycling holidays, luxury accommodation and good food .

You can find them on Face Book and on Twitter @Headwaterhols

On St George’s Day, April 23rd, I spent a magical time photographing Lake District daffodils, exploring an evocative old house that Wordsworth used to live in and discovering that sheep may safely graze in Dora’s Field. Spring is the perfect time of year to visit one of Britain’s favourite destinations. Here’s what I did over a few hours …

The drive from Carnforth to Grasmere is such a pleasure. I went up the A6 through the little market town of Milnthorpe, past the ancient topiary gardens at Levens Hall and on to the A591 past Kendal. As you dip down to the Crook roundabout you get to your first really good view of the Lake District fells. It always lifts my heart and reminds me why I live in this part of the world.  Then it was on towards Windermere, along the lakeshore, past the long, white frontage of the Low Wood Bay Hotel, beside peaceful Rydal Water and into historic Grasmere village with its lovely lake.

In spring the village blooms into life as a ‘host of golden daffodils’ made famous by local poet, William Wordsworth, seem to be permanently ‘fluttering and dancing in the breeze.’  My first stop was to pay a quick visit to the poet’s family grave in ancient St Oswald’s churchyard.  In the summer it is almost impossible to get close to what has become a shrine for visitors from around the world, but this time there was just a solitary American.  ”Which William is the right one?” he asked, looking over at two old tombstones with the same names … A couple of past-their-best daffodils sagged disconsolately in front of their champion’s simple stone.

He then wandered off to visit quaint Dove Cottage and I went into the Wordsworth Daffodil Garden.  Here many people have sponsored a personally engraved slate paving stone, a shrub, or a wild daffodil and there’s an air of peace and tranquility that the poet laureate would have very much appreciated.

Sitting on a wooden bench it was a joy to listen to the River Rothay burbling away under the stone bridge, the ducks quacking as they started house-building for their forthcoming families and the many birds singing their little hearts out in the spring sunshine.

Suddenly the sun disappeared. You may know the saying ‘Ne’er cast a clout till May is out’, which could refer to the month or the blossom.  Well, in Cumbria it’s best to be prepared all year round. As well as my sturdy walking boots and waterproof jacket I had decided to try out some thermals I’d been sent by Universal Textiles. Now, I’ll be honest here and say that for the past few years, I’ve been wearing an almost threadbare set that had belonged to my aunt, which probably boasted a tog-factor of 2. So I was very pleased to be sporting a set of beautifully soft white long-johns and vest (I know – not sexy but sooooo warm – and NO PHOTO!) keeping me cosy as it went decidedly cooler.  Apparently they are worn by the ‘World’s Most Travelled Man’ Fred Finn and what’s good enough for Fred …

Opposite St Olaf’s, next to the cottage of world-renowned Story-Teller Taffy Thomas, is the National Trust shop in an old house called Church Stile. I popped in to see Chris Shaw, who’s a mine of information on Grasmere and the surrounding area.   She suggested I go up the road to visit Allan Bank, one of the National Trust’s latest properties to open to the public, where I could enjoy the views and get a free cup of coffee.  After a quick look round the shop, picking up a few information leaflets, I walked through village and up the short hill to the large cream house overlooking the lake.

Allan Bank has a fascinating history; Wordsworth lived here, as did co-founder of the National Trust, Canon Rawnsley who left it to the Trust.  Badly burned in a fire in 2011, it was finally opened to the public in 2012.  The wonderful thing is, the NT have left it virtually undecorated but created unique spaces where children can play, artists can create and everyone can enjoy a unique atmosphere that seems to positively force visitors to slow down and relax.  Dave Almond explained some of the work being done at present – the gardens are being restored and the public are being consulted at all times to ensure Allan Bank doesn’t lose its special appeal.  The enormous Tweetcloud above the entrance hall fireplace sums up the feelings this charming place evokes.

The final stop of the day was Dora’s Field in nearby Rydal.  When Wordsworth’s daughter Dora died in 1847, the poet was devastated. He’d given her this plot of land near to his home, Rydal Mount, and in memory of her he planted thousands of daffodils - the tiny ones often found in woods and beside lakes.  Every spring they produce a glorious display.  And there, chomping away on stubby grass (and possibly the daffs) were a couple of other lakeland favourites, Herdwick Sheep.  These study animals are bred to survive the Cumbrian climate and high fells;  they have thick, dark, wiry wool and smiley white faces.

At the top of the field there’s an old bench and from here I caught a glimpse of one of my favourite lakes, Rydal Water, still visible through the skeletal trees. I sat there for a long time, just listening to the sheep grazing and the rustling of a myriad of bright yellow Lake District daffodils …

With his hands clutching his long, flowing coat tightly around him, Sir William Hillary (1771-1841) stands high above Douglas Harbour, ready to face everything the weather can throw at him.  As founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution he was well aware of the changeable  meteorological temperament of his home, the Isle of Man.  The weather can shift from clear blues skies, to torrential rain and back again in an afternoon – which adds to this island’s unpredictable charm.  ’Tis said that the ancient sea god Manannan Mac Lir lays his cloak of cloud across his isle to protect it from invaders – but modern-day islanders welcome visitors who come in peace any day. …

Floating in the Irish Sea about 60 miles off the Lancashire – Cumbria coast, en route to the United States, this tiny island has an ancient history that belies its size.  Norse rulers established a system of self-government over a thousand years ago and the Tynwald is still in power today.  The islanders enjoy a laid-back approach to life akin to their Gaelic neighbours in nearby Ireland and the Manx phrase traa dy-liooar is similar to mañana in Spain.

With so many attractions for people of all ages, a weekend is not nearly long enough.  I visited the island as a child and chose to return on a blog trip when I won ‘Britain’s Best Travel Blogger 2011′.  Here are my 7 quirky things to do on the Isle of Man.

1.  Spot the Isle of Man icons

There are two very famous symbols of the Isle of Man - the Manx Cat and the Legs of Man.  The cat is ‘a breed of domestic cat with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail.  Manx cats are prized as skilled hunters, and thus have often been sought by farmers with rodent problems and been a preferred ship’s cat. They are said to be social, tame and active. An old local term for the cats on their home island is stubbin.’ (Wikipedia). You may not see a real Manx cat but there are plenty of them in souvenir shops.

The Legs of Man symbol depicts three legs, said to represent the wheels of the sun. This is known as a Triskelion and is also the symbol of Sicily. Its oldest representation is on the 12^th Century Manx Sword of State. My favourite depiction of this quirky symbol is the sculpture that greets you as you come out of the Airport.  See how many representations you can find during your stay – you’ll soon lose count!

2.   View Douglas Harbour from the Victorian Camera Obscura

One of the quirky legacies the Victorians left us is the Camera Obscura. In the days before TVs, cinema and the internet, these optical lenses were the latest technology and must have seemed quite magical. The Great Union Camera Obscura on the Isle of Man was purpose-built for the tourists rather than the more common astronomical use.  Even today, with all our amazing technology there is something awe-inspiring about viewing Douglas harbour and the surrounding scenery through the upturned mirror. You can get a glimpse of Observatory building in the photo of Sir Hillary above. Check opening times and the weather; If the flag is flying it’s open.

3.  Get a taste of the island with Manx Kippers

When I was a child we used to get the ferry to Douglas and Dad would head straight for the fish-mongers for his favourite treat – Manx kippers.  Traditionally herring fillets, caught locally, are smoked over oak chips in old smoke houses.  The best place to buy these is in Peel, on the island’s west coast.  The smell of smoking fish wafts all over this quaint harbour town so it’s not difficult to find the Peel Kipper House – just follow your nose. If you’re really taken with this local food, you can get a huge kipper bun at the harbour fish van – however, that was too much of a good thing for me … Dominating the town is Peel Castle, an evocative reminder of the land’s battle with invaders.  Whilst you’re in Peel make sure you visit the excellent House of Manannan which has a really interesting interactive history of the island.

4.  Discover the enormous Basking Shark

Basking shark – photo c/o boatrips-isleofman.com

Basking sharks, the world’s second largest fish visits these waters between May and August and come very close to land the plankton which floats on the water’s surface when it isn’t windy.  You’ve got a good chance of seeing them around Peel, Port Erin or Niarbyl.  If you want a better view there are plenty of boat trips. (I was supposed to go out on the good ship Pegasus on my last visit but the sea was too rough – another reason to go back.)  As well as basking sharks you may spot seals and a huge variety of sea birds including the funky puffin.

5.  Get a sensory history lesson in Castle Rushen

Castletown was originally the island’s capital and Castle Rushen is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe.  Norse kings fortified this strategic site guarding the entrance to the delightfully named Silverburn River.  Its impressive limestone walls overlook the little port and Nautical Museum and the castle can be seen for miles around.   Its courthouse is still in use and there are regular events throughout the season to entertain and attract visitors.  Inside there are interactive displays and evocative sights, sounds and even smells from centuries past.  The dining room recreates a banquet from medieval times with some very dodgy looking characters presiding over the table.  (For an even quirkier experience if you time it right, go across the road to the Old House of Keys where, for an hour or so, you can become a ‘member of the island’s parliament’ and ‘vote’ in a debate.)

6.  Step back in time at Cregneash Folk Museum

Heading south west towards the Calf of Man, a tiny rocky outcrop separated from the mainland by The Sound you pass a sign to Cregneash National Folk Museum.  Take time to stop and wander around this ‘living museum’.  The tiny thatched whitewashed cottages are still inhabited and on the working farm demonstrations of traditional crafts such as weaving, black-smithing and carpentry are given.  Sea birds swoop overhead, crazy-faced Loaghtan sheep bleat and baa and the delicious smell of home cooking drifts out from the Village Tea Room.  Step into simple St Peter’sChurch, one of many dotted around the island, and take time to embrace the tranquility its cool interior offers.

 7.  Pay homage to ‘Lady Isabella’

 No visit to the Isle of Man is complete without a trip to Great Laxey Wheel, named ‘Lady Isabella’  after Lieutenant Governor Hope’s wife.  Built in 1854, the world’s largest working water wheel has an impressive beauty that belies its industrial heritage.  It has a diameter of 72ft and a circumference of 227ft. It used to pump up to 250 gallons of water a minute from the nearby Laxey mines. These mines produced zinc, lead, copper and silver until 1929.  If you’ve a head for heights you can climb to the top of the wheel and if you’re not claustrophobic go underground in the mines to get an idea of the tough working conditions of the past.  Very close by is the temrinus for the famous Snaefell Mountain Railway (one of many quirky ways of getting around this isle).  This is slow travel at its best – a leisurely 5-mile ascent past the Laxey Wheel, the TT Course at Bungalow Station and on to the often cloud-bedecked summit at 2,000 feet.

I stayed in the lovely seaside town on Port St Mary at the very quirky Aaron House with its Victorian interior and afternoon tea to rival the Ritz.  Getting to the Isle of Man is simple: Manx2 has regular flights from around the UK and there are regular ferries, fast and slow, from Heysham, Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.  Many thanks to Visit Isle of Man for a fascinating itinerary – they provide excellent tourist information on everything you need to know about the memorable and fascinating Isle of Man.

 Read more about the Isle of Man here

‘Is it not strange, this madness that has gripped us?’ asks Cornelius.

‘What madness?’ asks the painter.

‘Have you surrendered to the passion yet?’

The painter pauses. ‘It depends what passion you are talking about.’

‘This speculation on tulip bulbs …. Great fortunes have been made and lost. These new hybrids that they have been growing – they fetch the most astonishing prices.  Thousands of florins, if you know when to buy and sell..’ Cornelius’s voice rises with excitement; he too has greatly profited from this tulipomania.

‘Why, the Semper Augustus bulb – they are the most beautiful and the most valuable – one bulb sold last week for six fine horses, three oxheads of wine, a dozen sheep, two dozen silver goblets and a seascape by Esaias van de Velde!’

Taken from Deborah Moggach’s imaginative novel ‘Tulip Fever’, this extract sums up the emotions and financial risks that 17^th century Dutch merchants were subject to when the desire for this simple flower overtook the world.  On a visit to the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland you get an idea of why the beauty and variety of tulips enraptured so many.

Mondrian-like blocks of colour flashed by the window as I travelled to Keukenhof by coach from Amsterdam.  We were passing the famous Dutch bulb fields.  On arrival, the luscious scent of hyacinths hits you as you queue to get in – it’s a place of sensory pleasure even on a chilly spring day.  Keukenhof means ‘Kitchen Garden’; in the 15^th century, herbs were grown here for aristocratic Countess Jacoba van Beieren’s Castle .

Every autumn seven million spring flower bulbs are planted – not just tulips but crocuses, daffodils, narcissi, hyacinths and lilies. Covering more than 30 hectares with 15 kilometers of footpaths you need some good walking shoes and plenty of stamina to take in all the attractions.  In the Historical Garden you get a feel for the history of the place with its grey stone walls showcasing older varieties of plants as well as herbs and flowering trees.  Stroll down Beech Lane, designed around 1850; on either side the flower beds flow in scented grace,  tempting the visitor to pause for a moment to take in their natural beauty.  Modern day tulip fever takes over as people jostle to get the perfect photo.  It’s a photographer’s dream – impossible not to be seduced by the colour, artistry and sheer exhuberance of this spring tapestry.

Each year Keukenhof chooses a different country as the central theme for the park.  When I went (2012) it was ’Poland – Heart of Europe’  This was particularly significant as it’s an increasing market for Dutch flower bulbs and many Polish tourists now visit Holland.  The show highlighted key figures such as the astronomer Copernicus, scientists Marie Curie and Fahrenheit, Pope John Paul II and the composer Frédéric Chopin. One of the most popular displays was the floral mosaic of this brilliant pianist.

As well as the meticulously laid-out gardens there are 5 large pavilions hosting flower shows of azaleas, lilies, orchids, anthuriums, bromelliads and many other exotic plants.  The Willlem-Alexander Pavilion is the largest, housing magnificent daffodil and tulip displays and before the Gardens close, a grand finale –  the world’s largest Lily Show.

There are whackily creative displays of the florist’s craft in the Oranje Nassau Pavilion which change every two weeks. They also reflect the annual theme, so musical notes hung from the ceiling to celebrate Mozart and Copernicus was remembered with starry baubles.  Used to the more conservative atmsosphere of British Flower Shows, I loved the exhibition in the Beatrix Pavilion where haughty models bedecked with all manner of vibrant flowery garments posed with insouciant charm.

In a corner of the grounds is a huge wooden Windmill, given to the park in 1957.  From the top you can take photos of the surrounding bulb fields and you get a great view of Mill Square and the gardens.  When I was there, a lively brass band was delighting the audience with their musical antics.  It was so different from our somewhat reverential brass bands seen in public parks around the country, usually watched by old folk falling to sleep in fading deck-chairs.  In their patriotic bright orange jackets and mischievous smiles, these musicians encouraged the audience to dance and young tourists dared each other to have their photos taken with this crazy gang of Dutch fun.

Dotted around are unusual and thought-provoking sculptures.  Artists are given the opportunity to exhibit their work to an international audience and their locations are carefully thought out.  The Zocher Garden in the centre of the park has a tranquil lake with elegant swans, a trefoil fountain and huge stepping stones.  Much to everyone’s delight there were a group of ‘swimmers’ bobbing up beside the huge stepping stones – a very quirky sight!

There are plenty of places to eat and refresh yourself in the Keukenhof gardens – search out the delicious Dutch waffles with syrup.  Should you wish to indulge in your own tulip fever, souvenir shops are available, selling everything from tulip bedecked ties, bulbs of every imaginable hue and scent, table napkins and the wooden flowers if you’ve not got green fingers.

I travelled to Holland on the Stena Line ferry from Harwich and stayed in Amsterdam at the uber-cool Citizen M hotel courtesy of Laterooms.  I can recommend the Pocket Rough Guide to Amsterdam by Martin Dunford.  Thanks to iamsterdam for organising the coach trip with Viator. The Keukenhof Gardens are open from mid March until May – check their website here for further details.

Tulips: as Cornelius says, ‘Do they not remind us of the transitory nature of beauty?’ Visit Keukenhof in the spring before they fade away …

Read how World Travel Blogger Kate Harrison Whiteside moved from Broughton, Cumbria to Rossland, Canada and discovered a totally different way of life.

When we planned to exchange our Broughton-in-Furness Lake District fell views for Canada’s Rocky Mountain views from Calgary, Alberta, it seemed like a plan set in stone. Our urban future would be filled with hockey games, biking along city paths, eating at a buffet of international restaurants and weekend mountain getaways.  We didn’t expect to keep travelling west over the Rockies to the small Kootenay mountain resort of Rossland, BC, half way to Vancouver.

Rossland Town www.redresort.com

My first flight from Calgary to Rossland also did not go as planned. Low cloud over the Columbia River valley prevented landing. The gentleman next to me asked if I was visiting – and then said he knew my husband. His advice: ‘Stick with us. We’ve done this before.’ So, I did.  Another flight. Another town. A 4X4 rental.  And, a snowy drive in the darkness over the Kootenay’s infamous Salmo-Creston Pass. It was a real introduction to winter life in this never-ending series of mountain ranges.

 My husband picked me up and we drove straight up for 10 kilometers to Rossland’s Red Mountain Ski Resort – our ‘temporary’ home. A bear had walked past the patio during the week. I would hear lots of bear tales, see bear droppings, but, never have a real sighting – yet … 

Red Mountain Ski Resort by redresort.com

The winter days were blindingly bright as the sun bounced off fresh snow. Up at Red, the average snowfall is 650 centimeters, almost twice as much as in Rossland, only three miles away. Both get nearly 2000 hours of sunlight annually.  My lunch breaks evolved into cross country skiing, snowshoeing or walking breaks The light, air and trails were pristine – and it was quiet. The wind seldom shows itself. 

Skiing at Red Resort by redresort.com

Even when we moved into Rossland, I found myself tuned into the delightful quiet. It is especially silent on snowy days – six out of 10 people own a ski pass – as it becomes a ghost town.  When I left Canada, skiing was the winter sport of choice, and we bought cross-country skis shortly after landing. But, during my thirteen years in the UK, Canada had developed a new pastime. The outdoor shop walls were full of shiny, colourful and cleverly designed  - snowshoes. It is now my winter sport du jour: I can do it just about anywhere. This year we treated ourselves to a snow blower!  All part of Alpine life.

When walking downtown, I am constantly reminded of Rossland’s gold mining beginnings by the old-style storefronts, murals painted on building walls and posters for events at the Miners’ Hall.  Rossland’s 42 saloons, 17 law firms and four banks of the 1800s have been replaced with boutiques, a chocolatier’s, shoe shops, spas, an Italian grocery store, a Japanese tapas restaurant and cappuccino cafes. And, I frequent them all. It’s a perk of living in an Alpine tourist town.

Near the ski hill bus stop on Columbia Avenue stands the larger-than-life bronze statue in honour of the town’s famous miner, father of competitive skiing and originator of the annual winter festival – Olaus Jeldness. At this year’s 116^th annual carnival, revellers donned fake black moustaches in his honour. People talk about Canadian Olympic medal winners Nancy Green, Kerrin Lee-Gartner, and the other Canadian ski team members who have called Rossland home. It is unlikely I will join their ranks. But, every day when I am greeted by the stunning valley views, sunlight blasting off the tops, I feel like a gold medal winner!

Red Mountain view – photo by N.Henson www.redresort.com

It is funny how the best-laid plans take on a life of their own.  Our move from Broughton, Cumbria to Rossland, Canada is proof that Plan B CAN be better. The fact is, we are now Rosslanders and can’t imagine living anywhere else.

Kate Harrison Whiteside began professional life as a journalist, but fate took her down the freelancing path. Starting out as a print writer, she went in the direction of online content. Kate occasionally changes lanes, writing fiction instead of fact. She runs Key Advice from a room with a view in Rossland.  You can read her blog This Canadian Life, find her on Face Book and follow her on Twitter @thiscanadian