Quirky Traveller's Tales

With his hands clutching his long, flowing coat tightly around him, Sir William Hillary (1771-1841) stands high above Douglas Harbour, ready to face everything the weather can throw at him.  As founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution he was well aware of the changeable  meteorological temperament of his home, the Isle of Man.  The weather can shift from clear blues skies, to torrential rain and back again in an afternoon – which adds to this island’s unpredictable charm.  ’Tis said that the ancient sea god Manannan Mac Lir lays his cloak of cloud across his isle to protect it from invaders – but modern-day islanders welcome visitors who come in peace any day. …

Floating in the Irish Sea about 60 miles off the Lancashire – Cumbria coast, en route to the United States, this tiny island has an ancient history that belies its size.  Norse rulers established a system of self-government over a thousand years ago and the Tynwald is still in power today.  The islanders enjoy a laid-back approach to life akin to their Gaelic neighbours in nearby Ireland and the Manx phrase traa dy-liooar is similar to mañana in Spain.

With so many attractions for people of all ages, a weekend is not nearly long enough.  I visited the island as a child and chose to return on a blog trip when I won ‘Britain’s Best Travel Blogger 2011′.  Here are my 7 quirky things to do on the Isle of Man.

1.  Spot the Isle of Man icons

There are two very famous symbols of the Isle of Man - the Manx Cat and the Legs of Man.  The cat is ‘a breed of domestic cat with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail.  Manx cats are prized as skilled hunters, and thus have often been sought by farmers with rodent problems and been a preferred ship’s cat. They are said to be social, tame and active. An old local term for the cats on their home island is stubbin.’ (Wikipedia). You may not see a real Manx cat but there are plenty of them in souvenir shops.

The Legs of Man symbol depicts three legs, said to represent the wheels of the sun. This is known as a Triskelion and is also the symbol of Sicily. Its oldest representation is on the 12^th Century Manx Sword of State. My favourite depiction of this quirky symbol is the sculpture that greets you as you come out of the Airport.  See how many representations you can find during your stay – you’ll soon lose count!

2.   View Douglas Harbour from the Victorian Camera Obscura

One of the quirky legacies the Victorians left us is the Camera Obscura. In the days before TVs, cinema and the internet, these optical lenses were the latest technology and must have seemed quite magical. The Great Union Camera Obscura on the Isle of Man was purpose-built for the tourists rather than the more common astronomical use.  Even today, with all our amazing technology there is something awe-inspiring about viewing Douglas harbour and the surrounding scenery through the upturned mirror. You can get a glimpse of Observatory building in the photo of Sir Hillary above. Check opening times and the weather; If the flag is flying it’s open.

3.  Get a taste of the island with Manx Kippers

When I was a child we used to get the ferry to Douglas and Dad would head straight for the fish-mongers for his favourite treat – Manx kippers.  Traditionally herring fillets, caught locally, are smoked over oak chips in old smoke houses.  The best place to buy these is in Peel, on the island’s west coast.  The smell of smoking fish wafts all over this quaint harbour town so it’s not difficult to find the Peel Kipper House – just follow your nose. If you’re really taken with this local food, you can get a huge kipper bun at the harbour fish van – however, that was too much of a good thing for me … Dominating the town is Peel Castle, an evocative reminder of the land’s battle with invaders.  Whilst you’re in Peel make sure you visit the excellent House of Manannan which has a really interesting interactive history of the island.

4.  Discover the enormous Basking Shark

Basking shark – photo c/o boatrips-isleofman.com

Basking sharks, the world’s second largest fish visits these waters between May and August and come very close to land the plankton which floats on the water’s surface when it isn’t windy.  You’ve got a good chance of seeing them around Peel, Port Erin or Niarbyl.  If you want a better view there are plenty of boat trips. (I was supposed to go out on the good ship Pegasus on my last visit but the sea was too rough – another reason to go back.)  As well as basking sharks you may spot seals and a huge variety of sea birds including the funky puffin.

5.  Get a sensory history lesson in Castle Rushen

Castletown was originally the island’s capital and Castle Rushen is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe.  Norse kings fortified this strategic site guarding the entrance to the delightfully named Silverburn River.  Its impressive limestone walls overlook the little port and Nautical Museum and the castle can be seen for miles around.   Its courthouse is still in use and there are regular events throughout the season to entertain and attract visitors.  Inside there are interactive displays and evocative sights, sounds and even smells from centuries past.  The dining room recreates a banquet from medieval times with some very dodgy looking characters presiding over the table.  (For an even quirkier experience if you time it right, go across the road to the Old House of Keys where, for an hour or so, you can become a ‘member of the island’s parliament’ and ‘vote’ in a debate.)

6.  Step back in time at Cregneash Folk Museum

Heading south west towards the Calf of Man, a tiny rocky outcrop separated from the mainland by The Sound you pass a sign to Cregneash National Folk Museum.  Take time to stop and wander around this ‘living museum’.  The tiny thatched whitewashed cottages are still inhabited and on the working farm demonstrations of traditional crafts such as weaving, black-smithing and carpentry are given.  Sea birds swoop overhead, crazy-faced Loaghtan sheep bleat and baa and the delicious smell of home cooking drifts out from the Village Tea Room.  Step into simple St Peter’sChurch, one of many dotted around the island, and take time to embrace the tranquility its cool interior offers.

 7.  Pay homage to ‘Lady Isabella’

 No visit to the Isle of Man is complete without a trip to Great Laxey Wheel, named ‘Lady Isabella’  after Lieutenant Governor Hope’s wife.  Built in 1854, the world’s largest working water wheel has an impressive beauty that belies its industrial heritage.  It has a diameter of 72ft and a circumference of 227ft. It used to pump up to 250 gallons of water a minute from the nearby Laxey mines. These mines produced zinc, lead, copper and silver until 1929.  If you’ve a head for heights you can climb to the top of the wheel and if you’re not claustrophobic go underground in the mines to get an idea of the tough working conditions of the past.  Very close by is the temrinus for the famous Snaefell Mountain Railway (one of many quirky ways of getting around this isle).  This is slow travel at its best – a leisurely 5-mile ascent past the Laxey Wheel, the TT Course at Bungalow Station and on to the often cloud-bedecked summit at 2,000 feet.

I stayed in the lovely seaside town on Port St Mary at the very quirky Aaron House with its Victorian interior and afternoon tea to rival the Ritz.  Getting to the Isle of Man is simple: Manx2 has regular flights from around the UK and there are regular ferries, fast and slow, from Heysham, Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.  Many thanks to Visit Isle of Man for a fascinating itinerary – they provide excellent tourist information on everything you need to know about the memorable and fascinating Isle of Man.

 Read more about the Isle of Man here

With winter on its way out and summer fast approaching, many of us are starting to think about that long awaited holiday. For time-poor families, getting away from it all offers the perfect opportunity to reconnect with loved ones.

According to a recent Daily Mail article, a holiday really is good for you. Aside from the obvious benefits of sunshine and fresh air, we eat better on holiday, exercise more, laugh more and sleep better, so investing money in the right break for you and your family is important.  Holidays add to our general sense of wellbeing, but it’s also important that it’s relaxing. This means finding the getaway that suits our family’s needs.  Seasoned parents accustomed to travelling with the tots in tow know that picking the right venue for the yearly getaway is vital when holidaying with children, and ensuring that the whole family will have plenty to keep them entertained while they are away is the key to a fun filled, stress-free break.

Weather is also an important factor. While the UK is great when the sun is shining, the unpredictability of our climate is often a major turn off for families, especially those with young children and teenagers.  With this in mind, the Canary Islands continue to rank in the top five holiday destinations for families looking for a chilled out week in the sun.

 Tenerife, with a manageable average flight time of just over four hours, is a popular choice. The largest of the Canary Islands, Tenerife offers year-round sunshine, modern resorts and various opportunities for day-trips and sightseeing.  The island is famous for its unusual lunar-like landscape, and a trip to Teide National Park is not to be missed: a cable-car ascent to the top of Mount Teide provides spectacular views of the surrounding landscape and great photo opportunities for the family album.

Siam Park – Tenerife

Another attraction to add to your Tenerife hit-list is Siam Park Tenerife. This is Europe’s biggest water-park and offers something to entertain all ages, from tots to teens. There’s a wave pool which will keep the toddlers happy, scream-inducing rides and slides for those hard-to-please teenagers, and a mini-aquatic park just for the kids.

Siam Park is extremely popular so it’s wise to book your family tickets in advance to avoid disappointment and to get the best price – sites such as Attraction World enable you to pre-order tickets and have them sent straight to your email inbox. It’s fast and convenient and will save you time and money while you’re away.  There’s also the option of purchasing a Siam Park twin ticket which combines entrance to Siam Park and Loro Parque, another top Tenerife attraction.

But that’s just the start: there’s plenty more to see and do on the island for days away from the beach. Families looking for educational days out may wish to take a trip to the Pyramids of Güímar – six rectangular pyramid style structures which are thought to date back to the 19^th Century.  The Botanical Gardens, one of Spain’s oldest botanical gardens, is also well worth a look with over 3,000 specimens of the world’s most unusual plants and trees.

They say that families who ‘play together stay together’, and with the options of sun, sea and sightseeing, Tenerife and its attractions ticks all the right boxes  when it comes to family fun in the sun …

This article is brought to you by Attraction World.

Did you know Tenerife has one of the biggest Carnivals in the world? Every year thousands of people visit the island for a lengthy festival of craziness, colour, exhuberance and yes, quirkiness.  You can read about my magical day at Tenerife Carnival here.

In the second of her stories for the World Travel Blogger series, Karen Guttridge discovers a VERY unusual taste sensation on the beautiful island of Cyprus.

On the southern mountain slopes outside the Cypriot  town of Limassol,  lies the village of Doros, where I’d heard talk of mushrooms. Sugared mushrooms.  

I arrived in the village via a slightly convoluted route. I’d intended to approach via the excellent road which hugs the impossibly blue expanse of the Kouris Dam, reputedly the home of Cyprus’ answer to the Loch Ness monster.  However, I’d become distracted by a bevy of quail skittering before my car and ended up passing the same village kafeneion three times. To their credit, the chaps sipping ouzo and coffee had downed tools and waved enthusiastically each time I drove past.

Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

I pulled up outside Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets where Katerina Christoforou is a lady determined to revive the old tradition of Glyka tou Koutaliou or spoon sweets.  As a child she used to spend hours watching her grandmother gather fruits from her garden which she then stewed and preserved for the winter in sugar syrup. Tiny tasters of these rich, sweet concoctions were served to guests on a spoon, accompanied by thick, strong Greek coffee.

“In the old days village housewives in Cyprus were forced to be inventive and thrifty and took pride in letting very little go to waste – even the peel of the fruit such as watermelon and oranges was used,” said Katerina. 

In the kitchen at Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

And what of the mushrooms? Katerina certainly likes to experiment. Her daughter Mary hastened to the kitchen to emerge with delicate plates glistening with sticky fare. A large mushroom sat proud amongst a scattering of pistachios and two strawberries. “ I like to push the boundaries,” explained Katerina, “ to create my glyka from the less expected sources”.  She certainly does. A wander over to scan the shelves revealed jars of sugar syrup-preserved walnuts (picked from the tree whilst still soft and green), rose petals, olives, prickly pear and even garlic. All excellent, apparently, for their health-boosting properties.

Cooking Pots at Katerina’s Cyprus Sweets

Now to tackle that mushroom.  I didn’t know what to make of it. I normally eat my mushrooms savoury – and hot. The tiny fork cut through the thick flesh easily. I popped a smooth quarter into my mouth and began to chew.  The flavour was intense. Was that because of the sweet syrup? I’d no idea, but quickly pulled up my chair and focused on clearing my plate.  Absolutely delicious.

Katerina’s Sugared Mushrooms

As I ate, Katerina talked proudly of her success in the recent European business awards in Barcelona. “I was so proud. There I was, mingling with the chaps from Ikea …”

The Terrace at Katerinas’s

Karen Guttridge: fuelled by wanderlust and the odd cake, she likes nothing better than donning boots and rucksack, noseying around the UK and Europe and getting up to endless mischief.  Check out her blog Ladyhiker and find her on Face Book & Twitter@happy_rambler. You can read her article on Family Wine-making in Cyprus here.

In this fascinating article in the World Travel Blogger Series, Linda Wainwright tells how a 1990s film triggered a trip to one of America’s more out-of-the-way places. 

The movie “Message in a Bottle” inspired my interest in the Outer Banks of North Carolina and via subsequent reading of Nicholas Sparks, I realized that location is as much a character in his work as  any protagonist.  So what was so special about this skinny string of islands off the North Carolina coast?  During a trip to the USA, I decided to see for myself.  With a couple of free weeks, I flew to Raleigh Durham and drove to Nags Head, in the middle of the island chain. Sitting in my hotel room, an electrical storm raging overhead, disappointment set in. What I’d seen so far was nothing like the remote area I’d imagined. The main drag appeared to be tourist tat and surf shops. Was I, I wondered, a victim of Hollywood hype? 

By morning, the storms gone, I strolled the beach in peace, collecting shells, taking snaps and dreaming of living in one of those wooden houses with steps down to the white sand. In the afternoon I drove to Kitty Hawk, scene of man’s first flight, and the Wright Brothers’ Museum, and wondered at the dearth of equipment and excess of ambition which drove them.

The next day I crossed to Roanoke Island, where I began to appreciate the area’s complex history. It’s one of pirates, shipwrecks, and ghosts in an area known as The Graveyard of the Atlantic. Along its shores lie wrecks from the early pioneers, treasure ships, the American Civil War and from World War II. The name ‘Nag’s Head’ is said to come from the wreckers, who tied lamps to horses tramping the shoreline, fooling ships into thinking they were the lights of boats bobbing safely in habour, luring them to break up on the coast. But the biggest mystery of all is the Lost Colony. The first English settlers arrived in 1587, but when a supply ship returned three years later they had disappeared without trace, and no-one has ever discovered exactly what happened to them. There are theories, of course, but no proof.

Nag’s Head may have disappointed, but my mood lifted as I wandered south along the islands, and away from the busier spots. I explored beaches where fishermen lined up along the tideline; saw a lighthouse which was moved in its entirety some 2,900 feet when the coastline shifted; walking through woodland one day I came across a tiny, pretty graveyard, marked by picket fencing, discovering that it was a British war grave. Finally, at the southern tip of Hatteras Island I came to the point where the road ran out, and the only way to Okracoke, the next island, was by ferry, a larger version of the one which plies Lake Windermere in the Lake District, UK.

Landing on the thin sliver of 13.5 miles, where the infamous pirate Blackbeard met his death, I finally felt that sense of isolation and differentness apparent in Sparks’ books. Here was a small community, a mixture of locals proud of their history and a vibrant group of new-comers, artists, writers and folk seeking a simpler life.

I found dunes of white sand where turtles return to lay their eggs; another immaculate Commonwealth graveyard dating back to WW2; wild horses; more pirate history; an iconic lighthouse, and craft shops full of the handiwork of local potters, artists, photographers and writers.  I was so happy in Okracoke that I didn’t go on to the even quieter islands further south, and finally I understand why the area plays such an important role in Nicholas Sparks’ books – and they definitely qualify as “quirky.”

Linda Wainwright left the damp coast of North West England over 20 years ago and is currently based in the Canary Islands. She says that she’s “re-inventing” herself  for her “Third Age”, which includes indulging in writing and photography, passions she has had since junior school.  For more, visit her blog Island Momma’s New Life, find her on Face Book and follow on Twitter.

“Whoo – that’s the best meal I’ve had all holiday.” When a teenage boy tells a waitress that, you know something is very right.  When the main ingredient of that meal is a fish you’ve never heard of, in a foreign island far from home, then you know it is probably extraordinary.  But more of that later …

The climate, landscape and people help determine the cuisine of every region and the delicious food in Gran Canaria is the product of all that plus a unique eco-system.  This volcanic island off the west coast of Africa has succeeded in creating an appetising blend of Spanish, African, European, traditional and contemporary cuisine using the freshest and highest quality local ingredients.

Local fish include stone bass, sea bream,, combtooth blennies,  tuna, shark and the huge marlin; adventurous souls go out daily on fishing boats to do battle with these huge sea creatures.  Black Canarian pork is a real treat with rabbit and goat also found on island menus.  Other meat is imported, most especially for the tourist market.  Gran Canaria’s most treasured gastronomic secrets is the sheep and goats’ cheese produced in small quantities. Flor, Mediaflor and Guia cheeses hold the Protected Denomination of Origin label.  Possibly the most well-known are the tasty little Canarian potatoes.  Served in virtually every restaurant, most families have their own special potato recipes to bring out their lovely flavour.  Garlic is another favourite ingredient lending its distinctive essence to a wide variety of culinary delights.

During a week’s family holiday at the luxurious Holiday Club Resort at Sol Amadores my son, his best friend and I went on a fascinating tour into the heart of the island.  It was especially interesting as we were visiting places that were off the main tourist route so we got a sense of how the local live.  What surprised me most was the varied scenery and how every acre of vaguely fertile land is farmed in some way or other.   Large areas of the south-east west coast are used to grow Canary tomatoes, exported to Europe, along with magnificent varieties of peppers, cucumbers and onions. Even in the very harsh, barren areas prickly pears, aloes and various cacti are found, being used in very imaginative ways.

We stopped for lunch in the mountain village of Fontaneles at Restaurant Sibora.  In typically ‘rustic’ surroundings ie lots of ornate, highly carved wood, plenty of fading blue-tinted photos of island sights and some VERY quirky objects the use of which defeated us, we had a suberbly simple and delicious meal.  A starter of spiky peppery onion soup was followed by silky smooth goats’ cheese, delicate fish fritters and ‘Patatas Arrugadas’ and the restaurant’s red Mojo Picon, made with red peppers and garlic, complimenting the salty, dry potatoes most harmoniously.  

Here’s the recipe if you’d like to try it for yourself:

Canarian Patatas Arrugudas (wrinkled potatoes)

2lbs approx of small, clean potatoes (floury, older potatoes are fine)  2 tablespoons coarse sea salt

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with enough cold water in to cover and add the sea salt.  Bring to the boil and cook for 15-20 minutes till cooked and soft.  Pour off all the wasre then leave the potatoes to cool in the pan.  This is the most important part of the process – a layer of salt will encrust the potatoes.  Best served warm ideally with Mojo Picon or other tasty sauce.

*** Edit December 2012. Friend Liz who lives in Gran Canaria adds this to recipe (see Comments below): “I am not sure two spoons of salt is enough – I use a lot more! My local recipe says 250 gr salt for 1 kilo of potatoes. They only take as much salt as they want apparently and they never taste too salty.” Cheers Liz!

The main course was a simple dish of succulent falling-apart pieces of pork in a sweetly herby sauce (rosemary I think) and chunky, crispy chips.  The boys finished off with ice-cream and I had a crème caramel, as good as any I’ve ever eaten in Spain.  Clean plates all round.

In a nearby village we found a quirky general story selling an enormous range of local foods including cheeses, piquant cured sausages, flaky pastries including Bienmesabe, made with island almonds, lemon and cinnamon, densely scrumptious cakes, spicy sauces, flower-infused honey, fruit jams, red and white wines and the usual very sweet licqueurs that will be relegated to the back of the cupboard once you get home.  There was also a veritable pharmacy of aloe products all promising various health and beauty benefits.

In the VERY touristy resort of Puerto Rico it’s easy to find ‘English’ type food and not so easy to get find decent local food.  However, it was at Grill Costa Mar (opposite the Fishing Excursion stands in the Port area) that the boys declared their delight at the fishy dishes put before them.  This little gem of a restaurant serves supremely fresh fish straight off the nearby boats.  After smoked mackerel pate, mayonnaise and garlic bread pate we chose the specials – chunky white marlin, wahoo (tastes a bit like chicken – see photo above) and quite simply the best tuna steak I have ever eaten.  Accompanied by some citrusy Spanish white wine and crusty bread rolls it was a sublime meal.  It was the wahoo that produced the “whoo” from my son, perfectly summing up the delicious food on Gran Canaria!

We stayed at the luxurious Holiday Club Sol Amadores on Gran Canaria.  They are members of the Timeshare trade body Resort Development Organisation.  and their owners can stay in a wide variety of different properties around the world.

Close your eyes and think of Cyprus. Which words spring to mind? I’m sure that sunshine is there and possibly ancient history but how about making wine?  Travel writer Karen, aka Ladyhiker, discovers all about it in our next World Travel Blogger post.

The history of making wine on Cyprus is very old – down at the harbour in Paphos, the mosaics dating from the 3rd to the 5th century AD are brimming with scenes of viticulture. In the House of Dionysus is a splendid mosaic; during the God’s visit to Athens he was made welcome by a chap called Icarios and in return Dionysus showed Icarios how to cultivate wine.  Can’t get fairer than that.  However, wine making in Cyprus has mainly been a household enterprise for many years.

“It takes a bit of craziness to do what we’re doing” admit Akis and Marcos Zambartas. The father and son duo have launched a boutique winery in the tiny village of Agios Amvrosios in the mountains above Limassol. I visited at the end of October, just as the intense activities of harvesting, sorting and separating had come to a close. A tired yet thoroughly engaging Marcos flung open the door:  “Welcome. Come into my father’s house.”  We trooped through the lounge and study (what views!) to descend a staircase in the far corner where the rich, yeasty aroma hinted at what was to come.

A door was open and the sun flashed off the rows of steel tanks next to oak barrels stamped with “Zambartas FM”.  Marcos smiled “It’s not a radio station. Yet”

Outside, the machinery was taking a well-earned rest. This is where the handpicked grapes arrive in crates from the nearby fields for Akis and Marcos “plus a few willing friends” to sift out the best. The stems and stalks are separated and given to local shepherds in the area to feed their sheep. 

For Akis, it has been a labour of love over many years to discover and classify the grape varieties indigenous to Cyprus. Then there is the planting and the long wait for the vines to mature. Says Marcos:  “Vines are like children. You can’t expect too much of them until they are around 3-4 years old”

Time for a tasting.  First up was Xynisteri, a fruity white which induced such pleasure that I refused to play properly and spit between tastings. As I tend to choose red or white wine, I was keen to experiment and try the Rosé.  I also fancied a dabble with trying to detect aromas by sniffing deeply into my gently swirled glass. As luck would have it I’d been gathering pomegranates the previous day and devouring the seeds and I immediately recognised that same scent emanating from the wine. I was right. First time ever.

Picking up one of the reds, I reflected on this truly international bottle: an Italian bottle, sporting a French cork and Greek capsule with an English design produced by a Cypriot printer. Now that’s co-operation.  The wine was excellent …

And as I reluctantly prepared to leave – the question I had to ask: Can I tread grapes here? It’s on my bucket list. To stomp with bare feet and feel the juice burst through my toes. You too? Then you can. Just  head to Agios Amvrosios in late August when the fun part of making wine on Cyprus starts. See you there …

Karen Guttridge: fuelled by wanderlust and the odd cake, she likes nothing better than donning boots and rucksack, noseying around the UK and Europe and getting up to endless mischief.  Read her blog Ladyhiker and find her on Face Book & Twitter @happy_rambler