Ernest Hemingway wrote, “Nobody ever lives their life all the way up except bull-fighters” In the same spirit, I believe that as life goes by so fast there are only a few moments that you really live to the max. Walking the Camino de Santiago, as opposed to bullfighting which is not for me, was one of those times where I felt truly alive. For a few days, weeks or months, I was able to extract myself from my day to day routine and focus on myself.
Camino Frances sign – photo c/o Follow the Camino
Lately, I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean de Pied to Pamplona with a company called Follow the Camino, which organises accommodation, meals, maps and heavenly luggage transfers. They have added a twist to the Camino that really attracted me and made my journey so much easier. This twist was to link one of my favourite authors, Ernest Hemingway, to the Camino. The American author based his first and most celebrated novel The Sun Also Risesq during the Pamplona Festival, the San Fermin, which he used to attend regularly.
Bull-running Monument in Pamplona – photo by Владимир ШелÑпин
The storyline follows a group of American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San FermÃn in Pamplona to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights. The setting was unique and memorable, showing the seedy café life in Paris, and the excitement of the Pamplona festival, with a middle section devoted to descriptions of a fishing trip in the Pyrenees and end sections in San Sebastian and Madrid.
Follow the Camino therefore launched a new walking holiday called the Camino Heming-Way where you walk in the footsteps of Jake and Bill, two of the main protagonists of the book, from Saint St Jean de Pied in France to Pamplona in Spain. It is undoubtedly one of the most scenic, challenging and rewarding of all the Camino routes and a unique journey through time and literature.
Vierge D’Orisson in French Pyrenees – photo c/o Follow the Camino
The Camino Operator booked me into charming 2-3* hotels along the Way, which was a very welcom comfort. The staff were simply lovely and so typically French and Spanish! I did not want to try walking the Camino without pre-booking hostels etc. Although this option might suit some, I find it difficult to cope with the stress of not knowing where I am sleeping and if I will find a dorm before arriving in a town. Not to mention the snoring, little levels of comforts and the smell… No, I was more than delighted to pay the tour operator services so I had my own room, bathroom and all I needed to rest and refresh after a hard day’s walk. And then was I ready for a few tapas and vino! I never had to use their 24/7 emergency phone, thank God!
St Jean Pied de Port – photo c/o Follow the Camino
The route departs Saint Jean Pied de Port, a quaint French market village in the heart of the Pyrenee. There are lots of things to see including the ancient bridge, historic buildings, full of history and a lovely old Church for pilgrims. In only five days, I crossed the Pyrenees (tough but so exhilarating having achieved it), experienced French gastronomy – think yummy cheese, locally-produced charcuterie and traditional baguette, discovered the legendary Basque country and finally arrived in beautiful Pamplona. En route I stayed in the small quiet village of Burguete, on the Irati River where the two friends (from the book) fished.
Hemingway’s house at Burguete – photo by Phillip Capper
In Pamplona, they treated me to a Heming-Way style city tour. Thanks to Mickel, our lovely Spanish guide I found the Cafe Iruna and had a drink beside Hemingway’s statue. I also had the chance to try a special Hemingway favourite: trout stuffed with chorizo. I recommend this tour to Hemingway enthusiasts and anyone looking for an alternative to the last 100km of the French Way, the most popular section. So why not follow this route and take the walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona? And if you are able to make it for the San Fermin Festival in July, you’ll be able to celebrate this famous Festival in true Heming-Way style!
Hemingway at Cafe Iruna Pamplona – photo c/o Follow the Camino
This post is brought to you by Follow the Camino, a world-wide leading tour operator specialising in organising walking, cycling and horse riding holidays along the Camino de Santiago since 2006. They created a new approach to this ancestral pilgrimage, respecting its spirit and enhancing its values, whilst making it more accessible, enjoyable and achievable for all. Find out more about the Camino Heming-Way here.
Via de la Plata Santiago de Compostela – c/o Follow the Camino
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What an inspirational trip to make. I love the idea of walking in the footsteps of one of literature’s greats.
Great idea and inspirational account of the journey. It’s the stories of those that have walked these long distance routes, past and present, that bring the landscapes to life and continue to inspire others. Stunning pictures too!
So agree with you Alexandra. And this looks such a magical way to do this pilgrimage 🙂
Fantastic post – I adore anything that combines travel and literature!
Wonderful post, Zoe… I’m planning to go back there towards the end of the summer, and to do exactly this bit… 🙂 x
Excellent Jane – let me know what it’s like!
This sounds like a great way to take in that section – wish I had known about this when I walked this section last year – it would have provided a little more interest and intrigue for me. As it was it was still beautiful and we were fortunate to experience one of the best days over the Pyrenees for that time of year. Next time!
Hope you get the chance to do this stretch Catherine as it would certainly fit with your literary side of life 🙂
Call me old fashioned, but I doubt Hemingway would have had someone forward his bags on the Camino. Of course, Hemingway would have never done the Camino in the first place, because it’s so much more fun to stay drunk for days in Pamplona. I speak from experience of both walking the Camino Frances and being drunk for days in Pamplona. Not at the same time, though.
Comfort and convenience certainly didn’t seem to figure high on Hemingway’s list of priorities Tom1 No doubt you’ve got some tales to tell of your travels too, by the sound of it …